eep! Motor stumbling, wanting to die

MG Davis

Registered
OK, had a CE light for a bit, but felt nothing. My g/f said it was stumbling and losing power when she drove it Saturday. I noticed nothing until driving home Monday, when it was stumbly and missing. Died pulling up to a light. Got her home, misfiring all the way. Noticed the CE light starting to flash every now and then.

Pulled the spark plug cover on the drivers side after work today. All the boots were OK. A bit of oil in the front boot, but not a hell of a lot. Still need to pull pssenger side.

Any ideas so far?

Regards,

Michael
 
RE: eep! Motor stumbling, wanting to die

how many miles?

start with all new plugs. air and fuel filter wouldn't hurt either.
 
RE: eep! Motor stumbling, wanting to die

83K miles. Plugs are a year old, fuel filter is six months old. Was going to pull passenger wires, but it was getting dark.
 
RE: eep! Motor stumbling, wanting to die

I'd check the error codes.

A lot of auto parts stores will do that for you for free.
 
RE: eep! Motor stumbling, wanting to die

Maybe I'm mistaken, but that sounds like what happened to me when I had water in I believe the #8 plug. I had no idea how the water got in there (refused to believe that was the problem for a while because she wasn't recently washed or in the rain or anything), but that was what it was.

Edit: I rechecked the old thread and it was water in #1 and #8.
 
RE: eep! Motor stumbling, wanting to die

If it has plug wires, that would be my first guess.
If it is a OBDII, the CE code check may tell you exactly what the problem is. It has the capability to tell you what cylinder is missfiring I think.
 
RE: eep! Motor stumbling, wanting to die

Michael, you never bothered to tell us anything about your car. A lot of Sherlock Holmes type deducing is required:

You're in the MarkVIII section, so I assume that's what we're dealing with.

You mentioned boots, as opposed to plug wires. This might mean it's a 2nd Gen. If it is, the diagnosis is very different than it would be for'93-'96.

Assuming it is 2nd Gen/OBDII, the PCM flashes the MIL while it is actively detecting an ignition misfire. If the misfire continues long enough, the light will stay on until turned off with a scan tool.

As soon as the PCM begins the misfire flash sequence, it holds a code in memory indicating which cylinder(s) it saw misfiring. This makes diagnosis much more accurate.

Trixie's right about the water entry. You'd be amazed how common that is.

COP coils are sensitive and prone to failure.

Engine oil is a great conductor. It doesn't take much to wick up the coil boot and give spark voltage a path to ground.

Once you get the PCM scanned and find out where the miss is, remove that coil from that spark plug well and turn it sideways so you can see the business end of it. Leave the 2 pin primary connector plugged in, run the car, and see if spark jumps out.

If it does, you need a spark plug.

If it doesn't, use a test light on the two wires to the coil. I prefer to use a "logic probe" type that can check for both power and
ground.
This part is no different than any distributor type or pack type coil.
The red wire (common colour on all coils) will have power with the key in the Run position. The other wire (different colour for each coil) will have a ground pulse from the PCM with the engine running.

If you've got power and a flashing ground but no spark, the coil is bad.

Now, if you're missing either one of those signals...

That's a can of worms we'd rather not open yet.
 
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