Blown piston ring?

I don't think there's enough oil leaking on the ground for it to be a head gasket. There also is no coolant in the oil although when its about 59 in the morning the car has white smoke pouring out of the exhaust.
.

Headgasket doesnt mean oil will hit the ground.

headgasket doesnt mean coolant is in your oil.

you could have nicked the gasket between two cylinders and never contaminate your coolant with oil.

it does sound to me like your "swapping compression" between 2 or more cylinders.
 
Pull the plugs and look for flecks of metal...

This will appear as minute black flecks on the white part of the plug.

The lack of black flecks doesnt mean there was no detonation, but the presence of flecks indicates that cylinder is detonating.

More than likely you dont have a broken piston ring, it's more likely you have "lifted the ring land" at the top of the piston, thus removing a portion of the piston.. which takes out the rings.
It's probably a piston issue created by a bad A/F ratio described in your other thread.

Which is why WB02 is very very important when tuning cars.

your car might run like a champ on the dyno, only to detonate itself to bits under "real world driving".
 
Ummm... should be 180-200psi all across, not 120...

should be.. could be... meh.

Whatevever the number IS.. it should be within 10% of all the other cylinders.
There isn't a "right" compression number per say, but they all should be within 10%

When you find you have 200-180 across all the cylinders and two of them are in the 100 range or 120.. you will then know which two cylinders are swapping gasses.
 
More than likely you dont have a broken piston ring, it's more likely you have "lifted the ring land" at the top of the piston, thus removing a portion of the piston.. which takes out the rings.

I'm guessing this will also show a lack of compression, right?


If a piece of the piston is broken off and remaining in the cylinder wouldn't this make a noticable clatter while the pieces are jumping around inside the cylinder? There is also no sign of anything broken inside the oil.

I would understand after market pistions being unnoticable due to their clater on start up until the motor heats up. But the stock pistons are hypereutectic and its 16-18% silicone content make it a tight fit, thus no noise on start up. I would imagine it would sound like a 2618 piston before coming to temperature or louder?

The knock sensors are also not disabled if that would make a difference.
 
If a piece of the piston is broken off and remaining in the cylinder wouldn't this make a noticable clatter while the pieces are jumping around inside the cylinder? There is also no sign of anything broken inside the oil.
.

I've seen more than 1 mod motor with a lifted ring land that showed no other signs of damage other than a loss of compression..and sometimes merly a "flutter"/miss.

lack of a miss or parts of your piston in the pan dont mean it didn't lift the ring land.

Sometimes the "missing parts" exit the exhaust on the very next stroke after it breaks so it doesnt rattle around in the cylinder.

If the missing parts didn't exit the exhaust valve the engine would probably instantly lock up as peices of pistons generally aren't "compressable"
 
I'm guessing this will also show a lack of compression, right?
.
It SHOULD, but depending on the amount of missing piston and whether the rings are affected it might just be a "little low" on compression on 1 hole.

I've seen compression tests not show a lifted ring land.

Hell it might not have "chunked" a peice of piston completly OFF it might have just "lifted it", thus allowing combustion gasses to enter your crank case, thus "gassing up your oil".
If it just "raised the ring land" your compression might go UP on that particular cylinder, so dont be fooled by your compression test results.
One hole marginally lower.. or marginally higher could easily be a "lifted land".

The part of the piston doesnt have to be "GONE" for the damage to have occured.

These mod motors have a very VERY short distance to the first ring land, it doesnt take ALOT of damage to screw up the cylinder seal.

IF it were me.. I'd go ahead and secure another engine, they aren't expensive.
Then swap em out..THEN pull your current one apart.
It's really not cost effective to take a wounded one apart and try to fix it.. unless it's something really simple like a broken valve spring.

IHMO if the head has to come off.. the engine comes out.

For what it cost to take it apart and diagnose, then repair...
you could drop a running engine back in there in the same afternoon....
THEN.. take all the time you want with the current engines "post mortem".
 
IF it were me.. I'd go ahead and secure another engine, they aren't expensive.
Then swap em out..THEN pull your current one apart.
It's really not cost effective to take a wounded one apart and try to fix it.. unless it's something really simple like a broken valve spring.

Eh, I was thinking about selling it but I probibly wouldn't even get the money that the mods are worth.

From FRPP 6700$ from the junkyard I don't know. :rolleyes:

Does this matter alot if all I'm doing is driving to school and work?
 
atleast you have come to terms with "reality" when it comes to selling used cars with mods.

99.999% of the time you will never recoup money spent on mods

especially for example when you have a 2000 dollar car and you put 1500 dollars worth of mods on it.. that doesnt make it a 3500 dollar car, it's still a 2000 dollar car.

with that said.
of course if you pick up a FRPP catalog your gonna find the engine cost 3-4 times what the car is worth.

but if it is as "you say" and your driving the car back and forth to school and work, then you really shouldn't be shopping in the FRPP catalog.

I put a low mile 93 engine in my 95 for 600.00.

I found a crashed car that I could "see the motor run" and went and bought it.

you live in florida, home of the #1 mark 8 dismantler in the country.
Jamie could easily find you a motor that you can probably "hear run" for likely very little money.
In fact I'm pretty sure Jamie probably HAS a motor that he's already heard run and is just looking for something to do with it.

In the 4 months since you signed up, how many users do you see that "shop in the frpp catalog for engines???"

.. probably none...because we have to be "alot more creative than that" in order to keep these cars going down the road without spending a bazillion dollars on them.

less that 1K you can replace your motor...easily
 
Does this matter alot if all I'm doing is driving to school and work?

13.5sec 1/4mile from idle and walking it to 2k.

13.50's from a 98 indicate a large amount of NA mods, or a blower, or a bottle.

sounds like you have more going on than a simple daily driver for work and school.

what mods do you have, i loooked thru "previous posts" and it didnt jump out at me.
 
42lb injectors walbro 255lph fuel pump procharger p-1sc custom intercooler 3.8in pulley 05gt maf diablo mafia extender motoblue 60k volt coil packs zex pulgs powerslotted rotors on all 4 corners ss brake lines.
 
yea, prolly wanna start looking for another motor.

With a SC if you had an AF/detonation issue, it's very doubtful you dont have a wounded cylinder/piston/etc.

dont feel bad, when you start dancing in the forced induction/nitrous/power adder arena its really only a matter of time before you hurt something.

hopefully you know why your car had a AF problem and can take steps to prevent it's reocurrance.

and your right, you cant sell the car for what the mods are worth, especially if it's wounded.

drop 5-700 on a used motor and continue to learn...no biggee.
 
Back
Top