Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

M

M8SHOSCGUY

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Thought I recommend a nice stockish Gen 1 Mod. I know alot about these cars, if you buy ones, know what's involved.. i This is about Gen1's Only, don't know Gen 2's..
What's worn out if a Gen 1 original, plan on this unless you have an Arizona car that’s been garaged kept.

1) Upper Control Arms: They're gone at 80K... Buy MOOG UCA's
2) Inner Tie RODs.. Never had a recent ford that didn't need inner tie-rods. It's practically guaranteed. Moog replacements have the large ball (Much stronger) afermarket replacement.
3) Likely the Lower Control Arms are good. Check the strut bushings however. Some discussion about stock vs. Moog strut bushings.
4) Lots of T-Bird parts fit.. Not upper Control arms unless you feel like welding on the Height sensor bracket.
4) Rear Sway Bar is Likely rusted out.. It’s hollow and rusts from inside out.
5) Get some gear with TL. Buy some X-Mustang 3.73 gears, a TL rear.. be sure to keep track of the original shims that went with your stock case. Ford gears are consistent as heck. Just replace the stock case shims, check the pattern, and you don’t need the full $300 gear set up at a machine shot. Two down with this technicqe, no problems yet..
6) Don’t be afraid of using a Mustang Non-IRS rear in a MK8, aluminum IRS case. Those stupid clips that apparentlmay hold the half shafts into the case are totally worthless. If the control arms don’t hold the shafts in, nothing will. The clips are worthless.
7) Change the Tran Fluid with Mercon 5, Immediately. Be sure to drain the Torque converter Don’t matter what year.. if you puit in Mercon 3, or some one size fit’s all fluic. it’s called Tranny Destruction. Mercon 5 or park it.
8) If you have a ’93 (Have one), be sure to get a ’94 (have one) ntake tube. The ’93 has
9) Get rid of the Snorkle Tube!!! Remove the RF inner fender guard, Remove the large box, and Snorkle through the Front Bumper steel.
10) Put in a HD2 Trans-Go shift kit. You can get these off of a favorite auction site for like $65 shipped.
11) Get a ’93 one piece driveshaft.. the ’94 and later is a two piece t.
hat vibes bad.
12) If your car hasn’t had the fuel pump replaced at 120k miles, plan on it. Ford electric FP’s die at 100K Will cause lots of performance issues if it’s marginal and will dump you if it gets stressed. Walbro’s 255 LPH pumps are a tad noisier, but plug right in.
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

13) 245 50-16 tires fit on all 4's. No hitting at all although if you're lowered, I can't say.
14) After you change to a complete fill of Mercon 5, consider a trans cooler.. only consider a plate type cooler, that's mounted in fron of the AC condenser.
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

15) MSD wires. ~100 from Summit. They fit great, and zero issues, although some say they'll blow off due to a lack of air vent near the top. Mine are great however.
16) Get a hypertech 160 degree thermostat. That's 30 degrees cooler and will make your oil last longer, while the "Delta T" goes up, increasing HP.
17 Immediately swithch to a Motorcraft 820S oil filter, and Mobil 1. Fixed my chain rattle quite nicely.. If the first change doesn't quite stop it, hang in there for a second.
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

EGR tube, driver's side.. Major complain of an apparent exhaust leak. The accordian tube is cracked and leaking exhaust. Careful removing the fitting from the driver's side catalytic. It's easy to stip and will rack your brain as to how to fix. Wish there was aftermarket.. but it's $80 from the dealer..
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

Upper rear Shock Mounts. If it's a Gen1, you got a heck of a rattle out back. Dealer is $80 a pair, but there is some discussion on here about modifying the mounts for cheap poly mount bushings.. They need to be replaced. Also the lower shock mount may be loose. Often a washer will take the slop outs. Any slop in the rear half shafts and you're bound to be bouncin' down the road. The ones on the '93 with 165K had about 3/16" rotational slop. If you're pickey, you can get rebuilt original Ford half shafts for around $105 each. Be sure to get rebuild Ford's. They tried to sell me brand new Light Duty CV joints for the same cost. They both had the same part nmber, send back the Light duty crap. Rebuilt FOMOCO only here.
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

