went to the track again new slips getting better on the tree

Kracker

Kracker

Registered
reaction--.184----run2---.0958--run3-- .1654 --run4-- .1203--run5--.1204
60ft-----2.3208---------2.3252-------2.3146---------2.2924-------2.3030
330ft----6.5596---------6.5489-------6.5409---------6.4769-------6.4721
1/8------9.9808---------9.9591-------9.9774---------9.8769-------9.8507
mph------72.13 ---------72.38 -------71.97----------72.69-------- 73.03


reaction-------run6----- .0616------run7------.1345
60ft -------------------2.3832---------------2.3093
330ft-------------------6.5877-------------- 6.5002
1/8---------------------9.9719--------------9.9111
mph -------------------72.86----------------72.41


conditions for XLRVIII I know he like numbers
600FT ELEVATION
57.9 degrees 7.9 °F / 14.4 °C 45.0 °F / 7.2 °C 62% 30.08 in / 1018.6 hPa 10.0 miles / 16.1 kilometers
 
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good passes and good job at finding the "o's" on the tree!

now it's time to make "all the passes" in the o's!

Pay particular attention to your staging technique, just a couple of inches "too deep" into the bulbs will slow down your overall ET.

Practice staging "shallow", that will net you the best ET.
keeping in mind that shallow staging will slow down your RT.. but you can address that issue after you find a "good solid consistant" starting point.

you can add pressure to your front tires, that will offset the slower RT you get by staging shallow in the beams.

Shallow staging while it's detrimental to RT is benifitial to ET.
Adjusting the car afterwards will bring your RT's back down.
That way, you have a very consistant "starting point".. and shallow stage will make your ET lower.

all things being considered I am "assuming" the very minor inconsistancy's in your RT and ET were due to you staging the car in a little {inches) different spot on the starting line.

I wish both of us, could get to the same track on the same day.. I'm sure we could "eek" out some very good improvements in your combination with only some minor tire pressure changes and some "consistant starting line procedures".

we'll do that.. someday, you cant keep two dragstrip addicts like ourselves seperate FOREVER..haha
 
question for kracker:

when you approach the tree.. are you rolling into the "staged position" or are you stopping when you hit "prestage"?

try this next time out.

after completing the burnout process to dry your tires as you are approaching the tree... go very slowly, inching forward until you reach the "Prestage light".. when prestage light comes on..STOP.

Then.. with your foot on the gas pedal {preferably already AT launch RPM) bump the brake pedal until the car barely moves forward (about 1-2 inches) as you "bump" the brake 2-3 times the "staged light" may flicker before it turns on SOLID.

you want to "barely tickle" the Staged beam, that will be "shallow staged" and that is the best position to generate your "low et".

by staging in the same place each pass you will find that you'll probably run "all 9.80's" rather than mixing in the 9.90's as well.

consistancy being the key here, stage the same and your runs ETs and RTs will start to become even "tighter".

you can practice this "bumping technique" at home, with an observer standing next to your car.
you want to barely move the car with each bump, the observer can tell you "good" or "no good" on each bump.

when I do this, usually I can "bump" the car either 3 or 4 times between the "prestage bulb" and the "stage bulb".
I can bump 3 times and on the 4th bump the stage light burns...perfectly staged!

Sometimes the stage light will burn on the 3rd bump and that tells me "my bumps are too big"..haha (that sounded funny)
 
Gotcha, Thats pretty much how I do it. But. I didn't know that stageing shallow was important. I inch in like you said I just get the lights lit and go. I never really never worried about where I needed to be in the light But now I know and knowing is half the battle. Yes as soon as I have an asst. here at the wash I we will definitely meet up. recent changes went to ceramic brakes, fuel filter was stock i assume it was. it did said motorcraft(Ford) on it. bought a k & N did not come in until the day after the track go figure.
 
knowing is half the battle..yes!

try to stage as shallow as possible and do it as many times as possible.
This is going to give you a better ET, but will hurt your RT.

We can work out the RT issue after we get your ET stabilized and get you a good "starting line prodedure".

you are "leaving" when you see the third Amber light burn right?

Another tip to make your launches consistant is to pay no attention to the "upper bulbs" {the first two when the tree starts to countdown)
what I do is.. prestage, then stage, then look DIRECTLY at the third Amber light and pay no attention to the others, other than allowing myself to "notice" the tree is "active".

by looking at the third amber {known as "bottom bulbing") you are actually going to get a "good read" on your real reaction time.
People that "count down with the tree" often are "anticipating" when the third amber burns and "anticipating" the light doesnt help "consistancy".

Homework off the track - practice "bumping the car"
Homework ON the track - utilizing the "bumping technique" stage the car as shallow as possible.. and STARE into the "third amber" rather than "following the lights down the tree".

Rinse,Lather,REPEAT!

I'm going to Street Stock Points Race#2 this friday night!
(cant wait)
HAHA
 
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