The Mark's Cooling Fan Mods

[mlschultz]

Thought I should update this thread with my last, and upcoming mods. I had Injected install a Reische 170* thermostat last November. It opens as advertised at 170* per my OBD2 reader, burping the system was easy, and the temps have kept in the 170-190's for the last four months under all conditions including drag racing.

Motorcraft green coolant was used at 25% mixture - 1 gallon full strength coolant, 3 gallons distilled water, and 1 bottle of purple ice. It tested protection at 5* above zero.

No changes to the on/off temp for the cooling fans were made. Going to see where we are at first, before adjusting the fans on/off temps.

I had a brainstorming session with Big Scott and Jason at the Injected customer appreciation car show & dyno day this past Saturday.

Jason agreed to make some mods to the underside of my hood at the wiper cowl by cutting into and screening the hood cross brace to promote air flow.

He is also going to make a fiberglass low profile wiper cowl to replace the stock wiper cowl. He said he is going to pick up a stock wiper cowl from the salvage yard to use as a mold. These mods should leave a inch or two gap for air to travel. The hood liner is also being deleted, and the underside will be cleaned up and painted.

My thoughts are, to use the inlets from the Temple bumper and some creative duct work to see if we can get some air moving through the engine compartment and out the cowl. If that don't work, cut some holes in the hood for scoop and heat extractors.

 

[Roadboss]

I don't think you are going to need to worry about picking up more air once you provide the means for the air under the hood to escape. My hood moves gobs of air from the engine bay with no help. I will also venture you will see some additional engine temps drop as well.

 

[driller]

I don't think you are going to need to worry about picking up more air once you provide the means for the air under the hood to escape. My hood moves gobs of air from the engine bay with no help. I will also venture you will see some additional engine temps drop as well.

I have to agree. At the track, I have removed the weatherstrip from the cowl for improved heat extraction. With the cowl hood on the '96 and the short time a cowl hood was on the '93, there was a LOT of heat being removed from the engine compartment. Doing the ventilation mods to the windshield cowl should prove to be just as effective.

But I do like the idea of "heat extractor" scoops.

 

[mlschultz]

I hope it works. Just about every person I have spoken with that at one time or another had to deal with above normal engine temps has gotten relief by increasing air flow under the hood.

 

[Mad1stGen]

Mike, since we're on topic of cooling, do you mind grabbing few pictures of the radiator mounting (top brackets, how it tucks in under the core support, side clearances etc ...) ?

It's been a while since I installed one of these, and the newest project will require all the room possible. Thanks !

 

[mlschultz]

lol I think these might help Jeremi. Wendy's camera has a mind of it's own when trying to focus it. (aka operator problems)

 

[mlschultz]

I took The Mark to Gran Turismo East, a performance car suspension shop to go over everything - front and rear suspension today. There is a shake that comes and goes at interstate speeds that I suspect might be a strut rod, but I want this shop to go over everything before the trip to Carlisle this June. This shop is highly recommended, so I hope they can sort the car out.

Anyway, it was 83* outside today, with a 2100 pollen count, so I turned the air conditioning on. It was 5pm rush hour traffic, and stop and go at times. The engine temp went to 194* and hung around that +or- a couple degrees for the entire trip. For reference, no a/c on, the car runs 174* +or- a couple degrees.

So far, so good

 

[KStromberg]

Hood scoop on a Gen2. Yummmm. And it would be FUNCTIONAL.

 

[BadSax]

I took The Mark to Gran Turismo East, a performance car suspension shop to go over everything - front and rear suspension today. There is a shake that comes and goes at interstate speeds that I suspect might be a strut rod, but I want this shop to go over everything before the trip to Carlisle this June. This shop is highly recommended, so I hope they can sort the car out.

Anyway, it was 83* outside today, with a 2100 pollen count, so I turned the air conditioning on. It was 5pm rush hour traffic, and stop and go at times. The engine temp went to 194* and hung around that +or- a couple degrees for the entire trip. For reference, no a/c on, the car runs 174* +or- a couple degrees.

So far, so good

First of all, I hate you... but that's not news, it's pretty much common knowledge

Isn't regular operating temperature for a Mark or "The Mark" 200+?

I think CaddySax stays in the 220 range when hurtling down the highway like a large badass black vault...

 

[mlschultz]

Hood scoop on a Gen2. Yummmm. And it would be FUNCTIONAL.