Late model ('97/'98) only. They're thicker, fit perfectly, and won't warp like the stock Gen1 rotors. Quality costs no more.

mark
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

You have a passenger side water leak? Puddles on honey's feet ? The leak is the foam "seal" under the cowl. You need to remove the windshield wiper assembly, and seal it up.

mark
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

Non JBL sounds like crap and "rattley"? The "Premium sound" speakers have foam surrounds that have dissolved in the heat. JBL'shave rubber surrouetnds that can take the hear. If you have the "PS" system, those speakers are trash. Get only 5x7 or 6x8 replacement speakers. They'll fit. The JBL stock amp has some funny bands that aren't compatible with normal speakers.

mark
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

If you have a good shape Gen1 thats the usual issues, fix these issues, and enjoy the car for another couple years. The engines and transmissions last quite well if they're good when you get them, and immediately perform these preventative maintenace things. Gen1's are well known to last close to 200K+ if properly maintained while still blowing Northstars and GT's away.
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
15) MSD wires. ~100 from Summit. They fit great, and zero issues, although some say they'll blow off due to a lack of air vent near the top. Mine are great however.16) Get a hypertech 160 degree thermostat. That's 30 degrees cooler and will make your oil last longer, while the "Delta T" goes up, increasing HP.17 Immediately swithch to a Motorcraft 820S oil filter, and Mobil 1. Fixed my chain rattle quite nicely.. If the first change doesn't quite stop it, hang in there for a second.
[/div]

All good advice...though I've read many discussions on the use of 180 vs 160 t-stats. Some claim that 160 t-stats can cause greater engine wear due to improper operating temperature.
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]15) MSD wires. ~100 from Summit. They fit great, and zero issues, although some say they'll blow off due to a lack of air vent near the top. Mine are great however.16) Get a hypertech 160 degree thermostat. That's 30 degrees cooler and will make your oil last longer, while the "Delta T" goes up, increasing HP.17 Immediately swithch to a Motorcraft 820S oil filter, and Mobil 1. Fixed my chain rattle quite nicely.. If the first change doesn't quite stop it, hang in there for a second.[/div]All good advice...though I've read many discussions on the use of 180 vs 160 t-stats. Some claim that 160 t-stats can cause greater engine wear due to improper operating temperature.
[/div]

I put a 160 in my car at 78,000 miles and at 370,000 miles the same thermostat is still in the car.

SO MUCH for "greater wear"...huh?

People often form an opinion based on hearsey, actual results are a much better way to form an opinion.

"your opinion may vary"
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong][div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]15) MSD wires. ~100 from Summit. They fit great, and zero issues, although some say they'll blow off due to a lack of air vent near the top. Mine are great however.16) Get a hypertech 160 degree thermostat. That's 30 degrees cooler and will make your oil last longer, while the "Delta T" goes up, increasing HP.17 Immediately swithch to a Motorcraft 820S oil filter, and Mobil 1. Fixed my chain rattle quite nicely.. If the first change doesn't quite stop it, hang in there for a second.[/div]All good advice...though I've read many discussions on the use of 180 vs 160 t-stats. Some claim that 160 t-stats can cause greater engine wear due to improper operating temperature.[/div]I put a 160 in my car at 78,000 miles and at 370,000 miles the same thermostat is still in the car.SO MUCH for "greater wear"...huh?People often form an opinion based on hearsey, actual results are a much better way to form an opinion."your opinion may vary"
[/div]

Actually, I read that in a Cobra Mustang tech article. And there's also this:

"On the many engine dyno pulls we have done with many different kinds of mods, we found that max power was made with the water temp between 180-200 degrees
Any colder of hotter you loose hp.

That is my little 5 cents worth


Tom...www.tkmotion.com
14 NHRA Records...Porting...Flowbench...Making the fastest cars faster!"

...and thanks for the benefit of the doubt and subsequent bashing.

Did you do any research before you put your 160 tstat in?
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

Theoretically you will make the most horsepower with the hottest combustion chamber temps possible, ie: less temperature difference between combusting gases and surrounding metal, less heat (energy) loss, more power. And you want to have this with the coldest intake charge possible.

