ok, dont laugh, but im actually a Just Brakes certified Safety Expert, i worked there for about 3 years, so i KNOW my brakes and susspension/steering very well, we have extensive tests on it...
a "pulling" while braking and then correcting when letting off of the brake can be caused by several different things, the hydraulic caliper, caliper guide hardware, bearings, brake hoses with inner cracks causing "flapper" valves, and ball joints, the easiest way to check for ball joint wear is to jack the front of the car up, grip the top and bottom of the tire and check by camber pulling on the tire back and forth, there should be very very light or no play in this check, next spin the tire while holding the lower control arm as bearing vibration can be felt best at this point, remove wheel and check hoses for cracks..if there is ANY visible cracking in the hose replace immediatly, next remove the lower bolt on the caliper and flip caliper uppward allowing quick removal of the pads, hold inner and outter pad together to check them for universal wear, both pads should be same thickness from top to bottom, and also from left whel and right wheel, all pads should be same thickness, if inner pad is worn more than outter you have a binding caliper or bad hose, if outter pad is worn more than inner you have binding hardware * in which most can be just lubed with proper brake hardware lubricants*, if there is a diagonal wear it can still be due to the hardware sticking, only in this case the top, or bottom, is binding more than its mate, if caliper is binding it can be easily rebuilt with a square cut seal and dust boot kit, youll need a drill with a wire brush that fits the diameter of the piston bore hole, and use brake fluid to lubricate the bristles, simply blow out the piston either by removing from vehicle and using air ( if you choose this option youll need to wad a couple rags into the area where the pads fit as the air compressor will launch that piston out..so dampen the blow, and hold caliper with pad side downward on the ground or table, insert air blow tool into the hole where the hose fits, and blow), or by making sure that this is the only caliper unbolted, and push the brake pedal until the piston falls out, use hose clamps to retain leakage from the hose, remove caliper, clean piston and caliper of rust and rebuild *remember, use brake fluid ONLY as lube, this will help in getting the piston to slide back into the bore hole with the new seal in place) replace new dust boot into grooves, pocket sized screw drivers will aid in this step, use NEW copper bushings for the replacement of the caliper to the hose, install new pads, lube hardware and repeat on other side as brakes should always be done in PAIRS, once all back together, bleed the entire system, start bleeding procedures in sequence at right rear, left rear, right front, left front, i recommend doing it twice, make sure that there are NO bubbles, and that the fluid comes out clear. ( instructions on bleeding, with one person its a drip and watch *very slow* or 2 people, one applys slight pressure to the brake pedal as the "tech" opens the bleed valve on the TOP of the caliper *note the valves should be on the top, incase youve removed both calipers at the same time and installed on wrong side* have driver push pedal down *but not to floor as this can damage the inner seals of the master cylinder* as the valve is open to push the old fluid out, when driver stops and -holds- brake, close valve, driver pumps the brake until firm, reapply pressure, repeat until buddles are gone and fluid is clear, go to next wheel in sequence, hang tires and torque lug nuts to 100ft lbs happy motoring and please drive safetly!!
ok, dont laugh, but im actually a Just Brakes certified Safety Expert, i worked there for about 3 years, so i KNOW my brakes and susspension/steering very well, we have extensive tests on it...
a "pulling" while braking and then correcting when letting off of the brake can be caused by several different things, the hydraulic caliper, caliper guide hardware, bearings, brake hoses with inner cracks causing "flapper" valves, and ball joints, the easiest way to check for ball joint wear is to jack the front of the car up, grip the top and bottom of the tire and check by camber pulling on the tire back and forth, there should be very very light or no play in this check, next spin the tire while holding the lower control arm as bearing vibration can be felt best at this point, remove wheel and check hoses for cracks..if there is ANY visible cracking in the hose replace immediatly, next remove the lower bolt on the caliper and flip caliper uppward allowing quick removal of the pads, hold inner and outter pad together to check them for universal wear, both pads should be same thickness from top to bottom, and also from left whel and right wheel, all pads should be same thickness, if inner pad is worn more than outter you have a binding caliper or bad hose, if outter pad is worn more than inner you have binding hardware * in which most can be just lubed with proper brake hardware lubricants*, if there is a diagonal wear it can still be due to the hardware sticking, only in this case the top, or bottom, is binding more than its mate, if caliper is binding it can be easily rebuilt with a square cut seal and dust boot kit, youll need a drill with a wire brush that fits the diameter of the piston bore hole, and use brake fluid to lubricate the bristles, simply blow out the piston either by removing from vehicle and using air ( if you choose this option youll need to wad a couple rags into the area where the pads fit as the air compressor will launch that piston out..so dampen the blow, and hold caliper with pad side downward on the ground or table, insert air blow tool into the hole where the hose fits, and blow), or by making sure that this is the only caliper unbolted, and push the brake pedal until the piston falls out, use hose clamps to retain leakage from the hose, remove caliper, clean piston and caliper of rust and rebuild *remember, use brake fluid ONLY as lube, this will help in getting the piston to slide back into the bore hole with the new seal in place) replace new dust boot into grooves, pocket sized screw drivers will aid in this step, use NEW copper bushings for the replacement of the caliper to the hose, install new pads, lube hardware and repeat on other side as brakes should always be done in PAIRS, once all back together, bleed the entire system, start bleeding procedures in sequence at right rear, left rear, right front, left front, i recommend doing it twice, make sure that there are NO bubbles, and that the fluid comes out clear. ( instructions on bleeding, with one person its a drip and watch *very slow* or 2 people, one applys slight pressure to the brake pedal as the "tech" opens the bleed valve on the TOP of the caliper *note the valves should be on the top, incase youve removed both calipers at the same time and installed on wrong side* have driver push pedal down *but not to floor as this can damage the inner seals of the master cylinder* as the valve is open to push the old fluid out, when driver stops and -holds- brake, close valve, driver pumps the brake until firm, reapply pressure, repeat until buddles are gone and fluid is clear, go to next wheel in sequence, hang tires and torque lug nuts to 100ft lbs happy motoring and please drive safetly!!
BS
The ABS is only actuated as needed and isn't any cause for improper braking. The ABS only controls solenoids to control panic braking. It doesn't 'send' pressure, it only interrupts pressure.
But there could be a problem with the proportioning valve which controls the REAR brakes.
More likely the cause of any left/right pressure differences is the master cylinder. The master cylinder has primary and secondary systems as noted below.
Well after further axamination of the problem and several of brake test I saw that after doing some braking at hight speeds i noticed that the stearing wheel would shake after high speed braking.
Also while doing all this testing I noticed that while the car is rolling a squeek came out of the front driver side wheel and whent away after aplaying the brake.
So I desided to Re do My front brakes AGAIN!!
New pads and rotors.
So after that I whent to test the car out and the pulling seems to be gone from 0-50mph and after that there is a slight pull still but not as bad.
I wont know if its fixed untill I drive it some more.
Could that had been the problem?