Bad overspray

[Jamesvinar]

So i have an ugly spot near where the sunroof drains, i was doing some touch up work since the rocks and salt messed up the paint and i did some pretty bad over spray and overall just a pretty bad job, the color itself is a match but it has a black line border and a pretty thick line of black at the top. Should i sand it and give it another shot or use my touch up stick and brush to kinda blend it.

 

[billcu]

A claybar can remove over spray.

 

[Jamesvinar]

Thanks bill ill give it a try soon

 

[Jamesvinar]

I'm actually considering taking it to a shop to have that spot and alot of the paint fixed, Normally I like doing stuff to the car myself but if i'm not confident I don't think i should do it especially on a car like this.

 

[BlackIceLSC]

you can feather the edge with 1000 grit wet/dry and then 1500-2000 wet/dry and scuff both the factory clear and your touch-up spot and then just rattle-can clear coat the entire area. I've done this on MANY cars and the results are pretty nice...

just wash the area(be sure the paint is dry and not hot)
use warm soapy water and a sponge to hold the sand paper....scuff the entire work area paying attention to the "line" you speak of. dry it off and then lightly apply clear coat.

 

[Jamesvinar]

Well i have rust now in the areas around it now so in probably just gonna respray the whole section come spring. Im guessing its the same paint, clear, wetsand with 2k 2.5k and then 3k

Oddly when i painted this time it came out darker than before, does paint change in the can if its old or sitting in the cold garage for too long?

 

[BlackIceLSC]

yep. it can change color as sometimes the can isn't mixed well at first use, and then it gets more concentrated as it sits.
I always set the can in the sun, and use it and do NOT re-sue it later to try to match.

remember, primer is an absorbant....therefore, it will attract and retain moisture. If you leave bare primer on a spot it will actually create rust, not prevent it. it needs to painted over or sealed.

I rattle-canned an entire car and then sealed it and it never attracted moisture or had surface rust in 3 years.'

 

[Jamesvinar]

Ah well that's where my mistake was, well and doing it in a -10 degree garage...

I always make sure to use Primer, paint and clear but I've been told that i need to wetsand it.

 

[BlackIceLSC]

you can wet-sand "sandable" primer, as long as it is sealed with something on top (clear, color, sealer, etc)

when I bought this 1967 Dodge dart, it had no hood, fiberglass doors with horrible lexan windows, and was in a state of "rattle-can hell". The trunk was baby blue, and I did the following:

bought a white hood, snagged hood springs from bone yard from a 76 Valiant, bought steel doors with glass and wing-windows from a 76 Duster...they were gold in color. I then used a DA(dual action grinder) and 1 roll of stick-on 180 grit PADS, followed by 400 grit. block-sanded the hard edges of the body lines, rattle-canned the whole car using newspaper as masking, wet sanded the primer by hand and rattle-canned it with sealer/clear.

The car was called "the Roach Dart" when I got it, and it had a 383 with Offenhauser intake and edelbrock carb. barely ran. I put a Torquer 383 intake and Holly 650 vac. secondary on it and it ran like a top. It was a track-only car but if I had kept it It would have been on the street by now, and worth about $10k by today's prices.

I sold it to buy our S10 drag truck. This Dart sold on craigslist in 8 minutes....for real.
I posted it, got up to take a break, came back and had a text waiting for me. the car was gone in less than 2 hours....shoulda asked more!

 

[BlackIceLSC]

I found pics of the Roach Dart before I fixed the paint and added the body parts.

 

[Jamesvinar]

I woulda kept that thing!
I'm gonna wait out until the spring before I paint this, I have a front end to practice my blending skills on now.

 

[BlackIceLSC]

I woulda kept that thing!

at the time, I wanted this:

but looking back, I could have kept it as now it would be worth so much money it's shocking.

 

[Jamesvinar]

I actually had the opportunity to buy a dart clone when i was deciding on the mark. It was an old yellow and blackish color, interior was in pieces and the motor leaked pretty bad. Not really anything i couldnt fix, same motor thats in my truck just a little older. Ultimately decided on the mark because i would need something that would start in temps below 0. Ultimately im not sure if im liking the mark enough at this point :/
Id be curious to see what the s10 goes for in about 15 years

 

[BlackIceLSC]

the market on S10's is being saturated(in the racing world) since you can buy a straight 4 cyl version and have a V8 in it for $300 worth of engine mounts.(plus cost of engine, trans and driveshaft)

I paid $5000 for that S10 as a roller out of texas. I had a 355 and a TH400 ready, modified the driveshaft, and went racing for under $7k
sold it for $10.5 in 2014
That Dart would be worth $10k right now.

Not sure what a "dart Clone" is....a dart is a dart. WE USED TO have 2 of them, twins...a 1970 and a 1971...both 440's on Alcohol with Hilborn injection

We had a 1971 Dart, we sold to a local guy in 2004...he converted it back to gasoline, and was too scared to race it so he's been trying to sell it for 8 years for $13.5 and must be a tool because it was a great car....we sold it turn-key with spare parts for $7800 and it ran 10.30's all day long

1971 DART was HER car (notice the pink painted valve covers

1971 DART

 

[Jamesvinar]

I guess my elaboration on the dart being a clone would be that it was originally a wrecked dart, then pieces of metal were welded in from various cars in the junkyard to make it whole. Really weird but it looked normal.

I also gave the paint another shot today with it being 40 in my garage and it turned out much better