The 14 Model T Re-Furbish

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Went up to the machine shop this past weekend. Finally got to see my engine almost done. All that is left to do is hone the cylinders and give it one more cleaning. Everything is balanced, checked, straight and true.

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No more baked on oil :)

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Since there was a crack in the #4 spark plug hole, he just inserted a heli-coil. There were so many little things wrong, cracked, work or bad on this engine I have no idea how it still ran. Further more what it will be like to have a new running one.

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Some assembly required..... :D Actually I I could have had the shop put the motor together but is was an extra $350 and I have never built an engine before, so I figured this would be a great place to start.

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Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
The crank on the left is my old cracked one that will be made into a table lamp some how. The newer one is on the right, ground to perfection (or slightly under :) )

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Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Back when Ford started up the serial number on the block was the "VIN" number on your title. According to this my car was sold in Nov of 1914, there is another number stamped on the frame of the car with a similar date.

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I also learned that the last Model T engine was assembled on August 4, 1941. And a total of 169,856 engines were built after the last Model T was assembled in Dearborn.
 

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Here are the main crank shaft caps with freshly poured Babbitt and bored to the crank journal size

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Here is the other half in the block, all the mains were bored to match so they can not be mixed up.

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Here is the connecting rod with fresh Babbitt bored out to the correct spec. Also note the dimples around the top side of the base, that is were he removed some metal in order to balance the rods. The other half of the rod had to have some weight added to the reciprocating end in order to correctly balance that.

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Here is the flywheel, he took a little off the clamps in order for it to get closer to the coils. Just waiting for it to be balanced.

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Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Here is the Babbitt pouring process on another member engine.

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After heating the Babbitt (a mixture of 80%tin 20% other metals) a jig is placed over the first main bearing. Cork is used to seal the oil holes in the block so the liquid Babbitt wont pour out.

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Then the block is heated so when the hot Babbitt touches the block it flows into all the cracks.

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The mixture is skimmed of impurities and then poured into the mold. Only a few minutes are needed before the mold can be removed. Some times this process has to be done several times until a good casting is done.

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After all three mains are poured correctly a jig is placed over the block webbing and secured. A shaft is inserted with a few small hols in it to receive a cutting bit. This bit can be adjusted to the thousandths in order to cut the bearing to the correct crank shaft diameter. Every job is different so this process takes approximately 4 hours.

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Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Here is the Babbitt after pouring but before boring.

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A drill is inserted on to the shaft to rotate it for cutting.

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A close up of the cutting bit. A larger bit will be used on each side of the bearing to cut the thrust area the crank shaft pushes on. If you look closely you can see the brass shim in between the cap and block. Shims are used to adjust the clearance of the crank shaft bearing after installation of the crank and to also tighten up the bearing after many, many miles of use.

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Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Next the rods are poured, a special movable jig is need to clamp the rod and rod cap together. A similar process to the crank to bore out the rods is on another machine not pictured.

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After everything is poured, bored and machined it is assembled to check for clearances and shims are adjusted for the correct .0001 +/- .0001 tolerance. After that rods are balanced with there piston counterpart and ready to go!
 
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Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Things are starting to melt here, need to get her back on the road soon. Figure if I keep posting I'll be motivated to get it going.
 

Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Well went up north to work on assembly but forgot one part and some compound for the crank journals.

So all we got done was making a custom bracket to mount the T block to my engine stand. Luckily I had allot of Mark viii parts with me to keep me busy. Doing a complete rebuild of a rear sub frame. :D

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Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Made some small progress last weekend.

Installed the new cam (re-ground cam) and new babbeted bearings.

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Assembled the rods and pistons. Old ones were steel and the new ones are aluminum. The wrist pins have an indent in them for the bolt to go through and secure the rod to the piston.

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I thought it was cool that the new pistons have"Model T" cast into them.

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Lvnmarks

quandoomniflunkusmoritati
Installed the crank and plasti gauge the crank jurnals. Got the clearance down to .0001 but now it's a bit to tight. So have to lap the crank a little to make it just right.

Once the crank is set up right the rest of the assembly will go together quickly


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You can also see the new nylon gear which advances the cam by 7°.
 

tixer

Lincoln Evangelist
I recently toured the USS Iowa, and all of the intercom handsets in one particular part of the ship had been disabled by means of safety wiring them to the base. It was all quite elegant, and made me think of the pride you take in your own work.

The others were disabled with nylon cable ties..
 
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