ABS Pump Running 90 seconds?
- Thread starter BOB340
- Start date
Greenemachine
Registered
RE: ABS Pump Running 90 seconds?
thats probally the air suspension pump you hear filling the bags.
thats probally the air suspension pump you hear filling the bags.
Frankie X
Registered
RE: ABS Pump Running 90 seconds?
Chances are very, very, slim it's your brake pump. Any incorrect pump run sequence will trigger the ABS/ Traction Control warnings.
I agree with everybody else. It's the suspension compressor. Start looking for leaks.
The simplest way? 50/50 mix of dish liquid and water in a spray pump bottle.
Turn off the suspension.
Lift the car.
Spray down all bags and accessible lines.
Look for bubbles!
This method is by no means foolproof. Sometimes bags must be in a very specific position before the leak becomes evident, but it's the best place to start.
Chances are very, very, slim it's your brake pump. Any incorrect pump run sequence will trigger the ABS/ Traction Control warnings.
I agree with everybody else. It's the suspension compressor. Start looking for leaks.
The simplest way? 50/50 mix of dish liquid and water in a spray pump bottle.
Turn off the suspension.
Lift the car.
Spray down all bags and accessible lines.
Look for bubbles!
This method is by no means foolproof. Sometimes bags must be in a very specific position before the leak becomes evident, but it's the best place to start.
RE: ABS Pump Running 90 seconds?
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
It is NOT the suspension pump. It is absolutly the ABSpump. I have the check traction control message.
[/div]
Bob, you gotta tell us these things! I couldn't see the 'check traction control' message from here. :7
Frankie knows these OBDII issues better than most. It sounds to me like a problem with the ABS module? I would get the sytem scanned for codes first.
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
It is NOT the suspension pump. It is absolutly the ABSpump. I have the check traction control message.
[/div]
Bob, you gotta tell us these things! I couldn't see the 'check traction control' message from here. :7
Frankie knows these OBDII issues better than most. It sounds to me like a problem with the ABS module? I would get the sytem scanned for codes first.
Frankie X
Registered
RE: ABS Pump Running 90 seconds?
Bob, don't guess! Get the ABS/TC scanned.
As an example of what you might be up against, check out this thread:
http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/d...pic&forum=19&topic_id=2644&mesg_id=2644&page=
Let us all know what codes you get so there's some roadsigns to follow!
Bob, don't guess! Get the ABS/TC scanned.
As an example of what you might be up against, check out this thread:
http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/d...pic&forum=19&topic_id=2644&mesg_id=2644&page=
Let us all know what codes you get so there's some roadsigns to follow!
RE: ABS Pump Running 90 seconds?
OK. here's what I've done so far, pulled codes and found 2 codes.
B1342, faulty control module, & B1676, Battery voltage out of range.
I was able to get & try 2 used ABS modules...all three give me the same "check traction control"
Since I have tried 2 more ABS modules (used) should I go for brand new or see if I have something corroded under there?
B1676 does not make sense, charging systems checks out fine.
OK. here's what I've done so far, pulled codes and found 2 codes.
B1342, faulty control module, & B1676, Battery voltage out of range.
I was able to get & try 2 used ABS modules...all three give me the same "check traction control"
Since I have tried 2 more ABS modules (used) should I go for brand new or see if I have something corroded under there?
B1676 does not make sense, charging systems checks out fine.
RE: ABS Pump Running 90 seconds?
Sounds to me like maybe the ABS module or some connected component is not getting the proper voltage? I would look for corrosion at any harness connectors and ground points. I'm not educated enough on the OBDII to help much further.
Sounds to me like maybe the ABS module or some connected component is not getting the proper voltage? I would look for corrosion at any harness connectors and ground points. I'm not educated enough on the OBDII to help much further.
Frankie X
Registered
RE: ABS Pump Running 90 seconds?
Wow! Very strange!
B1342 is (allegedly) a fool-proof, no questions asked code. Upon initialization of an OBDII scan of any given module, the first thing that module does is go through an internal self-test. It's looking at its own hardware and software first. If it cannot pass a very specific series of self checks, an "ECU Internal Fail" code is set. When this code is set, the shop manual has no Pinpoint Tests or diagnostic steps. The ONLY response is, "Replace module and retest". I personally have never seen any outside problems create an "Internal Failure" code.
Now, that being said, before you rush out and buy another module, let's see if we can address the B1676 for a moment. It's possible there's a supply problem that's baffling the ABS/TC control.
