Ok I need to know who has ever changed the pump by cutting a hole in the floor in under the seat. some one steer me in the right direction because I am changing the pump this weekend (I have the dreaded vapor lock problem)and I more than likely will not be able to drop the tank where I am. Some one give me some advice.
fuel pump changing some one gimme some advice
- Thread starter djgios97
- Start date
sleeper
Former LOD President
RE: fuel pump changing some one gimme some advice
I wouldn't go cutting holes in random spots on any unibody car for any reason. Drop the tank, it's only four bolts.
I did cut a hole in the floor to do the job on my blazer. It was a $1000 vehicle though, and it was body on frame, so i didn't affect the structure. Cutting a hole in the transmission tunnel of a mark will most likely adversely affect the chassis stiffness and strength, and is a bad idea. I drove my thunderbird without a rear windshield in it once, and even that made the car feel noticeably less stiff. As bad as a convertible almost.
I wouldn't go cutting holes in random spots on any unibody car for any reason. Drop the tank, it's only four bolts.
I did cut a hole in the floor to do the job on my blazer. It was a $1000 vehicle though, and it was body on frame, so i didn't affect the structure. Cutting a hole in the transmission tunnel of a mark will most likely adversely affect the chassis stiffness and strength, and is a bad idea. I drove my thunderbird without a rear windshield in it once, and even that made the car feel noticeably less stiff. As bad as a convertible almost.
RE: fuel pump changing some one gimme some advice
Couple of weeks ago I replaced my drive shaft which dropping fuel tank is a requirement. Only took two hours to do it all( exhaust, fuel tank then shaft). Not too bad at all. I may have been lucky...no rust at all under car. Thanks Maryland weather.
Bud Pytko
'97 LSC Silver Frost
'92 F250 Banks TurboDiesel Bimini Blue
http://myfilelocker.comcast.net/charlespytko/Lincoln/BudPytko97LSC.JPG
Couple of weeks ago I replaced my drive shaft which dropping fuel tank is a requirement. Only took two hours to do it all( exhaust, fuel tank then shaft). Not too bad at all. I may have been lucky...no rust at all under car. Thanks Maryland weather.
Bud Pytko
'97 LSC Silver Frost
'92 F250 Banks TurboDiesel Bimini Blue
http://myfilelocker.comcast.net/charlespytko/Lincoln/BudPytko97LSC.JPG
RE: fuel pump changing some one gimme some advice
Ok well it was a thought, also guys, can some one copy and paste tank dropping procedures. I know that some one said that cutting a small hole in the forward part of the floor on the passenger side is easier. Where is the pump anyway? Passenger side front of the tank right?
Ok well it was a thought, also guys, can some one copy and paste tank dropping procedures. I know that some one said that cutting a small hole in the forward part of the floor on the passenger side is easier. Where is the pump anyway? Passenger side front of the tank right?
JaxFlConnor
Registered
RE: fuel pump changing some one gimme some advice
http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12parts/fuel-pump/fpk-install/fuel-pump-kit-install.htm
thats for t-birds... not sure if it's similar for mark's
http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12parts/fuel-pump/fpk-install/fuel-pump-kit-install.htm
thats for t-birds... not sure if it's similar for mark's
RE: fuel pump changing some one gimme some advice
I ran it down to 1/4 tank...it rested on my (adult) son's chest. Wasn't a problem.
Bud Pytko
'97 LSC Silver Frost
'92 F250 Banks TurboDiesel Bimini Blue
http://myfilelocker.comcast.net/charlespytko/Lincoln/BudPytko97LSC.JPG
I ran it down to 1/4 tank...it rested on my (adult) son's chest. Wasn't a problem.
Bud Pytko
'97 LSC Silver Frost
'92 F250 Banks TurboDiesel Bimini Blue
http://myfilelocker.comcast.net/charlespytko/Lincoln/BudPytko97LSC.JPG
RE: fuel pump changing some one gimme some advice
Changing the fuel pump is much harder than removing the driveshaft. For the driveshaft, you only have to drop the tank a little. I completely removed the tank when I did the fuel pump, and when you do this, you have to remove a couple rubber hoses that attach to the tank. Thats the one thing I hate the most when working on cars- removing hoses. Those stupid clamps that are always pointed the wrong direction, trying to tug on a hose when you don't have any room to tug, trying to get the rerouted again in the right direction. I don't want to have to do the fuel pump again. Then again it wasn't anything like the header install.
When I worked at ford, on a test vehicle we were doing fuel pump tests. We cut a hole underneath the back seat so we could swap the pump easily.
Changing the fuel pump is much harder than removing the driveshaft. For the driveshaft, you only have to drop the tank a little. I completely removed the tank when I did the fuel pump, and when you do this, you have to remove a couple rubber hoses that attach to the tank. Thats the one thing I hate the most when working on cars- removing hoses. Those stupid clamps that are always pointed the wrong direction, trying to tug on a hose when you don't have any room to tug, trying to get the rerouted again in the right direction. I don't want to have to do the fuel pump again. Then again it wasn't anything like the header install.
When I worked at ford, on a test vehicle we were doing fuel pump tests. We cut a hole underneath the back seat so we could swap the pump easily.
deadbugdug
Registered
RE: fuel pump changing some one gimme some advice
Ok, I must be the only guy who cut a hole in his floor. I must confess, I didn't do any cutting until I actually dropped the tank because I didn't know exactly where to cut, nor did I want to cut the tank with the floor!
