Strut rod to fram bushings.

C

cobra98lsc

Registered
When i hit the brakes my front wheels move foward and back so much that i can feel them stop before the chassis stops.

I have new bushings installed and have done them 3 times... all upper and lower arms bushings,rod ends,struts,rack,bolts everything is new and tight.

Car still drives like @###@!#U$*

Sway bar links are new,K-memeber bolts are tight for sure now etc.

I am running out of ideas

How much play should be in the strut rod bushings?
Also they are the source of my never ending clunk when i hit bumps
 
RE: Strut rod to fram bushings.

Are you sure you have the new busings installed correctly? Which ones are they? Stock Lincoln or the blue Moog? Do you have both front and rear strut rod bushings.
Bottom line is there can be no play front to back or you have something wrong.
I suspect you have the bushings in wrong, there was a problem with the Moog bushings including the spacer of the incorrect size for a time period but even that would not cause your problems.

I installed Moog bushings in mine over the summer and had to do it twice when I installed them incorrectly, it is easy to do. And yes it will make noises and drive very poorly when the wheel moves around.
 
RE: Strut rod to fram bushings.

HELP MAN!!!

Ok been there done that with the MOOG units 3 sets of those Bastages!

These are black ones from Perfect Circle.

They were put in by a shop.

Which way do they go in so i can check tonight. I agree but they are new they move and knock and pop constantly.

I think this is the problem.

Should i go get ford ones and change them again before alignment?
 
RE: Strut rod to fram bushings.

Basically they appear to have a lot of gap between the bushing surface and the frame.

Could it be they are backwards?
 
RE: Strut rod to fram bushings.

Any diagram as to how they are supposed to go in??

I tried searching and found nothing.
 
RE: Strut rod to fram bushings.

They could be backwards, but i doubt it.

Did you see Jeremi's post in the other thread? Could be a defective part.
 
RE: Strut rod to fram bushings.

The sleeve is too long. Check it out - it should be 2-3/4.

The black bushings were the ones on my buddie's car.

The bushing with the nipple is the front bushing. The other one has a grove for that nipple - it's the back one.
 
RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

Yep thats how they are in,,, so can i cut down the sleeve like i did on the moog ones?

They only lasted a short time after doing that but i think i cut them way to much not knowing how much was the right length

I will go home and cut them to 2 3/4 tonight and see what that does then re-align it it the morning.

Thanks again
 
RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

Replace the sleeve with solid steel tubing. The MOOG sleeves are split and will not withstand the pressure. Remember, 2-3/4.
 
RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

Huh mine are black perfect cirlce units, is that the same as the moog ones?
 
RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

I reused some of the electrical conduit piping I bought from Home Depot for the garage wiring.
 
RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

Good idea i guess it wont crush as easy since no slit in it?
I may since only having one car and need to take out the sleeve to go check the size, and no ride to store etc... have to cut these to 2 3/4 tonight align in the morning, buy the tubing then make them 2 3/4 and just loosen the front nuts swap the tubes out and tighten them back down as long as i dont move the back nut the castor should remain in check... right?

I am thinking i might just pickup a rebuilt 1st gen rack for 90 bucks tonight and change it out also,, how bad a job is that really.
I have every tool on earth good garge big jack/stands and am a very good mechanic, built lots of cars, auto trannies, engines ,rear gears etc.

I hear this rack is a major PITA?

I have the socket to drop the K Member down from the car is that the easiest way to change rack? lower cradle and engine? and re-install it?
 
RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

I've never changed the rack, but if you take the k-member out of the car it should be very easy. I don't know how difficult it would be with the k-member in the car.
 
RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

It's doable. You'll very deep sockets for the rack bolts, but short enough to clear the oil pan. Undo the tie-rods, undo the bolts, lower the rack a little bit, undo the pressure line and return line, take it out of the car. The lines can be painful, but with some patience it's not too difficult. I did this on 4 different cars, and the last one was a snap. IMO it's well worth it, when they give you a lifetime warranty rack with new inner tie rods for $100-$125. I wouldn't drop the k-member for the rack alone though, and I've had that off multiple times.
 
RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

RE: Strut rod to frame bushings.

Well,

I aligned car with tech this morning spent 3 hours on it.
Did it at lowered height all wheels level etc.
My castor will not go to spec for anything we got 4.3 on the passenger and 3.7 on the drivers split of .6
No pull car tracks straight.
Not as much on center feel as i would have liked but feels pretty good
All adjustments werre to the TCCOA aggessive specs.

Car drives 1000 times better.
Steering wheel still cocks a little to the left but car tracks straight.
Why is it that on every alignment rack this car always ends up with the damned wheel crooked?
Its a little left at raised height and when lowered on highway pretty well dead centered.
I am at a loss for words on this issue.

BTW the tubes were already 2 3/4 but i shaved 1/8 more off them and they fit tighter bushings are new and look great.
 
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