Broken flange stud.

[Lvnmarks]

I had the exhaust done on the green car, from the transmission back is mandrel 2.5" but going forward it's still stock pipe, cats and manifolds.





It started sputtering last week and I found that the upper stud on the passenger flange to pipe connection broke (to much hard shifting I guess)

So here's my dilemma, I've got a set off kooks doing nothing but taking up space. If I pay a shop the time to fix the stud, how much more time would it be to just install the headers?

I installed a set off kooks in my red car but it was over three months, on the ground and I was doing a million other little things. So I don't know what actual time is with just headers. I realise its going to cost more, just trying to be logical.

I tightened up all the other bolts and the sputter went away but I still need to correct the issue before it becomes an issue.

 

[Lvnmarks]

I've also fixed a stud on my red car several years ago, I think it took me an hour with the exhaust already out of the way.

 

[tonybrooklyn]

I had the exhaust done on the green car, from the transmission back is mandrel 2.5" but going forward it's still stock pipe, cats and manifolds.

View attachment 14420

View attachment 14421

It started sputtering last week and I found that the upper stud on the passenger flange to pipe connection broke (to much hard shifting I guess)

So here's my dilemma, I've got a set off kooks doing nothing but taking up space. If I pay a shop the time to fix the stud, how much more time would it be to just install the headers?

I installed a set off kooks in my red car but it was over three months, on the ground and I was doing a million other little things. So I don't know what actual time is with just headers. I realise its going to cost more, just trying to be logical.

I tightened up all the other bolts and the sputter went away but I still need to correct the issue before it becomes an issue.

I went with mustang cobra cast iron manifolds no cats stainless steel all the way back. I could not justify the cost of the
kooks i bought a better torque converter. I guess what i am trying to say is. It all depends on what your hoping to gain. If your gonna do a lot more mods like super charger cobra intake big injectors. Than the kooks are a must. If not meh that's my 2 cents worth good luck whatever you decide.

 

[billcu]

I usually just drill out the studs and replace them with bolts.

 

[Mad1stGen]

You're doing the oil pan gasket anyways ?

I usually just drill out the studs and replace them with bolts.

That works excellent on left manifold (and it was done), but no so much on the right side, as the flange angle makes it almost impossible to drill a straight hole.

 

[Lvnmarks]

Yes, I have a new pan and gasket for it.

I'm trying to get Kirks mechanic to take a look at it, evaluate and go from there. I want the headers but was hoping to do them when I swap to a c head.

 

[Ford nut]

I vote kooks, drop k if your going to kill any emissions now is the time to get that fixed in the tune also, maybe a couple tunes now that you have a hand held.

Okay I changed my mind, isnt that high mile engine blowing oil out of every gasket?
Pull manifold and drill it, put it back together drive it until you get a lower mile engine I wouldnt even do the pan gasket....can of worms you will open.

 

[tixer]

option C: the "Kirk Stromberg approach"

put NOS on it and take it to the track as-is. Tell 'em to get ready to clean up some oil. Come time time to replace the engine, you're already 1/16th there.

FYI: there's not a lot of emissions left on there as-is.. http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.or...-a-picture-you-took-today&p=247121#post247121

 

[chris2523]

oh so thats where he got the green car eh?
and yeah, high mileage means ring gap for nitrous.
thats how that works right?

 

[Lvnmarks]

If only there weren't a nitrous shortage...

Just the pan gasket leaks, didn't notice anything else for the 2 minutes I was under there. Might be more but I don't care, drive it till it goes, I have more engines.

 

[Lvnmarks]

Went the header route, replaced the pan, gasket and solid motor mounts. Just needs a tune.

The idle has gotten allot better and the sound is a major improvement. It's not louder but it sounds so much cleaner and the car "feels" like it has a little more torque.

 

[tixer]

Great pictures.

I'm glad it's all coming together for you!

 

[driller]

I like the v-band clamps vs. the 3-bolt flange. :wink:

Did you not get a wide-band bung installed?

I'm surprised the steering shaft remained stock and didn't require modification.

 

[Lvnmarks]

I was looking at the "ball n socket" style too but I liked how compact and easy to remove the band clamps are. I still have the 3 bolt flange on my red cars headers, pain in the butt they are. Unfortunately I couldn't get the SS ones but these welded on nice.

No wide-band but not to hard to add down the road. I'm just trying to make it mechanically sound and fun to drive. Remember, the car has 1/4 million miles on it.

I have an extra FR joint, just waiting for a stub shaft. Although I like not having NVH in my steering wheel and there is still plenty of room for activities.



The kooks needed a few extra welds as usual,

 

[Ford nut]

Your car just sent me this text...~I need gears~