So I got Noah's Mark on the road for the first time in a year. Not a very successful post-refit maiden voyage. I have at least one bad ABS sensor and a #4 cylinder misfire. I've got a good idea about the ABS sensor, as I swapped in some "newer" ebay sensors when we swapped the pumpkin last year, so I suspect it's one of them. The misfire looks to be just a corroded plug. Of course I left the new box of plugs I had at home, so it'll have to wait till tomorrow. Oh yeah, and the gawd-awfulest creaks and groans from the rear sway bar bushings. Bad idea to powder coat a sway bar in gloss black. Anyway, gonna try to lube those up for now until I can get some ES bushings.
Anyway...
The issue I'm more annoyed with is that I've got some pretty bad parasitic battery drain. It's already drained the battery once. I'm not much of an electrician, but I did wire a meter between the negative cable and the negative battery terminal and got around 210 mA, which is way high. So I started unplugging engine comp. fuses one at a time to try to trace it down. I plugged the meter leads into each fuse plug and got a reading. Two fuses stood out, both 60 amp fuses. I didn't have a chance to test instrument panel fuses yet.
Unfortunately I ended up blowing the fuse on my meter when I forgot to close the door before I took a reading and it must have taken a spike. I can't find a replacement till Monday. But in the mean time, these are the ones I'm a little baffled by, since neither one seems to carry anything that should be active with the engine off. To my untrained mind, these suggest a short somewhere.
E.C. #22 - draws around 20 - 30 mA
Description: "I.P. Fuses (#1, #7, #13, #19, #25, #31)"
...which are
E.C. # 25 draws 65 mA
Description: "I.P. Fuses (#2, #14, #20, #26, #32, #38), E.C. fuse #5"
...which are
What's odd is that pulling #25 out reduces draw at the battery by about 60 mA, BUT pulling # 22 doesn't seem to reduce draw at all, even though it should draw about 25 mA.
Also, when I unplug the drivers seat (only the motor connector, not the heated seat plug), it reduces draw by 30 mA.
Maybe I'm troubleshooting wrong? I don't know.
I'm not asking for anyone to figure it out for me, I've got the wiring diagrams and I'll pore over those tonight. It just seems odd that that those two fuses are drawing anything at all, and I'm hoping someone might have some insight into any possible connection between those two fuses. As of right now, I'm thinking I have a dreaded short somewhere.
Anyway...
The issue I'm more annoyed with is that I've got some pretty bad parasitic battery drain. It's already drained the battery once. I'm not much of an electrician, but I did wire a meter between the negative cable and the negative battery terminal and got around 210 mA, which is way high. So I started unplugging engine comp. fuses one at a time to try to trace it down. I plugged the meter leads into each fuse plug and got a reading. Two fuses stood out, both 60 amp fuses. I didn't have a chance to test instrument panel fuses yet.
Unfortunately I ended up blowing the fuse on my meter when I forgot to close the door before I took a reading and it must have taken a spike. I can't find a replacement till Monday. But in the mean time, these are the ones I'm a little baffled by, since neither one seems to carry anything that should be active with the engine off. To my untrained mind, these suggest a short somewhere.
E.C. #22 - draws around 20 - 30 mA
Description: "I.P. Fuses (#1, #7, #13, #19, #25, #31)"
...which are
I.P. # 1 = "Steering column/Ignition/Lighting Module (Brake Lamps, Climate Control Blower Motor, Hazard Lamps, Speed Control)"
I.P. # 7 = "Steering column/Ignition/Lighting Module (Left Turn Lamps)"
I.P. # 13 = "Steering column/Ignition/Lighting Module (Right Turn Lamps)"
I.P. # 19 = "Steering column/Ignition/Lighting Module (Left LO Beam Headlamp)"
I.P. # 25 = "Steering column/Ignition/Lighting Module (Right LO Beam Headlamp)"
I.P. # 31 = "Steering column/Ignition/Lighting Module (Park Lamps)"
I.P. # 7 = "Steering column/Ignition/Lighting Module (Left Turn Lamps)"
I.P. # 13 = "Steering column/Ignition/Lighting Module (Right Turn Lamps)"
I.P. # 19 = "Steering column/Ignition/Lighting Module (Left LO Beam Headlamp)"
I.P. # 25 = "Steering column/Ignition/Lighting Module (Right LO Beam Headlamp)"
I.P. # 31 = "Steering column/Ignition/Lighting Module (Park Lamps)"
E.C. # 25 draws 65 mA
Description: "I.P. Fuses (#2, #14, #20, #26, #32, #38), E.C. fuse #5"
...which are
I.P. # 2 = "Radio, Cellular Phone"
I.P. # 14 = "Cigar Lighter, Cellular Phone Power Point"
I.P. # 20 = "Message Center, Instrument Cluster, Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module"
I.P. # 26 = "Steering column/Ignition/Lighting module (Courtesy Lighting, Demand Lighting)"
I.P. # 32 = "Brake Pedal Position Switch, Brake Deactivation Switch"
I.P. # 38 = "Data Link Connector"
E.C. # 5 = "Trunk Lid Relay, Fuel Filler Door Release"
I.P. # 14 = "Cigar Lighter, Cellular Phone Power Point"
I.P. # 20 = "Message Center, Instrument Cluster, Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module"
I.P. # 26 = "Steering column/Ignition/Lighting module (Courtesy Lighting, Demand Lighting)"
I.P. # 32 = "Brake Pedal Position Switch, Brake Deactivation Switch"
I.P. # 38 = "Data Link Connector"
E.C. # 5 = "Trunk Lid Relay, Fuel Filler Door Release"
What's odd is that pulling #25 out reduces draw at the battery by about 60 mA, BUT pulling # 22 doesn't seem to reduce draw at all, even though it should draw about 25 mA.
Also, when I unplug the drivers seat (only the motor connector, not the heated seat plug), it reduces draw by 30 mA.
Maybe I'm troubleshooting wrong? I don't know.
I'm not asking for anyone to figure it out for me, I've got the wiring diagrams and I'll pore over those tonight. It just seems odd that that those two fuses are drawing anything at all, and I'm hoping someone might have some insight into any possible connection between those two fuses. As of right now, I'm thinking I have a dreaded short somewhere.