At 116,000 miles, but with new ceramic pads 25,000 miles ago, the brakes started to make noise during the 3rd or 4th application at 75-80 mph. Took the brakes down. At least another 20,000 miles left on the pads. Touching the edge of the rotor and I could feel a ridge-the rotors were shot. These were OEM and had NEVER been resurfaced. (A pro mechanic told me about 10 years ago that he stopped resurfacing unless a rotor was damaged because they were now so thin.) 116,000 miles!!! Not bad.
I replaced the rotors and the pads. I used EBC Greenstuff pads, which are made with Kevlar. Pep Boys had them for $99.99. I think that's the same price as online, but I'm not going back to double check. Knowing this crowd here, if I'm wrong, some one will be gracious enough to let every one know how stupid I am.
These are supposed to be vitually dust free. The green are the lightest grade and are rated for fast street or light duty racing and are good to 550 degrees Centigrade. They come in three other grades, with the heaviest duty good up to 900 degrees Centigrade.
The instructions include a break in procedure of five trips to 40 mph and rapid, but incomplete stops.
My observation: 900 degrees Centigrade is HOT. It seems that regular pads would be hard pressed to get to that temp, so why would a rotor warp at a lower temp than what the racing brakes produce. I can already hear some of you saying that racing brakes need racing rotors. OK, but some guys on here have tried the racing rotors and they have "warped". This mfgr recommends a break in procedure. I'm starting to lean to favoring the white paper.
Bottom line: After installation, I did the break in procedure. I did the first one at 40 mph, but did 6 more at increasing speeds up to 70. I could smell the pads. At that point, I drove about another 5 minutes without a prolonged stop at any stop light to let them cool. Parked the car without applying the brakes-used the emergency. Will drive it again tomorrow and then I have a 150 mile trip for work on Monday and Wednesday.
Amusing point: The brake pad mfgr talks about their racing brakes being good up to 900 degrees Centigrade. They also recommend a break in procedure. On the box that the 'greenstuff' pads (the lowest rating, for street) came in, it says "improved thermal conductivity preventing rotor warping". Hmmmm.
I replaced the rotors and the pads. I used EBC Greenstuff pads, which are made with Kevlar. Pep Boys had them for $99.99. I think that's the same price as online, but I'm not going back to double check. Knowing this crowd here, if I'm wrong, some one will be gracious enough to let every one know how stupid I am.
These are supposed to be vitually dust free. The green are the lightest grade and are rated for fast street or light duty racing and are good to 550 degrees Centigrade. They come in three other grades, with the heaviest duty good up to 900 degrees Centigrade.
The instructions include a break in procedure of five trips to 40 mph and rapid, but incomplete stops.
My observation: 900 degrees Centigrade is HOT. It seems that regular pads would be hard pressed to get to that temp, so why would a rotor warp at a lower temp than what the racing brakes produce. I can already hear some of you saying that racing brakes need racing rotors. OK, but some guys on here have tried the racing rotors and they have "warped". This mfgr recommends a break in procedure. I'm starting to lean to favoring the white paper.
Bottom line: After installation, I did the break in procedure. I did the first one at 40 mph, but did 6 more at increasing speeds up to 70. I could smell the pads. At that point, I drove about another 5 minutes without a prolonged stop at any stop light to let them cool. Parked the car without applying the brakes-used the emergency. Will drive it again tomorrow and then I have a 150 mile trip for work on Monday and Wednesday.
Amusing point: The brake pad mfgr talks about their racing brakes being good up to 900 degrees Centigrade. They also recommend a break in procedure. On the box that the 'greenstuff' pads (the lowest rating, for street) came in, it says "improved thermal conductivity preventing rotor warping". Hmmmm.