Chip came in, how do I install? (Need to take ECU out of care if so how?)

well i cleaned it off as good as it can be with out going completely insane to over do it. In fact I hope I havn't. Gene at LMS, told me to get it to where I can see copper coloring on the computer. I did that with the top connectors but the bottom ones are still silver, they do not seem to wanna change. however. I think the chip is working, but i want to be sure. Does anyone else have this chip? I would like to hear from you!
 
If you have a "hard time telling" if the chip is there...

I think you should have followed the instructions I gave you early on in this thread. You chose a different route and.. "here you are".

I dont want to say anything bad about Geno as personally I like the guy, but..
I didn't have "too much" luck running his programming.

I had detonation/pinging as well...

We went around and around trying to troubleshoot it.

I replaced my entire ignition system ($300.00), then dropped the tank and changed the fuel pump($327.00), which IMHO is quite a bit of expense to troubleshoot a 300.00 chip.

in the end, I went with another chip.. and eventually got the software so I could make my own chip, customized to my "own needs".

For a little more than the chip costs, you can get the WHOLE SHEBANG from one of the vendors here on the board, such as "Lonnie" who posted advice above.

Lonnie is good people, notice he came into this thread to help you..and your not even running his chip/programming... and.. He didn't even try to sell you anything either.

Here is a tip: take note of the exchange/return policy for LMS..
and make sure you are HAPPY before the "return period expires".

I spent too much time spending money troubleshooting that my "return period" lapsed...which is why I went with ANOTHER vendor.
 
Here is the quote from your original post...
XLRVIII said:
Lonnie at Blue Oval Chips would be my first suggestion, he knows the "dos and donts" in regards to these cars.

As for the intake, save your money and apply that to the chip.
The stock mark 8 intake and MAF are perfectly suited for a near stock mark 8 that isn't running forced induction {blower or turbo}

Dont buy into the "Larger MAF" hype as it's just that.. HYPE.. expensive HYPE.
Click to expand...

and you replied with:
AbrahamLincoln said:
Ok, I just placed an order today with LincolnMotorsport to get there chip.
Click to expand...
 
i'm 90 percent sure I am going to return this chip. I'll be coming to lonnie. You made a very good point, and from another post I heard some other things about the chip. im pretty pissed that it didnt do what it was supposed to do, as for the gas, i have almost taken out that whole tank. I am going to fill up pretty soon with 93 which i should have done from the gate - but I wasnt the one who filled it up. So if that 93 makes the chip work right than theres a slight chance i will keep it. But, this chip doenst even come directly from LMS, it is shipped by someone else in florida. The only bad thing is I lose 20% off what I paid. It doesnt seem like anyone on here has this chip however it seems like everyone has good things to say about LMS. So i dont get it. If anyones is from Allentown PA or near there ide love for someone to take a look.
 
Since you are considering getting a different chip, and your already going to lose 20% "restocking fee". you might consider doing what I did.

Order a chip from Lonnie and compare the two chips side by side.

I did this back same type of scenario back when I was looking for my first chip.

It's an expensive route but when you have all the facts in front of you, it's alot easier to make a decision not based on "hype or internet reputations".

I took 3 different chips to the dragstrip with me, the conclusions were based on ET's and MPH's from the timeslips... and based on overall driveabilty improvements.

One thing to keep in mind that there is alot more to "PCM calibration" that Wide Open Throttle performance..

in the end I went with the chip that gave me the Best Performance and still "acted right" when driven normally.

Kept the "good one" sold the others... lost money in the end, but atleast I made an evaluation and got the "best chip, for my personal needs".
 
The diablo chip and LMS is infamous around here from back in the day. I hade my mark dyno tuned a long time ago for those that know him by Jerry W when he was around, before that had one of his chips. Both the chip and then the tune are great. If I was getting a chip today I would talk to Lonnie.
 
steve said:
I hade my mark dyno tuned a long time ago for those that know him by Jerry W when he was around.
Click to expand...

That is who's chip I wound up running at the end of my "dragstrip test".
His programming is second to NONE.

I attribute the long life of my 95 transmission to Jerry's calibration.
360,000 hard miles, over 6000 dragstrip passes and the tranny never missed a beat.

IMHO Jerry's programming carried me many trouble free miles.

If I had to pick a chip today, it'd also be from Lonnie who I am sure is still in touch with Jerry in some manner or another.
 
JP ya got me there..haha

I guess I should have said.. IF I didn't have the SCT proracer package and could burn my OWN chip, that Lonnie would be my first choice.

Hell.. I'm still considering getting a tune from Lonnie if for nothing else to verify and compare to my own tune.

Had I gotten my Pro Racer Package FROM Lonnie I know I would have gotten a good solid starting point and possibly a tune that needed "nothing" changed.

I went with a local SCT dealer and IMHO it was "not the best choice" as they actually knew less about these cars that I do..*shrugs*

Hindsight is always 20/20 though, as this original poster of this thread is quickly discovering
 
what are the stock shift points? i have a big feeling that my chip isnt installed right after reading about people who both this same chip and had difficulties with the connection. Genes directions say to take the contact down to where i see copper, the directions that come with the diablochip say otherwise.

someone said the chip makes the car idle high, whats the stock idle?

my car shifts 1-2 at like 5800-5900 ish.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
what are the stock shift points? i have a big feeling that my chip isnt installed right after reading about people who both this same chip and had difficulties with the connection. Genes directions say to take the contact down to where i see copper, the directions that come with the diablochip say otherwise.

someone said the chip makes the car idle high, whats the stock idle?

my car shifts 1-2 at like 5800-5900 ish.
Click to expand...


I never said the chip made the car "idle high".

what I said was Geno puts a different idle speed into his chips that helps him confirm the chip is installed and working properly.
Different idle speed DOESNT mean "higher idle speed"

You need to do what I said earlier.

REMOVE THE CHIP, Reset the PCM by disconnecting the battery to clear the memory and see what your car idles at in "stock form".

Then.. REPLACE THE CHIP, reset the battery and compare the idle speeds.
you should be able to tell the differences.

The stock shift points can vary greatly due to transmission wear.

1 transmission might begin it's shift at 5600 RPMS and due to slippage might not complete the shift until 6500 RPMs.

I could open up the SCT software and post the stock shift points, but that would probably just confuse the issue more, as your transmission is NOT shifting at the "Commanded RPM".

you have to keep in mind that when the PCM "commands" the shift and when it occurs can be up to 1000RPM's different due to various reasons, slippage, worn parts, tired pump.. the list goes ON.. and ON.

If you give me 15-20 minutes to clear my desk of "WORK"..
I'll fire up the laptop and post the "stock shift points" for the DZA1 processor, BUT...Keep in mind these "shift points" are going to be "earlier" in the RPM's than when the shift actually takes place.

So it's not like If I say the shift point for 1-2 is 5600 RPMS and yours is happening at 6K that doesnt mean your "shift points have been raised".
This only means your car is accelerating 400RPMS while the shift is "taking place".

If your car is shifting at 6K then very possibly your shift points are STOCK.

Commanded shift points compared to actual shift points can vary alot from car, to car, to car.
 
You also want to be very careful when cleaning the contacts.
You CAN remove too much material and the chip wont make a good connection.

I cleaned mine until I saw a "hint" of copper showing thru the silver.
That told me that I DID get all the "Grease" and "clear coat" off the board.

no need to make them "bright shiney penny" copper looking as by the time you get them "that clean".. you have probably removed "too much material" and that will cause a whole another list of connection issues/problems.
 
i took out the chip today, cleaned the contacts with an alchohol prep pad, gene told me to take em down to where ther copper. I didnt go too crazy, but i did get most of the silver off the top in the middle of the contacts. as per the "idle speed" i dont understand what you mean. You said the idle will be different but not higher? so i dont understand. my cars idling at 750. it shifts at 5900 1-2, and 2-3 i believe is a little higher like 6100.
 
These are stock PCM shift points for the DZA1 processor

trans WOT shift 1-2 = 5600
trans WOT shift 2-3 = 5850
trans WOT shift 3-4 = 5200
(dont do WOT 3-4 shifts under any circumstances)

So I'd have to say if your car at WOT is completing the 1-2 shift at 6K then your 1-2 shift point is "stock or near stock".

You really dont want to push the stock torque convertor much past 6K due to ballooning issues that others have experienced and the lack of a snap ring/spiral lok on the front pump.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
as per the "idle speed" i dont understand what you mean.
Click to expand...

I cant remember the exact value Geno put in the chip because it's been over 5 years since I ran his programming in my car.

I do remember him asking me "how I liked the new idle speed" and he mentioned that is how he evaluates possible connection issues.

That would be a question for Geno, more than myself.


Stock idle speed in neutral/park is 656 RPMs
Stock idle speed in drive is 576RPMs.

You say yours idles at 750 that's 100RPM's more than stock.

Are you sure you dont have some kind of vacuum leak someplace?

That would cause a high idle, and would cause detonation/pinging due to unmetered air entering the system... which will make the car run DANGEROUSLY lean

I'd do a very thorough check looking for a vacuum leak, around the throttle body to air horn gasket, the little bolt that holds the air horn onto the throttle body, the PCV hose that connects to the air horn {on the passenger side, you cant miss it}
The PCV valve itself is known for the grommet in the valve cover to leak.

Also there is a small vacuum line running acrossed the intake manifold that is also prone to crack,break and leak.. it's a hard plastic line, not a typical rubber vacuum line.

Vacuum leaks will cause ALOT of problems, especially in a computer controlled car.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
what do you mean by infamous?
Click to expand...

The infighting over vendors, tuning and chips ultimately lead to the donator of the clubs old and original domain name to be usurped by him and the banning vendors. Also that person went to Diablo HQ in FL to investigate accusations by a vendor named Dennis in FL and others about LMS custom tunes on chips vs. marking up and just reselling stock chips. It was never conclude a 100% to peoples satisfaction of what happened since there was a lot of bias on all sides of the arguing and people picking vendors sides. It was years ago and possibly archived on the clubs old message board that was usurped. There use to be more drama then day time TV around here. Now things are quite and normal.
 
lms was accused of reselling stock chips? this doesnt make sense? diablo sent me a thing that goes on the j3 adapter, why would they send me a bogus chip, the hardware costs the money right?
 
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