In the past some racers have gone to great lengths to run their engines extremely HOT for the most power. Neglecting the obvious durability concerns.

And in general, yes, a lower engine operating temperature will cause more wear, within limits. Obviously, too hot will cause problems as well. Running a 160° stat will cause slightly more wear than running a 180° or 190° stat. But given the low wear levels inherent in modern engine designs, you will never notice. Especially if you change your oil with the same frequency as most enthusiasts.
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

Every 10 degree's you drop the intake air charge is worth 2% horsepower.

2% doesnt sound like much, but 2% of 300 is 6hp.

Think about going from 190 to 160 that's 30 degree's

6HP for each 10 degree's would be 18HP for a paltry 20.00 thermostat.

"your mileage/opinion may vary"
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Every 10 degree's you drop the intake air charge is worth 2% horsepower.2% doesnt sound like much, but 2% of 300 is 6hp.Think about going from 190 to 160 that's 30 degree's6HP for each 10 degree's would be 18HP for a paltry 20.00 thermostat."your mileage/opinion may vary"
[/div]

Do you assume that intake temp would drop 30 degrees if your water temp dropped 30 degrees?
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

Once the thermo stat opens it's open. The only thing that going on with the lower number is that it opens at 160 degrees rather than 180 degrees. The key to a cooler running engine is in the thermo effiency of the radiator and cooling system. Fortunately our cars are euipped with a large fan with a 2 speed motor so that we can get maximum cooling when we need it (ie in traffic). The thermo stat also places some restriction in the system so that the radiator can have time to take out some of the BTU's in the coolant.

Air inlet density and Fuel temps are not effected by your thermostat, and these are the items that are effecting HP. Years ago guys were wrapping their headers while also using cool cans to keep the heat in the engine and increase the density of the fuel charge by lowering it's temperture. Thats why today we have these inter cooler kits etc.

One other item, the manufactures have determined what temp that they want to run their engines at and put a thermostat in ther so that it gets the engine to that operating temp as soon as practical. The engines clearances are effected by temps and too cool of an engine with not provide for good ring sealing just as too hot an engine will lead to seize up.

Sorry for so much wind. Hope this helps.
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

Logres,

Nah, I try not to "ASSUME" anything.

Most of my data is from THOUSANDS of passes at the dragstrip...and
I have this "thing" it's called a digital pyrometer.

When I put the 93 motor in my car, I was measuring 212 degree coolant temps exiting the heads/intake with the stock thermostat.

With the 160 Thermostat in the car the temps fell from 212 down to 180-185

27 degree difference, and considering the coolant exits from the front of the "intake manifold".. I dont guess my intake air charge temp fell any substantial amount according to what you say.
Ok I understand, you are correct.. and my thousands of passes and hundreds of thousands of miles mean.. nothing.

Dont let my speculative/subjective opinions make you do anything.

In fact, I dont suggest ANYONE do this.

Feel free to run whatever thermostat you feel comfortable with.
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Air inlet density and Fuel temps are not effected by your thermostat, and these are the items that are effecting HP. Years ago guys were wrapping their headers while also using cool cans to keep the heat in the engine and increase the density of the fuel charge by lowering it's temperture. Thats why today we have these inter cooler kits etc.
[/div]

Header wrap wasn't used to keep heat in the "engine".
Header wrap is used to keep heat in "THE HEADER" so the exhuast gases dont lose speed/energy while exiting the motor.

Intake Manifold temperature DOES affect the density of the air charge going into the engine.

Since my engine is running 27-30 degree's cooler, then my intake IS cooler than with the stock thermostat.

Why would it NOT be cooler?
 
RE: Bang for the Buck Gen 1 Mods..

Hey Logres, and Roadboss,

where do your cars fit into the Quickest Lincolns thread?

I didn't see either of your cars listed.

Tiff pushed my 160 thermostat to 14.06 at nearly 100MPH
the nearly 100MPH being the "KEY", as MPH is what HP is based off of.

what kind of ET's are you two guys running and with what mods?

Just curious::wtf::
 
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