drive shaft
- Thread starter BadSax
- Start date
I purchased the larger-than-stock 4" diameter driveshaft and it is a tight fit over the fuel tank. I had a shop install it (at the same time 4.30 gears were installed). They told me when they were all done, they backed the car out of the shop, and heard the driveshaft rubbing on something. It was determined to be the fuel tank. All they did was loosen the brackets and wiggle the tank a bit until the rubbing went away. Not a big deal, but they wanted me to be aware of it in case the tank needed to be dropped again. I also had SCP poly differential bushings installed at the same time, which I thought was good insurance against excessive differential and driveshaft movement.
DLF
Registered
Guess this would be a good time to replace the tail shaft seal....
You're going to have to drop the exhaust, maybe the diff, and remove the two little driveshaft loops to get the old one out. Might have to loosen and lower the tank a bit also (which is the way I changed the last one I did). You'll need a 12-point 12mm wrench to remove/replace the bolts at the diff.
I have a 4" shaft and had to remove the sound deadener above the tank for clearance.
You're going to have to drop the exhaust, maybe the diff, and remove the two little driveshaft loops to get the old one out. Might have to loosen and lower the tank a bit also (which is the way I changed the last one I did). You'll need a 12-point 12mm wrench to remove/replace the bolts at the diff.
I have a 4" shaft and had to remove the sound deadener above the tank for clearance.
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FLM Fan
Registered
What do I need to know/do to put this in the car?
Thanks!!!
You need to know how to talk someone into doing it for you.
You basically remove or lower the exhaust and unbolt the pinion flange, unbolt the front and rear differential mounts, lower the differential enough to slide the driveshaft back so the tail comes out of the tranny then carefully lower the gas tank enough to slide the shaft forward out of the car. Reverse the procedure to install. I'm not sure where the loop is on the Gen2, but yeah you may need to unbolt it as well.
Actually, Dean had the best idea. Especially if you have them do the exhaust at the same time.
Actually, Dean had the best idea. Especially if you have them do the exhaust at the same time.
DLF
Registered
Here's a pic of the forward "loop" on a Gen 2. Don't the Gen 1 cars have this as well?
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DLF
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Watch out, I had an issue with an aftermarket bushing. I decided to replace the bushing in mine because I didn't like the amount of runout in it. I could grab the yoke and move it side to side an 1/8th of an inch. I ordered one online, put it in, and it was crap, looser than I began with. I bought about 5 bushings and pressed each one in and they all sucked. I also measured the yoke and it was right on spec, so that wasn't the problem. I ended up going to my grandfathers machine shop and using the lathe to make my own from some bronze stock he had. I also did the forced lube mod at the same time since it only left a total of .002 clearance between the bushing and yoke. Now its been over 60k miles since then and it still as tight as the day I put it in.
You really should think about doing the forced lube mod, its well worth it I think. Also regardless of if you put a new bushing or not put a new seal. Another thing to check as well is driveline and pinion angle, this can be a cause of vibration if they are way off from each other. I used a few washers as shims on the rear end to get it spot on to the engine/trans angle. Before I did all of this the driveline vibration was horrible, and only slightly better with the new driveshaft. The new bushing and angle adjustments were almost as good as an improvement as the shaft alone.
Summary: Don't replace the bushing unless it is loose because it might not get any better. DO replace the seal no matter what. If you do replace the bushing make sure it fits good on the yoke before you put it in the car. I wouldn't want it to have any more than say .01 or .02 clearance....although most of the ones I bought had at least .05 or more if I remember right.
You really should think about doing the forced lube mod, its well worth it I think. Also regardless of if you put a new bushing or not put a new seal. Another thing to check as well is driveline and pinion angle, this can be a cause of vibration if they are way off from each other. I used a few washers as shims on the rear end to get it spot on to the engine/trans angle. Before I did all of this the driveline vibration was horrible, and only slightly better with the new driveshaft. The new bushing and angle adjustments were almost as good as an improvement as the shaft alone.
Summary: Don't replace the bushing unless it is loose because it might not get any better. DO replace the seal no matter what. If you do replace the bushing make sure it fits good on the yoke before you put it in the car. I wouldn't want it to have any more than say .01 or .02 clearance....although most of the ones I bought had at least .05 or more if I remember right.
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Mad1stGen
Registered
It actually seemed to vibrate even more with the Dynotech DS than the stock piece before the bushing replacement.
BTW, that stock driveshaft took out tht bushing, then it took out the seal in the process, and finally the trans mount was messed up as well. Thank NVH.
Mad1stGen
Registered
I've been throwing parts at this car for a while now, so the mount was a no brainer, especially since it fell apart into two pieces, and the exhaust hanger part of it was separated as well. It's all nice and clean now (Cali clean
)
BadSax
enjoys 3 martini lunches
You need to know how to talk someone into doing it for you.
I don't think I'd have too look too far for willing help...
driving far is another story...
So, Isaac is with me for the weekend because he didn't want to ride out our little rain storm, I mean hurricane, on Nantucket...
wussy island people...
Anyway, the car has a new tail shaft seal, so I'm hoping that if it isn't smooshed in the shaft removal it will still be good...
I'm not sure what bushing(s) you guys are talking about though?
Thanks!
BadSax
enjoys 3 martini lunches
Does this bushing have a specific name?
I don't know if it's good or bad, but I'll order a new one just because
Being the curious type (and quite familiar with industrial bushings), what is the press fit interference between the bushing and the tailshaft housing?
Depending on the tailshaft housing tolerance, you could easily see 0.0015" diameter reduction per inch of diameter just from the interference fit with the housing. ADD 2 to 3 times that for thermal expansion fluctuations and suddenly a comfortable 0.010" fit is 0.005" or less - dangerously tight depending upon lubrication and load. But I agree 0.050" is ridiculously sloppy for a new bushing in an application such as this.
