93' Drive shaft
- Thread starter Brad
- Start date
RE: 93' Drive shaft
Yes, you have to lower the gas tank to remove the driveshaft.
From the manual:
REMOVAL
1. Drain fuel tank.
2. Raise vehicle on a frame contact hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».
3. Remove crossmember on forward side of fuel tank.
4. Remove exhaust pipe at muffler.
5. Lower exhaust pipe and support with wire.
6. Remove exhaust pipe rear insulator from exhaust pipe hanger stud.
7. Support mufflers and remove muffler rear hangers from rear frame rails, lower exhaust system and remove complete system from vehicle.
8. Remove fuel tank filler tube retaining bolt from RH frame rail.
CAUTION:
Use care not to damage tank.
9. Place a transmission jack under fuel tank.
10. Remove support on forward side of fuel tank.
11. Remove driveshaft hoop at rear of tank.
12. Remove fuel tank support straps. Lower fuel tank approximately 15 cm (6 inch).
13. Locate original paint mark on axle companion flange and mark driveshaft rear flange in same location.
NOTE:
If original mark is not visible on axle companion flange, mark both the companion flange and driveshaft rear flange.
14. Remove four driveshaft retaining bolts.
15. Separate the driveshaft from the axle companion flange. Pull the driveshaft toward the rear of the vehicle and remove. Install a plug in the transmission extension housing to prevent lubricant leakage.
Installation
1. Lubricate the slip yoke splines with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C (ESA-M1C75-B) or equivalent. Remove the plug from the transmission extension. Inspect the housing seal for damage; replace if required.
2. Install the driveshaft assembly. Do not allow the slip yoke assembly to bottom on the output shaft with excessive force.
NOTE:
When installing a new driveshaft assembly, align (factory made) yellow paint mark at rear of driveshaft tube with (factory made) yellow paint mark on outside diameter of axle companion flange. If paint marks are not visible, refer to «Section 00-04», Driveshaft Indexing.
3. Align marks on driveshaft rear flange and axle companion flange. Install and tighten four retaining bolts to 95-130 N-m (71-95 lb-ft).
4. Raise fuel tank and install support straps. Tighten retaining bolts to 29-41 N-m (22-30 lb-ft).
5. Install fuel tank filler tube retaining bolt. Tighten retaining bolt to 2.7-3.7 N-m (16-23 lb-in).
6. Install driveshaft hoop. Tighten the two retaining bolts to 14-22 N-m (20-30 lb-ft).
7. Install support on forward side of fuel tank. Tighten bolts to 20-30 N-m (14-22 lb-ft).
8. Raise exhaust pipe and support with wire.
9. Support mufflers and install muffler rear hangers to rear frame rails. Tighten retainer bolts to 17-23 N-m (13-16 lb-ft).
10. Install exhaust pipe to muffler. Tighten bolts to 28-40 N-m (21-29 lb-ft).
11. Install exhaust pipe hangers at rear axle.
12. Install crossmember on forward side of fuel tank. Tighten bolts to 16-24 N-m (12-17 lb-ft).
13. Lower vehicle.
For some reason Brad, I thought you had a '93 and therefore you had a one-piece driveshaft, but now I see you have a '94 and apparently have a two-piece driveshaft. Anyways, all I can do is relate my experience and offer my opinion. Here it goes...
I purchased a used center section and traction-lock. I built my 4.10s using the used parts and new gears with installation kit and a rebuild kit for the traction-lock. I then swapped the center section from my '93 to the one I built with the 4.10s. Some time later after I had the exhaust installed, I finally had the opportunity to drive on the interstate. It wasn't until then I noticed the driveline had a vibration I had not seen before.
To best describe the extent of the vibration, at 70 MPH you could begin to see it manifest itself in the rear view mirror. Not much but you could detect it. It also seemed slightly variable with the engine torque. By 80 MPH there was no missing it, you could begin to actually feel it and it was much worse at the rear view mirror by now. At 90 MPH or more there was no doubt, the whole car was vibrating. Again the intensity was dependant upon the torque at the time.
