resetting emergency brake

merkurmadness

merkurmadness

Registered
my brother was changing brake pads on the back of his 94 mkviii and couldn't get the new pads to slide in.he tried a caliper press it wouldn't budge. it appeared that if I rotated the piston it seemed to retract he stated that the chiltons said nothing about that and I was messing up his caliper. I decided to post and find out what you guys do.:confused:
 
Burn the Chilton's book. :p

The rear caliper pistons screw back in allowing the new pads to fit. You can buy or rent a tool for this at most parts stores.

They are supposed to automatically adjust with functioning of the park brake.
 
I just bought the tool from Harbor Freight the other day. It was like $4.00.

It's a small square block with a 3/8in drive hole on each side. It has a different configuration on each side to fit different applications.

I couldn't find it in their online catalog.
 
warthog5 said:
I just bought the tool from Harbor Freight the other day. It was like $4.00.

It's a small square block with a 3/8in drive hole on each side. It has a different configuration on each side to fit different applications.

I couldn't find it in their online catalog.
Click to expand...

I'll second this. Used it many times and works great.

40732.gif


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40732
 
the one wart hog is talking about is just a little block with the different pin spacing on each side thats a PITA to use. i have the snap on version of the tool that timkustom posted and it makes life pretty easy when doing rear breaks on quite a few cars now.
 
The Autozone here lets you use that tool for free.

You just pay for it first, then they give you your money back when you return it. I use their tools all the time.

As far as that little cube goes, put it in the same place that you put that burned up Chiltons book.:D

Edit: oops sorry, different person. Oh well you get the idea.
 
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the cube tool will work but its a PITA the tool in the pic work alot better because it presses the piston back in at the same as it twists it. once you get the tool set up in the caliper the weight of the ratchet that you use to twist the tool will almost do the work for you with very little effort as long as your calipers are not frozen.
 
I used a c clamp and a pair of channel locks, worked great. C-clamp squeezes and the channel lock turns it!
 
:big-grin:he got both sides together last night. then decided to change and flush brake syst. found out you need fresh brake fluid to do this, we live outside of town(7 miles one way). hopfully won't run into anymore snags. were commuting in my 95(just installed shift kit and added j mods) the shift is more noticeable but not hard @ normal throttle and will almost bark tires 1-2 and2-3 when you stand on it!I enjoy driving the mark even more(didn't think it was possible!) can't wait to chip it!
 
I noticed the P brake cable hanging down along the drivers side of the car. The deal at the rear by the diff where both sides join doesn't look right and my Haynes says nothing about how to adjust the slack. Anyone know how?
 
95blklsc said:
I used a c clamp and a pair of channel locks, worked great. C-clamp squeezes and the channel lock turns it!
Click to expand...


Thats a good way to tear the dust boot on the piston.

The C clamp is a good idea for use cheapy's, but use it in conjunction with the stupid little block thingy and you pretty much have the autozone tool.

Even the autozone tools are kinda a pain too.
 
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