engine code help

R

racunnin

Registered
last weekend my check engine light came on, so today i went to autozone to have my codes read. it came up with two codes, a 111 which is a pass code that means that it is ok and a 181 code. the 181 code in the code manual read as follows: Adaptive fuel rich limit reached at part throttle, system lean, cylinder bank no. 1 (1990 on). the guy at autozone didn't know what to do to fix this code and i have been in class for the rest of the day, i was wondering if anyone knew what this deals with. any help is appreciated even if it means that i have to go through the hassle of working with local ford dealer.

thanks,
Ross
 
RE: engine code help

This might help, Open the fuse box in the engine compartment and check for a blown 20 amp fuse (it's green and one of the smaller ones). If I remember correctly it's for something associated with, and I'm quoting my Ford service guy, " the secondary air injection". Don't know if that was bs or not, but replace that fuse (if blown). Your check engine light will extinguish itself after the 4th or 5th time you start and drive your car.
I don't know why, but mine pops that fuse on occasion so I keep some spares in the console. It doesn't affect drivability when blown, but you might lose a few mpg.
Good Luck.
 
RE: engine code help

The O2 sensor on bank 1 (passenger side) has generated voltage indicating to the PCM that bank 1 is running lean. The PCM responds to this by increasing injector pulse width (longer on time). This is termed "Fuel Trim". It then rechecks O2 voltage, and if it still shows lean, trims up again. At an uptrim of 10%, the PCM turns on the MIL/check engine light, but continues to uptrim. It's capable of a maximum of 35%. If the PCM hits that, it sets 181.

Here's the copy and paste from the Emissions Manual:

"181 - Right or Rear Rich limit reached
183 - Right or Rear Rich limit reached
at idle
189 - Left or Front Rich limit reached
192 - Left or Front Rich limit reached
at idle
These DTCs indicate the system is running lean, although strategy adjusted it to maximum rich.

POSSIBLE CAUSES:
Fuel pressure.
Fuel injector.
Air intake.
MAF sensor.
Fuel injector electrical circuit.
Fuel filter.
Vacuum.
Air filter."

It could be a fuel delivery issue. I think the fact that only one of two banks goes lean would tend to rule out a fuel pump/pressure problem. I'd be looking for a restricted or dead injector, possibly.
I have no explanation to give you, but I've seen MAFs appear to affect one bank only.
If bank 1 O2 is deteriorated and not generating enough voltage, it could trick the PCM into thinking that bank is lean, when in actuality it's not.

To diagnose this properly, you should have fuel pressure checked, the injectors flow tested (most decent 'scopes do a Relative Injector Flow Test), and use a scan tool capable of letting you watch O2 and MAF voltages.
 
RE: engine code help

Guy, "Secondary Air Injection" is pumped fresh air into the exhaust to help the catalytic convertors burn off hydrocarbons. We used to call this "Thermactor Air". GM calls it A.I.R.

Thermactor pumps were always belt driven, but the new system uses a PCM controlled electric air pump. In Marks, they're down low under the battery. They are in a position that lets them get wet, sometimes to the point of actually injesting water. Over time they begin to bind, perhaps even siezing altogether. When their current draw gets high enough, they pop the 20amp fuse.

Since 1999, the replacement pumps you get from Ford have been redesigned and are much more impervious to moisture.
 
RE: engine code help

Thanks FrankieX, that would explain the occasional loud(er than usual) air pump noise I hear. I know it's not my air suspension compressor, as I can hear it faintly as well. You wouldn't happen to know approximate parts price, and is it a repair I can do at home? Thanks again.
 
RE: engine code help

No, because Ford of Canada prices bear no relation to U.S. prices!
It's not just the dollar exchange rate. Canada and the U.S. divisions use radically different pricing/mark-up policies.
I'd guess around 150 US$, but don't quote me!

Yes, it's no big deal to replace. Get the new one first, so you'll know what to look for under the car, because it sure doesn't look like an air pump.

I don't have the correct year/model prefixes and suffixes for you, but the basic part # is 9A486.
 
RE: engine code help

thanks alot for that detailed information, i am going to be changing my O2 sensor this week to see if that fixes it. if not then i will be contacting my mechcanic. i'll post the solution once found. again, thanks for your help.

Ross
 
RE: engine code help

thanks for all your help, i took it to the local ford dealer to have those diganostics ran. they found the problem, that 2 cylinders are not firing. to fix this they suggest new spark plugs and new wireset. they say they will put in for $430!!!! i asked them if they were serious, they were. i took the car home, which is a fraternity with no tools, no garage and no help, and tried to investigate how tough it was going to be to change to plugs and wire. i got the driver side cover off easy, but i can't get the air intake snorkel off. i can get it off the air filter but at the back of the engine i cant get it off. any tip on how to change those plugs, i would be all ears. thanks for any help.
 
RE: engine code help

Should take a small 1/4" drive ratchet in the square hole in the top to get the air tube off.
 
RE: engine code help

Two cylinders on the same bank aren't firing?? This car must be running like crap!

A little bit of information goes a long way. You only mentioned the MIL coming on in your first post, so any of us would have assumed the car had the light on but ran OK. This leads to an entirely different perspective on diagnostic possibilities.

Now, on the other hand, if you tell me the car is running fine, I'd seriously doubt the "2 cylinders not firing" theory.
 
RE: engine code help

As I recall, on my '94 there is a square hole/slot for a 1/4 inch socket driver in the top of the bolt that goes thru the throttle body. The bolt takes forever to back out, just keep at it. You don't have to completely remove the bolt to be able move the intake tube up over the engine, out of the way. I also had a tie down strap bolted midway over the valve cover to remove, before being able to move the tube. Once the tube is out of the way, the passenger side has more room than he driver side.

Remember not to over tighten the plugs, they only need 7 ft-lbs, as I recall. Check the gaps on the plug ends, depending on plugs and who you ask, anywhere from .48 to .54 gap. If you haven't pulled the wire off the plug yet, you may find them difficult to remove. If so, just peel back the side of the wire's soft cover to reveal the side of the wire's plastic tube inside the cylinder and carefully pry it out with a flat blade screwdriver. Remove, and replace one wire at a time to keep from replacing on wrong plug. In case you don't know it, the plugs are about 6 inches inside the valve cover. You will need an extension to get to it. You probaly will want a spark plug socket that has the rubber insert, which holds the spark plug when you raise the old ones, and lower the new ones.

Check the old ones for oil in the socket hole, you may have a valve cover leak around the spark plug gasket fouling the spark. You may be able to tell the bad plugs by the condition of the tips compared to the 6 good ones. If you think the plugs are bad only, button up everything and crank it up, see if it runs good. If you didn't have a oil leak, and you still have problems, pull the new plugs where the bad ones were(if you know) and see if the new ones were firing at all, if they are firing you may not need new wires and have a problem elsewhere. Otherwise change to new wires, again one at a time, longest wires to rear plugs, short to front. If that doesn't do it, try one of the two coils.
 
RE: engine code help

Sorry about that, my car runs like stir fried ####. Car had been running badly for so long, just forgot to mention it. My car used to be named "black beast", now it goes by "the rumbler". when i get out of class today im going to attack the spark plugs again, now that i have more info.
 
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