As luck would have it, this was also precisely the time Thomas A. started a group buy on the DynoTech MMx driveshaft from Reinhart. Now I had a decision to make if I was going to take advantage of this group buy. I started with no intentions of having to purchase a driveshaft since I had the early '93 design one-piece driveshaft. But now I had a driveline issue and I could live with it or do something about it. Firstly, I really don't drive my Mark VIII much, certainly not as much as I want, and secondly, the vast majority of my driving is 2 lane rural roads where I would never have a problem. A small fraction of the time would be highway driving at 70-80 MPH and I could resolve to keep my speeds such it wouldn't really be too bad. Bottom line, one option was to just live with it.
After talking to several knowledgeable people and doing some research, I became convinced the driveline issues were a result of not just the gears and the resulting higher driveshaft rpms, but the entire driveline assembly taken as a whole. That is to say the transmission, driveshaft, center section and half-shafts all combined to a cumulative resonance which manifested itself in the most flexible member, the driveshaft. Previously, I had no vibrations whatsoever even at rare triple digit speeds, so I had falsely assumed my one-piece driveshaft would be just fine. After more consultation and studying, I became convinced I could remove the driveshaft, install new universal joints and have the driveshaft rebalanced. Then I could reinstall the driveshaft, indexing it at the pinion flange. Through trial and error, then I would test the setup rotating the driveshaft alignment to the pinion flange at each of the possible four locations, selecting then the location with the least detectable vibration. If further was required, I could then follow the procedures outlined in the manual for fine tune balancing the driveshaft on the car. This basically involves clamping hose clamps to the driveshaft and arranging the location on the driveshaft to compensate and negate any vibrations.
That was my initial instinct, afterall, I surely didn't have $430(plus more for installation) burning a hole in my pocket. But I did realize I could save a little money with the group buy, but I felt most confident I could save a lot of my time just going ahead and biting the bullet and getting the MMx driveshaft. For me, that was the determining factor - my time. I would much rather get it over with and enjoy driving my Mark VIII rather than laying underneath it on a creeper! So as they say, the rest is history, I bought the DynoTech driveshaft.
After receiving the driveshaft, I contemplated installing it myself... until I looked under the car and seen the still shiny newly installed dual exhaust. They were definitely going to have to be dropped to lower the fuel tank. The fuel tank didn't bother me, but the exhaust did. Who better to install the driveshaft but the man who had just installed the exhaust! After all he was experienced at lowering the tank as well, since he had also installed a fuel pump for me when he did the exhaust. :+
Now I can enjoy my Mark VIII in all its high speed glory. :7
BTW, IF you are interested in a '93 one-piece driveshaft, I just happen to have one advertised in the for sale section: http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/d...pic&forum=59&topic_id=1216&mesg_id=1216&page=
Yes, you have to lower the gas tank to remove the driveshaft.
From the manual:
REMOVAL
1. Drain fuel tank.
2. Raise vehicle on a frame contact hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».
3. Remove crossmember on forward side of fuel tank.
4. Remove exhaust pipe at muffler.
5. Lower exhaust pipe and support with wire.
6. Remove exhaust pipe rear insulator from exhaust pipe hanger stud.
7. Support mufflers and remove muffler rear hangers from rear frame rails, lower exhaust system and remove complete system from vehicle.
8. Remove fuel tank filler tube retaining bolt from RH frame rail.
CAUTION:
Use care not to damage tank.
9. Place a transmission jack under fuel tank.
10. Remove support on forward side of fuel tank.
11. Remove driveshaft hoop at rear of tank.
12. Remove fuel tank support straps. Lower fuel tank approximately 15 cm (6 inch).
13. Locate original paint mark on axle companion flange and mark driveshaft rear flange in same location.
NOTE:
If original mark is not visible on axle companion flange, mark both the companion flange and driveshaft rear flange.
14. Remove four driveshaft retaining bolts.
15. Separate the driveshaft from the axle companion flange. Pull the driveshaft toward the rear of the vehicle and remove. Install a plug in the transmission extension housing to prevent lubricant leakage.
Installation
1. Lubricate the slip yoke splines with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C (ESA-M1C75-B) or equivalent. Remove the plug from the transmission extension. Inspect the housing seal for damage; replace if required.
2. Install the driveshaft assembly. Do not allow the slip yoke assembly to bottom on the output shaft with excessive force.
NOTE:
When installing a new driveshaft assembly, align (factory made) yellow paint mark at rear of driveshaft tube with (factory made) yellow paint mark on outside diameter of axle companion flange. If paint marks are not visible, refer to «Section 00-04», Driveshaft Indexing.
3. Align marks on driveshaft rear flange and axle companion flange. Install and tighten four retaining bolts to 95-130 N-m (71-95 lb-ft).
4. Raise fuel tank and install support straps. Tighten retaining bolts to 29-41 N-m (22-30 lb-ft).
5. Install fuel tank filler tube retaining bolt. Tighten retaining bolt to 2.7-3.7 N-m (16-23 lb-in).
6. Install driveshaft hoop. Tighten the two retaining bolts to 14-22 N-m (20-30 lb-ft).
7. Install support on forward side of fuel tank. Tighten bolts to 20-30 N-m (14-22 lb-ft).
8. Raise exhaust pipe and support with wire.
9. Support mufflers and install muffler rear hangers to rear frame rails. Tighten retainer bolts to 17-23 N-m (13-16 lb-ft).
10. Install exhaust pipe to muffler. Tighten bolts to 28-40 N-m (21-29 lb-ft).
11. Install exhaust pipe hangers at rear axle.
12. Install crossmember on forward side of fuel tank. Tighten bolts to 16-24 N-m (12-17 lb-ft).
13. Lower vehicle.
For some reason Brad, I thought you had a '93 and therefore you had a one-piece driveshaft, but now I see you have a '94 and apparently have a two-piece driveshaft. Anyways, all I can do is relate my experience and offer my opinion. Here it goes...
I purchased a used center section and traction-lock. I built my 4.10s using the used parts and new gears with installation kit and a rebuild kit for the traction-lock. I then swapped the center section from my '93 to the one I built with the 4.10s. Some time later after I had the exhaust installed, I finally had the opportunity to drive on the interstate. It wasn't until then I noticed the driveline had a vibration I had not seen before.
To best describe the extent of the vibration, at 70 MPH you could begin to see it manifest itself in the rear view mirror. Not much but you could detect it. It also seemed slightly variable with the engine torque. By 80 MPH there was no missing it, you could begin to actually feel it and it was much worse at the rear view mirror by now. At 90 MPH or more there was no doubt, the whole car was vibrating. Again the intensity was dependant upon the torque at the time.
As luck would have it, this was also precisely the time Thomas A. started a group buy on the DynoTech MMx driveshaft from Reinhart. Now I had a decision to make if I was going to take advantage of this group buy. I started with no intentions of having to purchase a driveshaft since I had the early '93 design one-piece driveshaft. But now I had a driveline issue and I could live with it or do something about it. Firstly, I really don't drive my Mark VIII much, certainly not as much as I want, and secondly, the vast majority of my driving is 2 lane rural roads where I would never have a problem. A small fraction of the time would be highway driving at 70-80 MPH and I could resolve to keep my speeds such it wouldn't really be too bad. Bottom line, one option was to just live with it.
After talking to several knowledgeable people and doing some research, I became convinced the driveline issues were a result of not just the gears and the resulting higher driveshaft rpms, but the entire driveline assembly taken as a whole. That is to say the transmission, driveshaft, center section and half-shafts all combined to a cumulative resonance which manifested itself in the most flexible member, the driveshaft. Previously, I had no vibrations whatsoever even at rare triple digit speeds, so I had falsely assumed my one-piece driveshaft would be just fine. After more consultation and studying, I became convinced I could remove the driveshaft, install new universal joints and have the driveshaft rebalanced. Then I could reinstall the driveshaft, indexing it at the pinion flange. Through trial and error, then I would test the setup rotating the driveshaft alignment to the pinion flange at each of the possible four locations, selecting then the location with the least detectable vibration. If further was required, I could then follow the procedures outlined in the manual for fine tune balancing the driveshaft on the car. This basically involves clamping hose clamps to the driveshaft and arranging the location on the driveshaft to compensate and negate any vibrations.
That was my initial instinct, afterall, I surely didn't have $430(plus more for installation) burning a hole in my pocket. But I did realize I could save a little money with the group buy, but I felt most confident I could save a lot of my time just going ahead and biting the bullet and getting the MMx driveshaft. For me, that was the determining factor - my time. I would much rather get it over with and enjoy driving my Mark VIII rather than laying underneath it on a creeper! So as they say, the rest is history, I bought the DynoTech driveshaft.
After receiving the driveshaft, I contemplated installing it myself... until I looked under the car and seen the still shiny newly installed dual exhaust. They were definitely going to have to be dropped to lower the fuel tank. The fuel tank didn't bother me, but the exhaust did. Who better to install the driveshaft but the man who had just installed the exhaust! After all he was experienced at lowering the tank as well, since he had also installed a fuel pump for me when he did the exhaust. :+
Now I can enjoy my Mark VIII in all its high speed glory. :7
BTW, IF you are interested in a '93 one-piece driveshaft, I just happen to have one advertised in the for sale section: http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/d...pic&forum=59&topic_id=1216&mesg_id=1216&page=
M8SHOSCGUY
Registered
RE: 93' Drive shaft
I'm from Missouri and am trying the Cheapo approach. 4.10's with a totally rebuild carrier Assy (All new bearings, pinion and ring gear, Frictions, Steels), '93 One Piece shaft with new solid U-Joints (no grease fittings), New Trans rear bushing with Jerry's Oil mod, New PolyG Carrier bushings, PolyG trans mounts, and New Solid Engine Mounts. I'm not going to have the shaft balanced. With all the new stuff, if it vibes it's clearly the shaft. I think a lot of the One Piece shaft vibe problems are because of other things. I'll let you all know.
mark
I'm from Missouri and am trying the Cheapo approach. 4.10's with a totally rebuild carrier Assy (All new bearings, pinion and ring gear, Frictions, Steels), '93 One Piece shaft with new solid U-Joints (no grease fittings), New Trans rear bushing with Jerry's Oil mod, New PolyG Carrier bushings, PolyG trans mounts, and New Solid Engine Mounts. I'm not going to have the shaft balanced. With all the new stuff, if it vibes it's clearly the shaft. I think a lot of the One Piece shaft vibe problems are because of other things. I'll let you all know.
mark
M8SHOSCGUY
Registered
RE: 93' Drive shaft
Just stubborn I guess.. proving a point? I know I have a good shaft. I've never had a shaft balance problem in my '69 mustang with 4.10's after swapping U-Joints. Of course it's a shorter shaft and steel. I will say, any shaft mis-alignment caused by carrier bushings, trans mounts, engine mounts, trans bushing, U-Joints etc. will Greatly amplify (Multiply not Add) or cause any latent vibe issues. U-Joints don't balance unless perfectly on center. If they'd used CV joints instead, this wouldn't be an issue. There are too many other potential alignment/off center problems with a 10 year old car to blame a vibe problem on a gram of off balance. With a perfect shaft these alignment issues are less important.
Crotchety Old Fart..
mark
Just stubborn I guess.. proving a point? I know I have a good shaft. I've never had a shaft balance problem in my '69 mustang with 4.10's after swapping U-Joints. Of course it's a shorter shaft and steel. I will say, any shaft mis-alignment caused by carrier bushings, trans mounts, engine mounts, trans bushing, U-Joints etc. will Greatly amplify (Multiply not Add) or cause any latent vibe issues. U-Joints don't balance unless perfectly on center. If they'd used CV joints instead, this wouldn't be an issue. There are too many other potential alignment/off center problems with a 10 year old car to blame a vibe problem on a gram of off balance. With a perfect shaft these alignment issues are less important.
Crotchety Old Fart..
mark
RE: 93' Drive shaft
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
... I will say, any shaft mis-alignment caused by carrier bushings, trans mounts, engine mounts, trans bushing, U-Joints etc. will Greatly amplify (Multiply not Add) or cause any latent vibe issues. U-Joints don't balance unless perfectly on center. If they'd used CV joints instead, this wouldn't be an issue. There are too many other potential alignment/off center problems with a 10 year old car to blame a vibe problem on a gram of off balance. With a perfect shaft these alignment issues are less important.
[/div]
I realize all the alignment/mounting issues you mention amplify any vibrations. And you are absolutely correct on saying there are too many other potential alignment/off center problems with a 10 year old car.
That being said, it makes one marvel the degree of perfection in a driveshaft such as the Dynotech Metal Matrix that could allow it to overcome these shortcomings. Obviously the selection of shaft material is one element, but dynamic balancing to 8,000 RPM at less than 0.20 oz-in balance specification in todays' "that's good enough" workplace mentality is something to admire as well. When I installed my 4.10's, I only replaced the carrier bushings and did nothing to transmission mounts, engine mounts, transmission bushing, U-Joints, etc. After installation of the MMx driveshaft I still have the same transmission mounts, engine mounts and transmission bushing. So any mounting or other contributing factors are still there with the obvious exception of universal joints.
It goes with what I said before, the shaft wants to vibrate not only at its own critical speed but can be induced to vibrate by many other driveline components as well. I believe universal joints play a critical factor as well. Here again you have selection of quality components in the typical MMx driveshaft but you also have universal joint clearance tolerances that are held to less than 0.002 inches. Anyone familiar with machine work will recognize the degree of quality control in that one number. I believe it also shows the importance of universal joints in contributing to vibration issues.
I wish you luck with your plans, and maybe you won't need your driveshaft balanced - but I'm the type that would have it done since it's out. My problem was finding a place to do high speed balancing. I think the max I found was like 5000 rpm. At my vibration 'detection' speed of 70 MPH with the 4.10s, my driveshaft speed was around 3600 rpm. In balance at 5000 rpm would equate to 97 MPH with the 4.10s. I figured I could live with that. However, 8000 rpm at the driveshaft equates to 154 mph with the 4.10s!
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
... I will say, any shaft mis-alignment caused by carrier bushings, trans mounts, engine mounts, trans bushing, U-Joints etc. will Greatly amplify (Multiply not Add) or cause any latent vibe issues. U-Joints don't balance unless perfectly on center. If they'd used CV joints instead, this wouldn't be an issue. There are too many other potential alignment/off center problems with a 10 year old car to blame a vibe problem on a gram of off balance. With a perfect shaft these alignment issues are less important.
[/div]
I realize all the alignment/mounting issues you mention amplify any vibrations. And you are absolutely correct on saying there are too many other potential alignment/off center problems with a 10 year old car.
That being said, it makes one marvel the degree of perfection in a driveshaft such as the Dynotech Metal Matrix that could allow it to overcome these shortcomings. Obviously the selection of shaft material is one element, but dynamic balancing to 8,000 RPM at less than 0.20 oz-in balance specification in todays' "that's good enough" workplace mentality is something to admire as well. When I installed my 4.10's, I only replaced the carrier bushings and did nothing to transmission mounts, engine mounts, transmission bushing, U-Joints, etc. After installation of the MMx driveshaft I still have the same transmission mounts, engine mounts and transmission bushing. So any mounting or other contributing factors are still there with the obvious exception of universal joints.
