Changed Crank Position Sensor, still won't start.

If you have the DVD I beleive if you go to the PCM Diag section and go to Sect 5a you can drill down thru with your volt meter to help you get to the bottom of your problem. Inertia switch was another mentioned possibility, and of coarse shorts in wiring as well a bad computor. Let us know how you make out on this one.
 
Thanks for the replies. I have tried depressing the accelerator to the floor during cranking. No changes. I tend the think the inertia switch can't be the problem because the rails pressurize. I've been running through section 3A on the DVD. The info is great but the navigation can be slow. I'll start looking at Section 5A and I'll keep you all updated.

Happy New Year
 
I've come to a test procedure to indicate whether or not the PCM is bad. This comes from the Ford Diagnotic DVD: "Connect incandescent test lamp between B+ and each coil driver circuit."

1. Does anyone have a picture of the pinout for the PCM to determine where "B+" is?
2. Where is the coil driver circuit? Is it the positive of each coil?

Thanks for the help.
 
I'm pretty sure theres a B+ wire coming out of the alternator. Not sure if that'd be the only B+ though.

Also a fully charged battery should hold 12.6V so yours wasn't that bad.
 
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I've narrowed it down to a low bias fault in the Crank Position Sensor harness or a bad PCM. The only way to be sure is with the use of a breakout box or the PCM pinout (which I have neither) so I think I'm going to have it towed to the dealership on Monday morning.
 
Did you try changing the spark plugs? I didn't see in the post if they were changed or not. In the early posts you said that you didn't have a spark then after some repair you said that there was a spark is it a strong spark? Is it possible that by changing the crank sensor and connecter that you solved the spark issue; however when you had no spark the plugs simply got fouled? If you have spark fuel and air the engine should run or at least do something other than just crank.
 
With the new copper plugs my engine sounded different when cranking, like it was trying to catch, but still not start. An improvement nonetheless.
 
Both "engine temp data err" and "gear display data err" display on my message center when I ran the KOEO test this morning. It's currently at least 64 degrees outside.

The changed plugs have improved the starting, it seems like it wants to catch but won't. I wonder if I installed a bad CKP sensor. The Ford Diagonostic DVD led me back to the CKP Sensor and/or pulse wheel. Can a pulse wheel go bad? I hope it's not that since that would be a pain the change.
 
Got it Running!

Got it Running!

I was testing coil driver #1 from Battery positive (while cranking the engine) and the engine just started. I wasn't even trying. It did thug since it had alot of raw fuel to burn off but it ran. I drove it around and it began running normally. It did however stall eventually but it started right up. It stalled for no real reason about 6 more times before I parked it.

I noticed the Live Data reflected a spark advance range of between 5-19 degrees. Perhaps the knock sensor could be bad, or maybe the PCM is still relearning what was erased from it's memory.

Thank you to everyone who helped.
 
VSFiedor said:
spark advance range of between 5-19 degrees.
Click to expand...

that's probably just the pcm using spark to control the idle speed.
it's common.

the engine will react quicker to a timing change than input from the IAC valve.
The PCM uses BOTH to control idle speed.

I had heard that the 4.6 could idle with "single digit" timing events, and that sounds just like what you have discovered.
 
After rereading your post that DOSENT sound like it’s the crank sincere. To me it sounds like the IGNITION MODUAL that controls the Coil packs under the drive side strut cover. The sincere isn’t something that really goes bag that often. Its seemlier to an antilock brake sincere that just picks up a magnetic field as the cranks spins a magnet by it. BUT before you start replacing parts and spend money on sincere, parts and specialty tools chasseing ghosts go BUY or BOROW A SCANNER, you can get them starting at $65 that work with a Laptop or PDA. I have a Laologger.com scanner for OBDII and the $29Actron code reader for my 94 mark from Autozone. PS PS never spray starter fluid in to a Fuel injected car it kills sincere and eats rubber o-rings
 
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