B1676 doesn't necessarily mean the entire vehicle has a low voltage problem (although that could sometimes be the case). It means the ABS/TC module saw its supply voltage go below 10v.
Corrosion = high resistance = low voltage.
Look at the module connector very carefully. Clean it out with DeOxit or other contact cleaner.
While you've got it unplugged, do a few voltage checks. Don't just use a test light. Use a voltmeter and compare to voltage across the battery:
Fuse 20 - underhood box - feeds constant power to the Red wire (position 25 in connector)
Fuse 21 - underhood box - feeds constant power to Tan/Red (position 9)
Fuse 21 - underdash box - feeds KEYED power to Light Blue/Pink (position 23)
Ground = Black wire (position 24) - Check resistance to battery negative. The ground eyelet is at G103, near the battery tray, but at that point it's also the ground for left headlights and PCM/Fuel pump relays. If you do have poor ground at the connector, the problem's probably in the harness. If it is just a loose eyelet bolt, the other things should be affected too.
If all powers and the ground are good, there's hardly any other choice. The problem's internal.
Really, though, what's the chances of TWO other modules having internal failures? I suppose it's possible with used parts?
Good luck, Bob. Keep us posted!
(BTW, those colours are what I'm used to seeing, but I just checked the Online Workshop Manual, which is a different animal than the EVTM wiring diagrams. It has the same positions, but lists them as having different colours:
Pin 25 = LB/PK
Pin 9 = also LB/PK??
Pin 23 = Grey/Yellow
I don't believe these for a second, but just in case.....)
Wow! Very strange!
B1342 is (allegedly) a fool-proof, no questions asked code. Upon initialization of an OBDII scan of any given module, the first thing that module does is go through an internal self-test. It's looking at its own hardware and software first. If it cannot pass a very specific series of self checks, an "ECU Internal Fail" code is set. When this code is set, the shop manual has no Pinpoint Tests or diagnostic steps. The ONLY response is, "Replace module and retest". I personally have never seen any outside problems create an "Internal Failure" code.
Now, that being said, before you rush out and buy another module, let's see if we can address the B1676 for a moment. It's possible there's a supply problem that's baffling the ABS/TC control.
B1676 doesn't necessarily mean the entire vehicle has a low voltage problem (although that could sometimes be the case). It means the ABS/TC module saw its supply voltage go below 10v.
Corrosion = high resistance = low voltage.
Look at the module connector very carefully. Clean it out with DeOxit or other contact cleaner.
While you've got it unplugged, do a few voltage checks. Don't just use a test light. Use a voltmeter and compare to voltage across the battery:
Fuse 20 - underhood box - feeds constant power to the Red wire (position 25 in connector)
Fuse 21 - underhood box - feeds constant power to Tan/Red (position 9)
Fuse 21 - underdash box - feeds KEYED power to Light Blue/Pink (position 23)
Ground = Black wire (position 24) - Check resistance to battery negative. The ground eyelet is at G103, near the battery tray, but at that point it's also the ground for left headlights and PCM/Fuel pump relays. If you do have poor ground at the connector, the problem's probably in the harness. If it is just a loose eyelet bolt, the other things should be affected too.
If all powers and the ground are good, there's hardly any other choice. The problem's internal.
Really, though, what's the chances of TWO other modules having internal failures? I suppose it's possible with used parts?
Good luck, Bob. Keep us posted!
(BTW, those colours are what I'm used to seeing, but I just checked the Online Workshop Manual, which is a different animal than the EVTM wiring diagrams. It has the same positions, but lists them as having different colours:
Pin 25 = LB/PK
Pin 9 = also LB/PK??
Pin 23 = Grey/Yellow
I don't believe these for a second, but just in case.....)
Frankie X
Registered
RE: ABS Pump Running 90 seconds?
DeOxit is just a brand name I'm used to, like "Kleenex" = any facial tissue.
What I mean is any good spray contact cleaner/corrosion remover. Yes, Radio shack is a good place to go.
It doesn't take much to affect OBDII voltages at any given connection. Even if you don't see green at a pin, contact may still be poor. If it seems to be only discoloured black, that could be enough to cause a problem. Spray until a nice copper colour comes back to be sure of good conduction.
DeOxit is just a brand name I'm used to, like "Kleenex" = any facial tissue.
What I mean is any good spray contact cleaner/corrosion remover. Yes, Radio shack is a good place to go.
It doesn't take much to affect OBDII voltages at any given connection. Even if you don't see green at a pin, contact may still be poor. If it seems to be only discoloured black, that could be enough to cause a problem. Spray until a nice copper colour comes back to be sure of good conduction.