It goes with what I said before, the shaft wants to vibrate not only at its own critical speed but can be induced to vibrate by many other driveline components as well. I believe universal joints play a critical factor as well. Here again you have selection of quality components in the typical MMx driveshaft but you also have universal joint clearance tolerances that are held to less than 0.002 inches. Anyone familiar with machine work will recognize the degree of quality control in that one number. I believe it also shows the importance of universal joints in contributing to vibration issues.
I wish you luck with your plans, and maybe you won't need your driveshaft balanced - but I'm the type that would have it done since it's out. My problem was finding a place to do high speed balancing. I think the max I found was like 5000 rpm. At my vibration 'detection' speed of 70 MPH with the 4.10s, my driveshaft speed was around 3600 rpm. In balance at 5000 rpm would equate to 97 MPH with the 4.10s. I figured I could live with that. However, 8000 rpm at the driveshaft equates to 154 mph with the 4.10s!
M8SHOSCGUY
Registered
RE: 93' Drive shaft
I agree with all you said driller.. I'm gonna try, worst case is I have to take it back out and fork out more $$ either in a balance job or a MMX. Some have had success with the '93 shaft with 4.10s, and in most cases didn't correct the slop/mis-alignment issues. Like you, finding a place to balance it locally isn't easy, and your RPM estimates are right on. This test could be good info for the club if it works and I can go over 100 MPH w/o vibes. Guess I'm going to be the guinea pig on this one. Thanks for your knowlegable comments.
mark
I agree with all you said driller.. I'm gonna try, worst case is I have to take it back out and fork out more $$ either in a balance job or a MMX. Some have had success with the '93 shaft with 4.10s, and in most cases didn't correct the slop/mis-alignment issues. Like you, finding a place to balance it locally isn't easy, and your RPM estimates are right on. This test could be good info for the club if it works and I can go over 100 MPH w/o vibes. Guess I'm going to be the guinea pig on this one. Thanks for your knowlegable comments.
mark
RE: 93' Drive shaft
The vibrations in the drivetrain attributed to the driveshaft have less to do with out of balance driveshafts as it has to do with [link:www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/page17.shtml| Driveline Critical Speed]
This phenomenon can be devastating on the rest of your drive train.
http://members.tccoa.com/lastmrk/Images/lastmrk2.jpg
The vibrations in the drivetrain attributed to the driveshaft have less to do with out of balance driveshafts as it has to do with [link:www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/page17.shtml| Driveline Critical Speed]
This phenomenon can be devastating on the rest of your drive train.
http://members.tccoa.com/lastmrk/Images/lastmrk2.jpg
Stealthy96
Registered
RE: 93' Drive shaft
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
One Piece shaft with new solid U-Joints (no grease fittings), New Trans rear bushing with Jerry's Oil mod, New PolyG Carrier bushings, PolyG trans mounts, and New Solid Engine Mounts.
[/div]
Where did you get the PolyG trans mounts and solid engine mounts? Ford wants big bucks for the stock engine mounts.
Thx
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
One Piece shaft with new solid U-Joints (no grease fittings), New Trans rear bushing with Jerry's Oil mod, New PolyG Carrier bushings, PolyG trans mounts, and New Solid Engine Mounts.
[/div]
Where did you get the PolyG trans mounts and solid engine mounts? Ford wants big bucks for the stock engine mounts.
Thx
M8SHOSCGUY
Registered
RE: 93' Drive shaft
MN12 Performance has the Poly-G carrier and Trans cross member bushings. He said our Trans Mount in the VIII was already the good (Not Fluid Filled) stuff. He also has the Engine mounts (Solid Rubber, not Fluid Filled).
mark
MN12 Performance has the Poly-G carrier and Trans cross member bushings. He said our Trans Mount in the VIII was already the good (Not Fluid Filled) stuff. He also has the Engine mounts (Solid Rubber, not Fluid Filled).
mark