No word yet from Jason regarding the wiper cowl project. I need to hunt him down and see what's up. The real test with the 90*+ days is drawing near, and with the way the car is running at the moment with the a/c on, I am not in as much of a hurry to vent the hood as long as the coolant temps stay they way they are.

First of all, I hate you... but that's not news, it's pretty much common knowledge

Isn't regular operating temperature for a Mark or "The Mark" 200+?

I think CaddySax stays in the 220 range when hurtling down the highway like a large badass black vault...

lol Joe I still like you.

Anywhere between 185* and 205* for most engines is a normal heat range IMHO. 220* on up to 230* I would be concerned, and would proceed with caution.

 

[Mad1stGen]

Mike, I am sorry, I totally missed out on those pictures. Thanks again !

Now I know why you have no room in front of that engine.
The radiator was supposed to be tucked in, as in under the core support.
The a/c condenser needs to be tilted forward, and then the radiator follows it with slightly modified lower mounts, and clearanced top pegs.

With a modified stock fan shroud, I have about 4-5/8s clearance to stock crank (compared to 3" originally).
Plenty of room for a 3" a 4" or whatever pipe you want to or need to run in the front. Don't pay attention to the AIR solenoid
There is even more room in front of the actual shroud. If the car still runs hot, please re-consider the stock fan.

 

[Lvnmarks]

I would be concerned, and would proceed with caution.

But it’s Joe, the doctor told his Mom that when he was born.

Now Joe hates me too.

 

[BadSax]

No word yet from Jason regarding the wiper cowl project. I need to hunt him down and see what's up. The real test with the 90*+ days is drawing near, and with the way the car is running at the moment with the a/c on, I am not in as much of a hurry to vent the hood as long as the coolant temps stay they way they are.





lol Joe I still like you.

Anywhere between 185* and 205* for most engines is a normal heat range IMHO. 220* on up to 230* I would be concerned, and would proceed with caution.

ok, ok... I like you too...

I think center of the temp dial in DTSax is 220, the red part is 260, the car mostly stays a tick under the center line.

But it’s Joe, the doctor told his Mom that when he was born.

Now Joe hates me too.

Actually the Dr. told her I would be 6'4" tall - nailed it...

 

[97MarkJA]

Have you looked at the ac condenser Mike? I know the 96 cobras had a issue overheating and the solve was replacing the condenser. In 96 the had 22 fins per inch and in 97 and up it went to 15 or 16 per inch because it was a known issue. 03/04 cobras are 15 or 16 per inch if I'm not mistaken also.

 

[mlschultz]

Mike, I am sorry, I totally missed out on those pictures. Thanks again !

Now I know why you have no room in front of that engine.
The radiator was supposed to be tucked in, as in under the core support.
The a/c condenser needs to be tilted forward, and then the radiator follows it with slightly modified lower mounts, and clearanced top pegs.

With a modified stock fan shroud, I have about 4-5/8s clearance to stock crank (compared to 3" originally).
Plenty of room for a 3" a 4" or whatever pipe you want to or need to run in the front. Don't pay attention to the AIR solenoid
There is even more room in front of the actual shroud. If the car still runs hot, please re-consider the stock fan.

Thanks for the info, Jeremi! At the moment, I am hopeful the combination of the 25/75 coolant/water and the Reische 170* thermostat is going to get the job done.

I picked the car up from the suspension shop yesterday, and the outside air temp was reading 90* from the car, and IAT was in the 100's. It was 5pm rush hour traffic again, and the a/c was on. The car reached a high of 203* the entire trip home.

ok, ok... I like you too...

I think center of the temp dial in DTSax is 220, the red part is 260, the car mostly stays a tick under the center line.



Actually the Dr. told her I would be 6'4" tall - nailed it...

DTSax must have one of those higher pressure - 18psi cooling systems to run those temps. 230* is 3/4 of the way up the gauge for a Mark VIII. I can't remember for sure, but when I was running the Evans coolant, I remember posting pictures of when the stock gauge pegged in the red. I know after 230*, the gauge moves real quick to the red.

Have you looked at the ac condenser Mike? I know the 96 cobras had a issue overheating and the solve was replacing the condenser. In 96 the had 22 fins per inch and in 97 and up it went to 15 or 16 per inch because it was a known issue. 03/04 cobras are 15 or 16 per inch if I'm not mistaken also.

Yes, I have considered replacing the condenser. When the original one in the car fails, I will be replacing it with one with less fins for sure. :thumbsup: