Diffs, TB plates, sway bars and zerks

bradhays

Registered
Got a few questions here so thought I'd ask them all at once.

Have a '11 Vic base model and the local shop just did an evaluation telling me all the stuff that needs looked over...

1 - REAR DIFF FLUID DIRTY - I've changed out rear diff fluid once before on my Cherokee with the Chrysler 8.25 axle. Is doing this with the Vic about the same procedure?...Take off the diff cover and catch the fluid...drain and spray out diff with brake cleaner...clean the mating surface and replace plate with new gasket, then pump new diff fluid in the hole, then plug with stopper? It's a simple procedure on the Jeep. I'm just wondering if there's any hiccups I need to be warned about before getting into it.

2 - DIRTY THROTTLE PLATE - Can I clean this using a solvent and tooth brush leaving the TB on or should I take the whole thing off to make sure nothing gets into the engine. What solvent to use?

3 - LOOSE LEFT FRONT SWAY BAR - I've got some looseness in the steering and wondering if this could be causing it. Any tricks or advice to changing this out?

4 - ZERKS - There's lots of zerks on my Jeep to be attended to every year but I'm not so sure about the Vic since I'm just getting to know the car. What zerks does the Vic have I need to be aware of and greasing?
 
1. Pretty much the same with the possible exception you may not need any gasket. If there is no gasket, clean both surfaces fully and apply a generous bead of RTV silicone. Torque the cover bolts to spec.

2. I do not believe cleaning the throttle assembly is recommended. They are usually specially coated from the factory to not need cleaning.

3. You likely just need sway bar links. Nothing special there. Any "looseness" beyond that usually indicates worn ball joints.

4. Very few. I'm not sure on a 2011 Crown Victoria but it wouldn't surprise me to be simply tie rod ends and possibly ball joints but FLM believes in "lifetime lubrication" for most of the suspension joints. You would need to check a service manual to be sure.
 
Thanks for all the advice. On the RTV...I've heard of some applications where RTV is applied and the bolts are tightened somewhat, then wait for the RTV to set up some, and then the bolts are tightened the rest of the way to spec. Would that apply here?

I haven't noticed the throttle sticking much but I haven't been looking out for it either. Here's the pic they sent...
 

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I've always just applied a bead of silicone all around the cover flange and smeared it with a finger to cover the flange surface area and slapped it on tightening the bolts in an alternating pattern.

If you're not having any symptoms related to the throttle body, I think I would leave well enough alone. The most I would consider would be an aerosol type throttle-body cleaner to spray some of the gunk away. I wouldn't use any unnecessary physical brushing or scraping. maybe lightly wiping with a cotton towel at most.
 
Yes, since I haven't noticed the throttle sticking I'm just gonna leave that valve alone until it needs attention. If it ain't broke...

And on the diff gasket, I've been told to use Motorcraft TA-29 silicone and do the same as you mentioned.

Also have advice to use some kind of additive to the diff fluid if I have limited slip but I'm not sure if I do or not.

How would I figure that out and what type of additive should I use?
 
Worn sway bar links usually cause a rattle on bumps. an easy way to check them is to hold them with your hand while someone bounces the front of the car. If they are worn, you will feel it.
 
Also have advice to use some kind of additive to the diff fluid if I have limited slip but I'm not sure if I do or not.

How would I figure that out and what type of additive should I use?

You should have a "tag" go the differential with a code that will tell you the gear ratio and if it is a limited slip differential. I'm not completely familiar with the CV but most of the panther platform vehicles had open differentials. Your owner's manual should have the details of the required fluids.
 
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