Blend Door Actuator

You can get the top left screw out with a 1/4 drive 8mm socket on a short extension, a swivel, and another extension. There is a hole right under the display center, to the right. Stick it in there, and use the other hand from the bottom to position the socket. It literally comes right out.

The one I did yesterday was busted into pieces, and ziptied together ;)

After the new one went in it still didn't work. The HVAC controls were bad as well.

BTW Mike they all are slip on designs. It's just when that plastic arm breaks, it loosens up and slips off the shaft. I actually use a 1/2" compression sleeve to slip on the new ones as a reinforcement ring. I need to grab a picture of them. It's a perfect fit.
 
the new blend doors that i have put in recently i could not pull the black arm off the motor are you sure the new ones can still come off because it felt like i would have had to break it to make the arm come off!
 
Congrats Mike! :D

I've never tried taking the message center out... if I ever have the misfortune of having to do a blend door again, I'll have to try that.

:D -J
 
They definitely slide off with enough persistence ;)

... this is a fresh blend door motor, just assembled with the 1/2 compression sleeve.
 
wow killer reinforcement, does it fit on there tight jeremi? i never would have thought to use one of those. i have some of those from my old bagged silverado, if i do another blend door i might have to try that!!
 
The ones I picked up from HD fit super tight. I don't know if it's an industry stadard size, but they should be. You have to really push it onto the shaft. I actually repaired couple of them where the arm wasn't completely broken, just split. People didn't want to pay $50 for a new blend door, and this 50 cent fix worked fine for over a year now on this one m8. Reinforcing a brand new one seems like a overkill, but since it's so easy, it a no brainer IMO.
 
One more question, I dropped one of the bolts that holds the top of the dash down the defrost vents :-( I should have taken better care but tis done now. I have replaced it with one from the hardware store....... question is, will the bolt cause any trouble? I thought about trying a magnet on a string to see if it might come out. Any concerns?
 
Thanks, Guys. :) Jeremi, That is awesome using that compression ring. I am going to do that to the broken arm I just took out of the car, and keep it as a spare because you know it is just a matter of time before Ford discontinues the part and stops making these motors altogether like so many other obsolete parts for these cars.
 
Great discussion guys! I am totally going to use that compression ring trick. My blend door broke this winter and I've been content to just reach under the dash whenever I need to adjust from hot or cold. BUT now I've discovered that the heater core is leaking on the floor and I'll have to change it. The blower motor has been making some noise too so I'm just going to replace these items all at once. My question is this: can I use the well published procedure for replacing the blend door to gain access to the heater core and blower motor? Or does the dash have to come out further for that? I haven't seen any discussion on repairs to the heater core or blower motor.
 
First of all, are you POSITIVE it's the core leaking? Does the fluid that's on the floor smell like antifreeze? Marks all have a habit of leaking from the cowl area more than from the heater core...... just a thought.
 
Yes, it is definitely antifreeze and it is dripping from the floor vent. I do have a slight rain leak under extreme soaking conditions, so that's a good thought but this is certainly antifreeze. The only other "how to" I saw on the forum involved cutting the firewall so I don't think I'll be going that route.

I drove it just now and it's started leaking pretty badly. I'm going to bypass the core in the engine compartment until I can source all the other parts I'm gonna need, not to mention making my spare Mustang road-ready in case the project takes me more than a day.
 
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