creaking noise from front right
- Thread starter calisonic
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Right but how would I know which ones are gonna take a sh*t in just a few months?
Could it be that I used an improper grease? I just used some that came w the grease gun. Don't know if there is a special or different kind.
Right but how would I know which ones are gonna take a sh*t in just a few months?
Could it be that I used an improper grease? I just used some that came w the grease gun. Don't know if there is a special or different kind.
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Maybe you forgot to grease one of them or they were left empty from production? This is all just speculation.
Here is my Amazon thread...
http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=24182&highlight=amazon
Here is my Amazon thread...
http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=24182&highlight=amazon
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Thanks for the link.
Oddly, only one uca even has a grease fitting, and neither of the lowers do. The one with the fitting is what seems to be making all the noise. The uppers are Dormant and the lowers are Autozone brand.
so the lcas from a 97 tbird will fit? Because they are a different part number on rock auto. Imagine the uppers are Mark specific because of the connection for the air ride sensor.
Thanks for the link.
Oddly, only one uca even has a grease fitting, and neither of the lowers do. The one with the fitting is what seems to be making all the noise. The uppers are Dormant and the lowers are Autozone brand.
so the lcas from a 97 tbird will fit? Because they are a different part number on rock auto. Imagine the uppers are Mark specific because of the connection for the air ride sensor.
You are correct. If you've converted to coil springs, the t-bird ones will work. Be aware that Amazons prices fluctuate and the prices went up right after I bought the entire front end from that seller. That's why I included my invoice so you could see what I paid and compare. All the Moog parts I used had zert fittings.
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Thanks again. I noticed that the passenger side strut rod can be moved if u put a wrench on the flat spot on it and the driver side can't, and the bushing looks different. I'm thinking I installed it wrong...
Thanks again. I noticed that the passenger side strut rod can be moved if u put a wrench on the flat spot on it and the driver side can't, and the bushing looks different. I'm thinking I installed it wrong...
Well that sucks. You're the one doing the diagnosing though, lol. 
Did you ever go buy that stethascope like I mentioned? Its probably 6 bucks....go get one and since you can simulate the sound without driving, you should be able to easily diagnose it. Heck...it could be a bad wheel bearing or caliper or something crazy like that!
Trust me..get one, you won't be disappointed at the many different uses for it.
Did you ever go buy that stethascope like I mentioned? Its probably 6 bucks....go get one and since you can simulate the sound without driving, you should be able to easily diagnose it. Heck...it could be a bad wheel bearing or caliper or something crazy like that!
Trust me..get one, you won't be disappointed at the many different uses for it.
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We'll I took it to a shop and when it was on the lift I noticed it. Should have kept my mouth shut apparently but the tech showed me how that strut rod was loose. Either day I guess it needed to be fixed.
My mom's a Nurs so I should be able to get a stethoscope. Do I put it up against the suspect part or just use it like a mic?
We'll I took it to a shop and when it was on the lift I noticed it. Should have kept my mouth shut apparently but the tech showed me how that strut rod was loose. Either day I guess it needed to be fixed.
My mom's a Nurs so I should be able to get a stethoscope. Do I put it up against the suspect part or just use it like a mic?
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A nurse's stethoscope is a bit different from an automotive one. (my mom is a nurse too!) The automotive ones just end with a metal "stick" instead of the round pad you are probably thinking of. I just picked one up about a week ago to track down a bad idler pulley. You just put the end right on the part you want to listen to, and make it make noise. you'll only hear *that* part. It worked like a champ, and was $10 at AutoZone.
Here's what it looks like:
Here's what it looks like:
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ah I see.. ill get one, guess the shop didn't have one. Unfortunately it doesn't do that every time I park it and rock it by the lug nuts.
ah I see.. ill get one, guess the shop didn't have one. Unfortunately it doesn't do that every time I park it and rock it by the lug nuts.
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Well since replacing the pushing did not solve the noise the shop said they would look at it again. This time they determined that the inner sway bar bushings were causing some noise so they took them off clean them and greased them. Well this did definitely help there is still some serious clunking noise when you get the brakes hard and suspension compresses and expands. The tech told me this was just an exaggeration of whatt you here when you slowly release the brakes at idle and they are still in contact with the rotor. does anybody else experience in this? I have ebc green stuff up front but the sound is only coming from the passenger side. I will see if I can replicate is on the ground again tomorrow if so obviously it this is not the case. I hope it is simply a bad caliper or something. Come to think of it, I didn't grease the caliper cylinder itself. But as far as I know if you don't need to.
Well since replacing the pushing did not solve the noise the shop said they would look at it again. This time they determined that the inner sway bar bushings were causing some noise so they took them off clean them and greased them. Well this did definitely help there is still some serious clunking noise when you get the brakes hard and suspension compresses and expands. The tech told me this was just an exaggeration of whatt you here when you slowly release the brakes at idle and they are still in contact with the rotor. does anybody else experience in this? I have ebc green stuff up front but the sound is only coming from the passenger side. I will see if I can replicate is on the ground again tomorrow if so obviously it this is not the case. I hope it is simply a bad caliper or something. Come to think of it, I didn't grease the caliper cylinder itself. But as far as I know if you don't need to.
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But if it was the caliper, it shouldn't matter if the wheel is turning or not and this only does when the car is in motion. And even if its just 10 MPH or so.
But if it was the caliper, it shouldn't matter if the wheel is turning or not and this only does when the car is in motion. And even if its just 10 MPH or so.
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What I don't understand is how balljoints cab make so much noise without all of the play and slop that is usually associated with faulty joints.
What I don't understand is how balljoints cab make so much noise without all of the play and slop that is usually associated with faulty joints.
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I actually got a red one at Autozone. But I already greased EVERYTHING on that caliper besides the brake material. My dad said its the control arm bushings that make the creaking noise, and the ball joint just make a rattle.
I actually got a red one at Autozone. But I already greased EVERYTHING on that caliper besides the brake material. My dad said its the control arm bushings that make the creaking noise, and the ball joint just make a rattle.
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Well ten minutes w the stethoscope and someone to bounce the car up and down pinpointed the passenger side upper control arm to frame bushing. ( the one twords the back)
Why it took a "master mechanic" at a local shop 10 hours to not figure this out is beyond me.
Well ten minutes w the stethoscope and someone to bounce the car up and down pinpointed the passenger side upper control arm to frame bushing. ( the one twords the back)
Why it took a "master mechanic" at a local shop 10 hours to not figure this out is beyond me.