Door Pin Switch

E

eduncan911

Registered
Ok, I've got the famous door pin switch issue. And the WD40 trick has ended its life cycle of protecting me from these such occurances. It's really getting annoying as hell, driving at night with upteen interior lights coming on!!! Arrg.

The issues, just FYI:

- the alarm intermediately goes off in the middle of the night
- interior lights come on while driving, and stay on

Wiggling the driver's door pin switch eventually makes it go away. But there are times where this doesn't work. I have to pull the fuse to turn off the interior lights. Which, disables the keypad, lights, radio shut off, anti-theft, etc.


What the hell is the perminate solution? Replace the door pin switch with an OEM?

THanks!
-Eric
 
RE: Door Pin Switch

The RKE(Remote Keyless Entry) module controls the courtesy lamps. From the manual:

How The Circuit Works


Voltage is present at all times, through Fuse 6 to the Main Light Switch. The I/P Cigar Lighter Lamp is on when the Main Light Switch is turned to HEAD or PARK.

The Lock Cylinder Lamps, Front Door Courtesy Lamps, I/P Courtesy Lamps and Dome Lamp are controlled by the Remote/Keyless Entry Module.

If the I/P Dimming Rheostat Knob is turned fully on, or if any door is opened, battery voltage is applied to the Remote/Keyless Entry Module. The activated voltage is then output to illuminate the interior lamps and other lamps as described above. If the Ignition Switch is not turned on within 45 minutes, the system will be deactivated by removing voltage from the Module to save the battery power.

The Vanity Mirror Lamps, Dome/Map Lamps, Engine Compartment Lamp, Glove Box Lamp and Trunk Lid Lamp are also controlled by the Remote/Keyless Entry Module. If the Hood, Glove Box Compartment or Trunk Lid is opened or the Vanity Lamp Switch or Dome/Map Lamp Switch is turned on, the respective lamp is on. If the Lamp is left on during the first 45 minute battery saver interval, the battery saver will recycle ONCE, leaving the lamp on a maximum of 90 minutes.

The Vanity Mirror Lamps, Dome/Map Lamps, Engine Compartment Lamp, Glove Box Lamp, Trunk Lid Lamp, Rear Reading Lamps, I/P Courtesy Lamps, Door Courtesy and Door Lock Lamps are all controlled by the Remote/Keyless Entry Module. If the hood, glove box compartment or trunk lid is open or the Vanity Mirror Lamp Switch, Dome/Map Lamp Switch, or the Rear Dome Lamp Switch is turned on, the respective lamp is on.

The alarm issue is usually caused by the hood switch.
 
RE: Door Pin Switch

I had the problem with my 96 LSC, R.I.P., and my father in-law, who is a body mechanic for Ford, just pulled the pin that triggers the door module out a (technical term) smidgin. All was well.
 
RE: Door Pin Switch

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
The RKE(Remote Keyless Entry) module controls the courtesy lamps. From the manual:How The Circuit Works Voltage is present at all times, through Fuse 6 to the Main Light Switch. The I/P Cigar Lighter Lamp is on when the Main Light Switch is turned to HEAD or PARK. The Lock Cylinder Lamps, Front Door Courtesy Lamps, I/P (snip....)[/div]

I know that. :p

But when I can open the door, and jiggle the door pin switch every which way, it eventually will turn off. Holding it for a sec, it may come back on and jiggling it just a hair turns the lights off.

It's the door pin switch. Did the same thing a year ago and WD40'd it. Did it again about 6 months ago, and WD40 saolved it. I'm tird of using WD40, and it's not working anymore.

I'll try to figure out something.
 
RE: Door Pin Switch

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
"maybe" it's the other door now?
[/div]
LOL, no. I can open the door and jiggle the pin switch and the lights turn off.
 
RE: Door Pin Switch

On Modular4vdotcom you've got all those postings about investing the time and money to get 500 rwhp out of your car yet you seem hesitant about spending 10 minutes and $6.00 to replace your door switch. What's up?
 
RE: Door Pin Switch

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
On Modular4vdotcom you've got all those postings about investing the time and money to get 500 rwhp out of your car yet you seem hesitant about spending 10 minutes and $6.00 to replace your door switch. What's up?
[/div]What's up is I want this fixed perminately. A new pin switch will last, what, another 5 to 10 years? Hell, my 1975 Monte Carlo and other old cars I have had all have pin switches working normally!

This post was to ask if some "new an improved" version, which I would gladly pay $30 for (more then $6) if it would solve it.

And btw, I thought it was 400rwhp. ;) Need to update my estimates. I have a new project brewing for the Lincoln. More on that when I settle in a few other aspects I'm working on.
 
RE: Door Pin Switch

This is such a common problem on 1st Gens that my dealership always keeps switches in stock. The repair is so simple and inexpensive that we often replace them free of charge as a loyalty courtesy to our regular customers.

When you replace it, it's a good idea to use DeOxit or a similar contact cleaner in the connector.
 
RE: Door Pin Switch

"And btw, I thought it was 400rwhp. ;) Need to update my estimates. I have a new project brewing for the Lincoln."

I just saw your post about Dennis's transmissions. Glad to see you're up to 692rwhp!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top