It broke! HELP!!

B

Be2lose

In title only.
Ive been trying to get a clear picture, but this camera sucks.

I've had a squeeking noise on and off now for a while. I narrowed it down to this pully. The bolt seemed tight but the pully would wobble more than I thought it should.

While i was installing a new pully the spacer part snapped off (Pic 2). The wobble issue has stripped the threads on the block side of the spacer.

It looks like the broken piece inside the block is threaded or pressed in.

What do I need to fix this?

Hope these pics help.
 
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Damn, never seen that one. You might have to stack some washers behind it to make it work. Are the threads still good, they look pretty trashed?
 
OH SNAP! haha. :) Take the bolt to the parts store and get a TAP, fix the threads with said TAP and take a grinder or file to the front of the engine to make the surface level(as in not broken and crocked). After you have it nice and level, install some washers and the new pulley without overtighening the bolt(it doesn't take much). After you install the new pulley, ensure that the pulley is straight and not angled or anything as the belt will trial to one side or just fall off completely.

It looks like the piece is pressed in, but unless you want to tear off the front of the engine, this is going to be the easiest route.
 
J said:
Take the bolt to the parts store and get a TAP, fix the threads with said TAP
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I was thinking that, but I was going to go larger. Are you saying the same size repair the threads? If so should I add something like JB weld when I install the bolt?

J said:
(it doesn't take much).
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No kidding I just got it tight when it broke!

Looks like Wed night drags are out for tomorrow.
 
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Lmao, you don't need a timing cover. :)

You "can" go bigger, maybe just one size that way it will fit snug. It looks like you have plenty of room. I would stay away from JB Weld unless all else fails. There is plenty of metal to work with, and its alluminum so it will be pretty easy. I believe a bigger bolt will fit in the pulley, but the less things you have to change, the easier it will be.
 
J said:
Lmao, you don't need a timing cover. :)
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YA YA Funny!
I was just kidding. I am trying to stay positive, by making a bad joke. Right now I feel sick!

Anyway, I have a question about centering the pulley. The bolt is much smaller than the pulley. should I thread the broken spacer on the bolt and maybe one washer then thread the bolt into the new threads?
Also I was thinking JB weld with the new threads to replace any missing metal. is that a good or bad idea?


Edit:

Now that I'm thinking about it is not a spacer that broke! The spacer is on the cover. The broken piece is just to keep the pulley center on the bolt!

Thanks J
I hope this works.
 
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Haha...thats one way to get your mind off of it, by jokes, lol. Don't get sick man...you don't have anything to worry about.

Ok, so the spacer is actually a spacer. Basically, when you tightend the bolt down, it tightends the spacer against inner hub of the bearing and than against the timing cover.

It sounds like the bolt for the pulley was possibly loose and that caused the threads to get jacked up. If that is the case, you can try tap'n the correct thread size, or go bigger. You can probably see it better in person so you make the choice.

The JB Weld idea is good, but it will be hard to accomplish because when you drill/tap JB it tends to flake if you're not careful. I wouldn't do this unless you positively have to as a last resort before swapping out timing covers.
 
When you get a tap it would be helpful to have a bottoming tap along with a regular tap to start the thread cutting... Start thread cutting with regular tap, go as deep as you can, then switch to the bottoming tap to cut the threads that can't be reached with a tapered tap.

Bottoming Tap: The tap illustrated in the top of the image has a continuous cutting edge with no taper. This feature enables a bottoming tap to cut threads to the bottom of a blind hole. A bottoming tap is never used to cut threads in an unthreaded hole, as the cutting edges lack the taper required to successfully start into such a hole.

800px-ThreadingTaps.jpg
 
He doesn't need to grab or extract anything, the bolt is complete, but the threads are completely stripped out.

Make sure when you're tapping it that there is not too much resistance. You shouldn't have to force it, but it will be rigid feeling when you do it. Also, make sure you don't try to tighten it like a bolt once you reach the end, just go all the way down and stop when it bottoms out. Its also good to use some WD-40 or PB Blaster when you're running the TAP, it will help it cut a bit better.
 
It looks like there might be something to save from a 1/4" back into the hole.

I had to order the tap, It's metric and they don't carry those here. I've orderd the correct size and one bigger incase the threads can't be saved.I will have them Wed. 4/30.
I have thread cutting oil, I've done lots of pipe threading. I think this shoud be the same except the aluminum should be alot easier. I plan to go alot slower than i would on a water or gas pipe.
 
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This is cast aluminum and it's going to act more like cast iron. The chips are going to be more like sand because of the silica in the material. Did you consider a Helicoil insert.
 
A helicoil ain't a bad idea too. :) I think the hard part with that is they probably don't have a kit for that bolt thread so you'd have to change the bolt and everything.
 
J said:
A helicoil ain't a bad idea too. :) I think the hard part with that is they probably don't have a kit for that bolt thread so you'd have to change the bolt and everything.
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That's what I ended up using. The taps I ordered were sent with fine thread. The heliciol was stocked with the correct thread and I need my car running.

I drilled out the cover piece and installed the coil.

I had to remove the fan shroud to get in with a 90 degree drill then tapped it and JB welded the broken piece that centers the pulley (I don't know what to call it) back on then bolted the pulley back on.

I have not attached the belt yet, I'm waiting for the JB to cure.

There is still a little play in the pulley, about a 1/16th or so. Is that normal?
 
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