Ignition Switch Jamming

[HOTLNC]

Has anybody had/have problems with the ignition switch jamming? On my wife's brick, if you are not very, very careful, when turning off the car you can move the key slightly out of the switch. This allows the outer cylinder (with the chrome "ears" on it that you actually turn) to move slightly in relation to the tumbler cylinder (the part the key fits in.) Once this happens, you cannot turn the assembly -- everything locks up. The key can be removed. BUT the "key in lock" buzzer will sound if you open the door. The "fix" to the above is to reinsert the key and push it all the way inside the tumbler cylinder. Once inside, you can jiggle the "ears" and get everything to line up. Only then can you carefully remove the key without turning it in relation to the "ears" cylinder.

I’ve taken the ignition switch assembly out of the steering column. I cannot see anything broken. I cleaned and lubricated everything and then reinstalled it. It still does its jamming thing. Anybody have any ideas?

 

[redn8]

Jerry,
How long have you supported the Klingon?

Did it start with Kirk or with Picard?

 

[avu3]

This happened on a tow-rus we have a while back. Went thru the same thing, couldn't fix it. We ended up having the stealership fix it. There are apparently some ears that get worn off over time, and once worn you don't realize they were even there.

No idea if the assembly is remotely the same or not, so might or might not help, but good luck.

Scott

 

[HOTLNC]

Actually, I've always been star treked. A couple of years ago, the daughters gave me an autographed Deep Space Nine wedding photo. It shows Lt. Cmdr. Worf (Michael Dorn) and Lt. Cmdr. Dax (Terry Farrell) in their cherry red wedding togs. Great photo.

As soon as my #2 daughter finishes my "shade tree mechanic drawing" I'll put that there instead of the Klingon empire symbol.

 

[redn8]

We look forward to it.

 

[MaddShadez]

I happen to bea HUGE Star Trek Fan. When I was in my fan "prime" I got autographs from Kate Mulgrew (Janeway) John De Lancie (sp?) (Q) Terry Farrel (Dax) whom I proposed to when she signed it. Since I was only 15 she reluctantly turned me down . I have a few more 9 total.



THe key problem, is common, I have it as well. I think a new cylander is around $50 or so. Here's the fix, sorry no photos although it says it has them. I can't think of who posted it origianlly, so I can give them credit.




Note: photos are of a 1993
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the bottom panel under the dash that has the light in it. Remove the light, twist connection. (The 1993 doesn’t have this panel)
3. Remove the large panel under the steering column that has the small air vent in it. 2 screws hold the bottom of the panel the top of the panel is held with 2 clips that just a light tug on the top of the panel will pull it loose.
NOTE: BY REMOVING THESE TWO PANELS IT GIVES YOU PLENTY OF ROOM TO WORK AS WELL AS YOU CAN SEE EVERYTHING. IT ALSO MAKES IT EASIER FOR THE WIRING HARNESS THAT CONNECTS TO THE SWITCH TO SWING DOWN TO THE SIDE OF THE STERING COLUMN AND UNPLUG FROM THE OLD SWITCH.



4. Remove the tilt lever that operates the position of the steering wheel. This just unscrews from the steering column (MAKE SURE THE STERING WHEEL IS IN THE LOWEST POSITION FOR EASE OF REMOVAL OF OTHER PARTS )
5. Remove the 3 Phillips head screws in the bottom of the lower cover that hides the turn signal / windshield wiper switch. On the right side, in the back of the cover is a 4th screw, the covers will not come apart if you don't remove this screw. Now remove the lower cover.



6. The ignition switch has to be removed to remove the upper column cover. Remove the ignition switch by inserting the ignition key, and turn to the ‘Run’ position. Insert an 1/8” straight punch or drift pin into the small hole in the bottom of the switch housing. Pull the switch assembly out. LEAVE THE KEY IN THE SWITCH.



7. The upper cover is a little tougher to get out but with a little twisting it comes off.



8. There are 2 torque drive screws that hold the multiplex switch in place, one top, and one bottom. You do not need a tamper proof drive for this. Remove the 2 screws.



9. The wiring harness that plugs into the back of the switch will slide off to the left of the steering column and allow the switch to swing down almost to the floor for ease of unplugging it. Reason for step 2 & 3. Pay close attention to the location of the wiring harness and make sure you put it back in the same location.



10 Unplug old switch replace with new one. Reverse removal instruction for replacement. ONLY DIFFERENCE YOU DO NOT NEED TO INSERT A DRIFT PIN IN THE BOTTOM OF THE IGNITION HOUSING TO RE-INSTALL IT.
I thank all of you that had input for this project, I hope the step by step I have posted will be of use to someone else.

 

[HOTLNC]

Thanks. I ordered a new assembly from Torrie yesterday. I should have it by Friday.

 

[HOTLNC]

Updated -- Ignition Switch Jamming

I received the ignition lock from Torrie. Part number SW2417. $39 bucks including shipping. It installs the same way as the ones on our Mark. The wife whined about the black ears (the old one had chrome ears.) The new keys (two provided) are encoded with the ignition lock ONLY. The door and truck locks can be ground into the new keys toward the back of the key. There are a couple of pins that overlap the two grinding areas. One overlapping pin is cut too deep, so I must take it to a locksmith to add a pin to the new lock set. Once that is done, he'll cut the door into the two new keys. I'll take the lock to the locksmith tomorrow.

From my experiments, this new lock set fixes the problem. The other one was just worn out.

Now all I gotta do is fix the mystery noise on the right front and I'll have earned another attaboy.