Dying Alternators 11-18 volts - Black wire (stator?) on alternator plug - where does it go? My used Mark had it broken off and tucked into the loom.

[TobiasFunke]

Hello, first post. I hope someone can help.

I got a Mark VIII 1994 non LSC. 170k miles. When I bought it the alternator was putting out only 11.2 volts so the gentleman put a new one in it. New one made 14.x so I drove it back home 40 miles no problems. After maybe 50 miles and 20 hours of idle time in driveway it was making only 11, and sometimes it would ramp up to 18v on start up and then sit around 16. So I put in a volt meter gauge and idle it with the AC running on max to keep the volts reasonable 12-15 so I can keep working on the interior and such in the driveway. The voltage does increase with RPM.

I know simple answer is get a new alternator, but I think that's just an expensive band-aid. I think this severed black wire is stressing the alternator causing them to fail. Yes re-mans suck I know.

I have spent a few hours searching for wiring diagrams showing this plug and where the wire goes. I haven't found it. ChatGPT has not been very helpful, but it seems to be a stator wire. I have no way to confirm this. I did try grounding it with small wire and it changed nothing with the voltage. I want to bypass the harness. I exposed the wires by opening the loom that the broken part was tucked into and I dont see anything that was broken off. I was expecting to see the other half of the black wire just chilling in there but nothing.

I suspect that this severed wire is causing the alternator to not make a consistent or appropriate output.

Anyone have an issue like this?

Thanks in advance for help.

 

[billcu]

The manual shows that the black wire terminates in the harness. In other words, it connects to nothing. Lincoln likes to do this sometimes, just like the radiator fan connector.

 

[TobiasFunke]

The manual shows that the black wire terminates in the harness. In other words, it connects to nothing. Lincoln likes to do this sometimes, just like the radiator fan connector.

Thank you for preventing a goose chase. Do you know where or what the fusible links look like? Im trying to find out why I keep frying alternators.

 

[driller]

Do you know where or what the fusible links look like?

If you follow the heavy gauge wire from the alternator to the power distribution box, you will find the fuse links spliced inline. There should be two in parallel. I don't have pics, but once you open the harness they are pretty obvious.

 

[TobiasFunke]

I went ahead and swapped in a $90 amazon alternator and so far its working, only 10 miles or so but 5 hours of running time with AC and such. I didn't want to try a remanufactured from the same batch. We will see what's up.

 

[driller]

I went ahead and swapped in a $90 amazon alternator and so far its working, only 10 miles or so but 5 hours of running time with AC and such. I didn't want to try a remanufactured from the same batch. We will see what's up.

I wish you the best of luck but I quickly learned to avoid remanufactured alternators. Remans are repaired to work, not necessarily last. Best bet is to find a specialty electrical repair shop in your area that rebuilds starters and alternators. They will usually rebuild the unit using quality parts and you will typically find them recommended by local enthusiasts. Unfortunately my local place shuttered soon after covid leaving me with a shelf full of alternators needing rebuilt.

Next time I would suggest you see if your local NAPA store has new alternators, not remanufactured. I have found them to be good lasting units.

 

[tixer]

I still have a dead alternator, and a rebuild kit, sitting side-by-side on a shelf in the garage. Been that way for at least two seasons now...

I need to get on that - I don't have a "known-good" spare on-hand right now, and that bothers me.