Possible changeover to coils

LeoC2

New member
So I converted the front to coils last year and kept the rear air. Yesterday Moose's rear is slammed so I'm thinking of just chucking it and going to rear coils also. Problem is I do some towing in the summer for my car shows. The trailer weight is around 1500-1700 lbs or so and well balanced.

Anyone have any experience with towing with the coils suspension?
 

ranchodenieve

New member
I have worked with trailers on other vehicles, but not a Mkvii. The key is a balanced load and you won't have a problem. You do want a bit of weight on the tongue to help keep it hitched. Rear heavy with no tongue weight is very bad. Too much tongue weight is a prescription for problems. The air ride might be able to disguise it, but you are still transferring too much weight to the rear end. I don't think that you will have a problem if you convert as long as you tow correctly.
Bill W
 

driller

El Presidente
Tons of towing experience but not in a Mark VIII.

But a couple thoughts...

You want at least 10% of the trailer weight on the tongue weight. If you noted no propensity to 'fishtail' before, you'll likely be OK but I agree the air suspension has the ability to mask a lot of trailer issues just due to the self leveling feature.

Coil springs will need to be properly sized for much over 100 pounds tongue weight. If I remember correctly, the equivalent weight over the axle is 2-3 times the tongue weight in a typical bumper tow arrangement. So if you have say 150 pounds tongue weight, you can approximate it by putting 300 to 450 pounds in the trunk. Odds are 200 pounds or so would not be an issue, but 400?

If it were me, since the rear airbags are available and reasonably priced, I would keep the air ride in the back if for no other reason than the self leveling feature. But you don't necessarily even know what failed just yet?
 

LeoC2

New member
I think Moose is haunted or knows what I was thinking! Actually I think the extreme cold may have caused the problem because... I drove about 5 miles to the mechanic so we could see where the leak was and by the time I got there the system pumped up and all was good. Checked for leaks and found nothing.

I called Arnott who I purchased the rears from 2 yrs ago and they haven't a clue. Personally I think a solenoid got frozen and stuck so air once it vented out could not be pumped in. With the 5 mile ride things got warm and jostled and freed up the valves.

Any thoughts?
 

driller

El Presidente
You would think a stuck vent valve but actually wouldn't it have to be three stuck solenoid valves? That seems highly unlikely.

More likely would be an intermittent relay harness connection? The system would have attempted to pump up the rear and opened up the valves but the compressor never engaged. :rolleyes:
 

LeoC2

New member
You would think a stuck vent valve but actually wouldn't it have to be three stuck solenoid valves? That seems highly unlikely.

More likely would be an intermittent relay harness connection? The system would have attempted to pump up the rear and opened up the valves but the compressor never engaged. :rolleyes:
No, the compressor was running every time but rear didnt rise so that a why i suspected a leak
 

driller

El Presidente
No, the compressor was running every time but rear didnt rise so that a why i suspected a leak
If the system was trying to inflate the rear, the rear was slammed, the compressor was running and the bags were found to not be leaking; that only leaves one suspect.

A sticking vent valve.
 

LeoC2

New member
If the system was trying to inflate the rear, the rear was slammed, the compressor was running and the bags were found to not be leaking; that only leaves one suspect.

A sticking vent valve.
Which is what I figured. One more thing... would the sticking vent valve also cause the vehicle to slam overnight then allow it to inflate in the morning? I suspect this damp cold had a lot to do with it.
 

driller

El Presidente
... would the sticking vent valve also cause the vehicle to slam overnight then allow it to inflate in the morning?
That's the problem with sticking vent valves... they don't always stick and certainly not always the same way or in the same circumstances.
 

LeoC2

New member
OK so it appears the extreme extended cold was the cause of all this. For days I couldn't get Moose to pump up in the rear, the compressor ran but nothing happened. Then yesterday the temp broke and we are now in a heat wave (40 degrees) and all is right again. Car pumped up yesterday like a champ and stayed up, came out this morning and it was still up.

I spoke to Arnott and the person I spoke to said that this extreme cold can affect the rubber and apparently prevent it from inflating. I guess it gets too stiff and hard to expand? Whatever the reason it all seems OK now. I imagine these aftermarket units are not up to the same standards as OEM. I'll keep an eye on it and fingers crossed.
 

driller

El Presidente
I spoke to Arnott and the person I spoke to said that this extreme cold can affect the rubber and apparently prevent it from inflating. I guess it gets too stiff and hard to expand?
That's the most ridiculous explanation ever. :err-what?:
 

billcu

Head Moderator
I agree, I've had frozen dryers before.:)

You can dry them out, or just replace the dryer, they are not that expensive.
 
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ranchodenieve

New member
Yes Rubber becomes very stiff in the cold. Back in the homeland, Saskatchewan, suspension bushings went out regularly. At -40 they could shatter on the older cars. Modern silicone bushings do much better, but the air bags are old school rubber and get very stiff when cold
Bill w
 

LeoC2

New member
Since the temps have been back up above freezing the rear now works fine! Stays up overnight, in fact stand up all weekend without having been driven.

So I'm leaning at frozen dryer or solenoid. I have a spare dryer so I'll try that first.
 
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