Probably better off hacking off 1/4" yourself. But it shouldn't be difficult to remove them without removing the strut rod and everything else. Just take the nut off, and the endpiece and bushing. The sleeve should come out without much of a battle...may need to use plumbers pliers.
Brake prob.
- Thread starter RonB
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Probably better off hacking off 1/4" yourself. But it shouldn't be difficult to remove them without removing the strut rod and everything else. Just take the nut off, and the endpiece and bushing. The sleeve should come out without much of a battle...may need to use plumbers pliers.
Are we talking about the strut rod bushing to the K member or the control arm? When I did another members(from the WTF? board) I had to remove the strut rod and grind the washer off the end of the bushing in order to remove it. I don't think my sleeves would have been re-useable because I ground the inside down so I could pry the washer off, pretty much demolising everything.
Strut rod to k-member. I know the stock bushings have the sleeve press-formed around the end washer, but the kits come with all new hardware that is not press-formed. The washer just sits on the end of the sleeve. If one were to install a defective kit, all one would have to do to remove the sleeve was what I described previously.
sleeper
Former LOD President
The bushing most likely causing this pull is the lower control arm to k-member bushing, not the strut rod bushings.
Strut rod bushings may be shot also, but they typically present themselves in other ways and the wear is often obvious to the naked eye.
I would recommend replacing the entire lower control arm on the side that the vehicle is pulling toward.
Both my mark 8's did this at some point in their lives...
Strut rod bushings may be shot also, but they typically present themselves in other ways and the wear is often obvious to the naked eye.
I would recommend replacing the entire lower control arm on the side that the vehicle is pulling toward.
Both my mark 8's did this at some point in their lives...
Im sure it is bushings yesterday I poked my head out the window and looked at the front tire then I hit the brakes (going slow ofcourse) and the wheel moves I can see it turn and tonight I had a little bit of a drive and when i got home I noticed a creek whenever I went over a bump or turned the wheel it was load I was a bit imbarsed but the car itself made up fro the noise LOL anyway im looking into a high performance bushing kit I might as well replace them all. Dose anyone know of any???? Thanks
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sleeper
Former LOD President
now that sounds more like strut rod bushings.
my money says you need upper control arm bushings too. Those tend to be first to go.
sounds like you're doing some bushings. I always went with factory parts myself, which meant replacing the entire control arms when the bushings went bad (but i got new ball joints at the same time)
http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12parts/fsk100.htm
This is the most comprehensive kit I've ever seen. Kind of pricey, but it'll get the job done right.
sleeper
Former LOD President
That's probably $200 cheaper than factory control arms and strut rod bushings, never mind the other bushings that are included. The only drawback is that you don't get balljoints, and a lot of times those are an issue too. I'd hate to put new bushings in the upper control arms then have the ball joints go out a few months later and have to replace the whole control arm anyway (ball joint is not serviceable seperately).
Yes...a complete rebuild would include that kit along with lower control arms (rockauto comes complete at low cost), upper arms, and end links. I also did my inner and outer tie rods for good measure. Then your handling will be better than when the car was new.