RE: ABS scan says" check ABS pump mtr" what does this mean??
RE: ABS scan says" check ABS pump mtr" what does this mean??
Hooboy, Jesse! C1095 is a big buck code! I don't know how much long distance help I can give you on this one.
Here's a little background to help you understand what you're dealing with:
The ABS/TC control assembly is mounted in the driver's fender under the battery. It consists of two pieces bolted together- the HCU (Hydraulic Control Unit) and ECU (Electronic Control unit). They can be split apart and puchased separately. Here's the copy-and-paste from the manual:
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"ANTILOCK BRAKE CONTROL MODULE:
The anti-lock brake control module is mounted to the HCU.
It is an On Board Diagnostic, replaceable unit consisting of two microprocessors and the necessary circuitry for their operation. The anti-lock brake control module monitors system operation during normal driving as well as during anti-lock braking and traction control cycling, if equipped.
Anti-lock brake control module operation is as follows:
Under normal driving conditions, the microprocessor produces short test pulses to the solenoid valves that check the electrical system without any mechanical reaction.
Impending wheel lock conditions trigger signals from the anti-lock brake control module that open and close the appropriate solenoid valves. This results in moderate pulsations in the brake pedal (2455) .
During normal braking, the brake pedal feel will be identical to a standard brake system.
Most faults which occur to the anti-lock brake system and the traction control will be stored as a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) in the keep-alive memory of the anti-lock brake control module. The DTCs can be retrieved by following the on-board diagnostic procedures. Refer to Diagnosis and Testing.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT:
The HCU is located outside of the engine compartment on a bracket attached to the outer frame rail. It consists of the following components:
Brake pressure control valve block.
Pump motor.
Operation of the HCU is as follows:
During normal braking, fluid passes through four normally open inlet valves, one to each wheel.
If the anti-lock brake control module senses a wheel is about to lock, it pulses the appropriate inlet valve which closes that valve. This prevents any more fluid from entering the affected brake.
The anti-lock brake control module then looks at that wheel again. If it is still decelerating, it opens the closed outlet valve which decreases the pressure trapped in the line.
The traction control portion of the brake pressure control valve block contains two isolation valves for traction control function, one for the primary circuit and one for the secondary circuit. The isolation valves close during traction control operation to prevent front brake application.
The brake pressure control valve block and pump motor are replaced as an assembly"
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Every time you start your car and begin driving, at ~12MPH, the module does a self-test and turns the pump on for .5sec. to make sure it works. Yours doesn't, obviously, and the light comes on and a code is set.
Now, what do we do about this?
Two things could be happening; either the module has an internal fault and can't turn the pump on, or the pump is defective and won't turn on when commanded (based on past experiences, that's where my money is). A scan tool capable of "Active Command" which can take manual control of the module's functions is needed to follow a specific series of pinpoint tests to tell which it is.
Here's a simple driveway test:
Fuses 20 and 21 in your underhood fusebox power the pump and module. See if either are blown. If so, this would be an indication the motor is drawing too much current. I suppose this could also indicate shorted wiring, but the harness down to the control assembly is very well protected, so I kinda doubt that.
I suggest you follow Kurt's advice and find a used control assemby. If you replace both pieces, does it matter which one is at fault? As Kurt mentioned, when you do replace it, a scan tool MUST be used to perform an Electronic HCU Bleed or you'll never get the air out of the internal valve chambers.
C'mon, LOD! If anybody is parting out a '98 (no other year will work), could you help poor Jesse find a known good control assembly?