control arm strut rod nut

K

KempoDavid

Registered
I'm trying to replace my front lower control arm, but I cannot loosen the nut that attaches the strut rod to the control arm. The strut rod bushing is completely shot, and the rod moves/rotates as I try to loosen the nut. It turns until it comes into contact with a threaded rod that I don't know the name of LOL but even then the bushing at both ends give it so much play I can't get it to break loose. I'm afraid I'm going to bend the threaded rod it is pushing against.

How can I isolate the strut rod so that I can break this nut off?

see the lower right of this pic
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n154/JesterLM/Crap/FrontControlArms007.jpg
 
Hey that's MY picture. :)

Put a cresent wrench on the strut rod on the flat part in the middle. Then use a breaker bar to loosen the nut. Or an impact gun.
 
J said:
Hey that's MY picture. :)

Put a cresent wrench on the strut rod on the flat part in the middle. Then use a breaker bar to loosen the nut. Or an impact gun.
Click to expand...

so, use the crescent wrench to turn the rod the oppostie direction, or maybe put a floor jack on it...

if that doesn't work I'm calling a guy form work who has an impact gun!

thanks guys!

Now on to my other Mark, it's throwing a 121 and idling at 2k-3k :/ but that's another thread
 
Son of a b$#@ch that thing is stuck! I've got a jack under the end of my pipe wrench. I've got a 2' wrench I can get on the nut and no amount of pulling on that has been successful. I put a shorter socket wrench on it and was able to get my 5' bar on the end of that and destroyed it - twisted the end right off it!

is this thing reverse threaded LOL time for impact wrench.
 
Use a crescent or pipe wrench on the flats of the strut rod, and take a breaker bar with socket or box wrench, and place floor jack under it so as to use the power of the floor jack to back the nut off while the wrench on the strut rod flats contacts the frame or something solid. Also pre soak with PB Blaster or Kroil.
 
True, that was crucial. Ended up with a pipe wrench on that with the end breaced on a jackstand. I bought an Ace hardware Lifetime Warranty 5" extension and was then able to get my 5' bar over that.

Funny thing was, I was waiting for it to go "CRACK" and come loose, but it just starts to sloooowly turn - I'm sure I'm twisting the extension (again) - but it was working!

The bushing is GONE. I'm headed out right now to finish removing the LCA and then I can get a look at the bushing sleeve, it looks like it is crushed into the rod. w/ my luck it will be fused to it :(
 
Yes at assembly they they are rounded over. So removal can be cumbersome. Your new Ferrels should be with the new bushings.
 
OK, everything is going well until... I can't get teh k-member bolt out! The nut is off, and the eccentric, but I can't press that bolt out of the hole. It rotates, slides etc but not in the direction I need it.

Some trick to this?
 
you must mean the alignment cam bolt on the lower control arm. Just reverse it out with a ratchet or air tool. It should screw out. Or you can try getting a punch or something on the end and tapping it out. Put the nut on to protect the thread.
 
PB Blaster again, what I do is put a punch point in my air chisel, and put the nut on a few turns to serve as a pilot for the punch point. Pull the trigger while pushing on the tool to drive the bolt out.
 
The innner tie rod and boot may be in the way so yu may need a longer punch/bar. That bolt is always a little bit of a pain.

Also, if the air strut drained of air?
 
Looking at the replacement part, there i sno threading. Turns out the LCA I am removing DOES thread this bolt, so after beating on it for a few hours I easily ratcheted it out. what a nice surprise that was. the part is OFF the new one goes on tonight


What is the proper length of the bushing sleeve? Are they still selling them too long?
 
You don't want it longer than the original. In the case of the Moog "Problem Solvers", i usually cut a 1/4" off the ferrell.
 
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