Factory Tech Seperator Plate

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98MK8

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Well, I had an appointment yesterday to have my tranny flushed, my Factory Tech seperator plate installed from scp, 3qt scp tranny pan/filter, but the tranny pan didn't come until today so i cancelled my appointment yesterday. The main reason i cancelled though, is because i'm unsure of this Factory Tech seperator plate i had ordered from SCP. The guy said it's better than doing a JMOD, but i'm unaware. I have a 98 LSC and i'd like to do a tranny flush pretty quick, but i'm not doing it without some type of internal modification to make it shift better.
I already purchased the Factory Tech seperator plate, i probably should have done a little more research, but i was excited, lol. Does anybody know about or use the Factory Tech seperator plate in their 97 or 98 Mark VIII's? Or what would be the best "shift kit" for the 97-98 Marks? I'm really curious about this Factory Tech though, any information would be very useful. Thank you i appreciate the help!
 
I've never heard of it, but my bet would be that it's about the same as a j-mod. I would replace accumulators and springs at the same time you put in the separator plate, and try to verify how the hole sizes compare to what you'd do with the j-mod.

I can tell you from experience, though, that whatever you do to the trans won't be enough until you can get a tune. Second gens kill power and shift really slow, you have to have a chip burnt to really pick things up. I did the j-mod on my '97 shortly after I got it, and it did help, but not nearly as much as the tune did. After I got it tuned, it would chirp second gear nicely.
 
From experience; those valve bodies that Greg has developed totally suck to put it plain and simple. Basically what Greg tried to do was to come up with one separator plate fits all, well it doesn't work. He starts with a truck valve body separator plate and then modifies it. I've fopened several of the so called bullet transmissions after they failed and all but one had a truck valve body in it. They are not recommended for any passenger car for performance.

I spent almost 3 months with a customer "mail order" and couldn't get it right. I've found that any vehicle that has any type of torque reduction it will totally mess up. He's got it set up to shift extremely hard with a stock tune. But the problem is that the trans will hesitate and buck during WOT. I finally gave up after numerous programs. The customer was told by Greg that I didn't know what I was doing and can't tune.

Then I had another SCT dealer that is very familiar with tuning 4R70W also run into another one of these valve bodies. He actually had the vehicle in front of him so he was able to data log everything. He ran into the exact same problems I did and gave up after a few days. Removed the kit and put a Jmod in it. After that everything was fine.

My recommendation to return it and do your own Jmod. Or you can purchase one.
 
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Lonnie said:
From experience; those valve bodies that Greg has developed totally suck to put it plain and simple. Basically what Greg tried to do was to come up with one separator plate fits all, well it doesn't work. He starts with a truck valve body separator plate and then modifies it. I've fopened several of the so called bullet transmissions after they failed and all but one had a truck valve body in it. They are not recommended for any passenger car for performance.

I spent almost 3 months with a customer "mail order" and couldn't get it right. I've found that any vehicle that has any type of torque reduction it will totally mess up. He's got it set up to shift extremely hard with a stock tune. But the problem is that the trans will hesitate and buck during WOT. I finally gave up after numerous programs. The customer was told by Greg that I didn't know what I was doing and can't tune.

Then I had another SCT dealer that is very familiar with tuning 4R70W also run into another one of these valve bodies. He actually had the vehicle in front of him so he was able to data log everything. He ran into the exact same problems I did and gave up after a few days. Removed the kit and put a Jmod in it. After that everything was fine.

My recommendation to return it and do your own Jmod. Or you can purchase one.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for the information. Well this is what I have done. I did order the Factory Tech shift seperator plate, and i haven't installed it, actually i've done a bit of research and I ordered the Bauman Re-cal kit. Do you recommend this? And will I have the problems you described above with this Bauman kit? I'm probably going to do a stage 3 with the bauman. I'm not installing the Factory Tech, although my friend has a 94 and just installed the Factory Tech valve body and he LOVES it, and it does shift absolutely beautiful, but i'm not trusting the seperator plate on my 98. Thank you so much for the comments and suggestions, and i'll appreciate more to this post. Thanks again!

Brady
 
I can vouch for the Baumann. The Gen 2 kit is different slightly, I do not know how, but my Gen 1 ROCKS with the Baumann set on max with moderate torque. This is with the very early 4R70W as well.
 
Your friend may have one of the first sep plate from him. They were build one at a time back then for each vehicle. Now they are laser cut and one fits all so of course it there's no guaranty if it will work.

As for the Baumann kit; I've installed a few and ran one on my Tbird before I learned the correct way of modifying a 4R70W valve body. I even spent some time at the Baumann shop when I lived in SC. Their kit is ok and it can be tuned around.

Why don't you just do the Jmod? It's very simple to install and would cost you less even if you purchased each part from the dealership. I can even supply you with a complete sep plate already modified for your application. So you would actually be getting a custom set up tailored to your car. I can supply all the gaskets, new pistons, seals and needed springs for $50. I would need your stock separator plate back or a $75 core.

If you are all bent on just spending the money I also have the complete valve body kit. You get a custom built valve body that all you have to do is swap it out with yours. It also includes the accumulator springs and pistons.

At least with these you have something that is built just for you application and not a one kit fit all.
 
Lonnie, this seperator plate you can sell for $50 bucks, is it basically the same thing as a J-Mod but the plate is already drilled to the j-mod specs?
 
Well, i already purchased the bauman, and i'm going to go with that for now and see how it goes. Probably go with the Stage 3? Any recomendations on that? I want FAST shifts, but not real hard, just QUICK, speed, that's my main concern. Breaking your tires loose when you shift doesn't necessarily mean that's the best way to go, almost a little dangerous in a way. I just want firm, quick shifts, not something thats gonna bark my tired every time i shift, that'd be extremely annoying, and probably a little hard on the entire driveline. Firm, QUICK, shifts, that's what I want. Alot of people have recommended the Bauman kit and i'm going to stick with that for now, but thanks for your offer I do appreciate it. Thanks. Any opinions or suggestions are appreciated, thanks.
 
Seeing how mine is a Gen 1 and yours is a Gen2, this may or may not help: http://imageevent.com/driller/baumannshiftkit

I went with Level 5(max) and "Torque setting" A(Naturally Aspirated).

My shifts are directly proportional to the throttle. Light throttle yields quick but moderate shifts while WOT are traction breaking and you must make sure you are straight and on a good surface if you do not want to be suprised. The first time the wife rode with me after the install, she asked "Does it always do that?"(meaning violently break traction at the 1-2 shift), and I replied "Only when you push hard on the long skinny pedal". :D

If you can find someone nearby with the Baumann kit on Level 5, take a test drive. That's what I did to sell myself. ;)
 
I think I was a bit too wussy and we set mine to 4 (I think). 5 was fun, but I thought it would be too harsh for everyday stop and go driving. The 1/2 shift (especially now with the chip) is VERY firm, so much so that my mother noticed it when she took my car for a week last year. Of course, lead feet run in the family.
 
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