Sorry, I don't have pictures. But I did figure out where to cut the hole (under the passenger side of the rear seat), cut the hole, then bought a piece of sheetmetal to put over the new hole. I did have to cut the patch panel to fit around a bump in the floor, so it's not a perfect square. I bought body clips that were threaded (wish I can remember the proper name for the clips), like the clips used with fender bolts to hold the fender on. I have 4 bolts holding the patch panel on using those clips. I did make sure the tank was up in place before drilling the holes for the bolts because in certain spots, the tank comes very close to the floorboard and I didn't want to screw a bolt into the tank. One other thing I did was "paint" the underside of the body where the gas tank sits, my new patch panel, and the metal shield (or rather, what was left of the metal shield) that covers the gas tank with a product called POR-15 to prevent rust.
I still had to drop the tank out THE FIRST TIME, but from now on, as God is my witness, I WILL NEVER HAVE TO DROP MY TANK AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!
Ok, I must be the only guy who cut a hole in his floor. I must confess, I didn't do any cutting until I actually dropped the tank because I didn't know exactly where to cut, nor did I want to cut the tank with the floor!
Sorry, I don't have pictures. But I did figure out where to cut the hole (under the passenger side of the rear seat), cut the hole, then bought a piece of sheetmetal to put over the new hole. I did have to cut the patch panel to fit around a bump in the floor, so it's not a perfect square. I bought body clips that were threaded (wish I can remember the proper name for the clips), like the clips used with fender bolts to hold the fender on. I have 4 bolts holding the patch panel on using those clips. I did make sure the tank was up in place before drilling the holes for the bolts because in certain spots, the tank comes very close to the floorboard and I didn't want to screw a bolt into the tank. One other thing I did was "paint" the underside of the body where the gas tank sits, my new patch panel, and the metal shield (or rather, what was left of the metal shield) that covers the gas tank with a product called POR-15 to prevent rust.
I still had to drop the tank out THE FIRST TIME, but from now on, as God is my witness, I WILL NEVER HAVE TO DROP MY TANK AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!
RE: fuel pump changing some one gimme some advice
It wasn't a Mark VIII- it was a Ford Taurus FFV (flex fuel vehicle) These were tauruses that could run off of ethanol as well as gasoline, though nobody ever did, it was just to get CAFE fuel credits. Rental car companies had them, but they were having a problem where the fuel pump's impeller would expand at high temperatures and weld itself to the walls of the fuel pump. So the car would die and not be able to be restarted, and this usually happened in hot areas like deserts. We were doing a lot of fuel pump swapping. Nobody really heard about this because the same day we did the recall Ford also recalled all those Firestone tires. . .
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Ok so no draining then. Just curious was that a Mark VIII that you were doing test on? Where under the back seat?
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It wasn't a Mark VIII- it was a Ford Taurus FFV (flex fuel vehicle) These were tauruses that could run off of ethanol as well as gasoline, though nobody ever did, it was just to get CAFE fuel credits. Rental car companies had them, but they were having a problem where the fuel pump's impeller would expand at high temperatures and weld itself to the walls of the fuel pump. So the car would die and not be able to be restarted, and this usually happened in hot areas like deserts. We were doing a lot of fuel pump swapping. Nobody really heard about this because the same day we did the recall Ford also recalled all those Firestone tires. . .
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Ok so no draining then. Just curious was that a Mark VIII that you were doing test on? Where under the back seat?
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RE: fuel pump changing some one gimme some advice
Ok so I did it, there is a grommet in the floor that I pulled open and looked onto the tank top and saw that there was a TON of room. I drew out a U shape and cranked up the cut off wheel and in five minutes of cutting I had the sheet metal pulled back, unscrewed the top, slid out (of course I disconnected the lines and electrical) the canister and BAM, I changed my pump. OK it wasn't that easy, I got the canister apart, and fuelpumps.net sent me the WRONG part!!!!. ####!! I tried to locate a pump for a cobra, no go. So we found an OEM ford, brand new assembly for 217 bucks. Agh, yes, the car runs like a champ. There was one inch of sludge on the bottom of the canister and the pump filter was clogged so bad I don't know how the car ran. The pump must have been over heating hard core. Well I have a new one and I am sure that I will not have anymore vaporlocking anymore. The car actually runs MUCH better.
Ok so I did it, there is a grommet in the floor that I pulled open and looked onto the tank top and saw that there was a TON of room. I drew out a U shape and cranked up the cut off wheel and in five minutes of cutting I had the sheet metal pulled back, unscrewed the top, slid out (of course I disconnected the lines and electrical) the canister and BAM, I changed my pump. OK it wasn't that easy, I got the canister apart, and fuelpumps.net sent me the WRONG part!!!!. ####!! I tried to locate a pump for a cobra, no go. So we found an OEM ford, brand new assembly for 217 bucks. Agh, yes, the car runs like a champ. There was one inch of sludge on the bottom of the canister and the pump filter was clogged so bad I don't know how the car ran. The pump must have been over heating hard core. Well I have a new one and I am sure that I will not have anymore vaporlocking anymore. The car actually runs MUCH better.
RE: fuel pump changing some one gimme some advice
Fuel should be done as stated by others by droping the tank, try to ensure that you have as little fuel left in the tank, as this will ease your having to fight getting the tank back on the vehicle with the added weight of the fuel.
You'll first be required to disconnect the exhaust pipes, and muffler assembly. The bolts will appear to spin in place when attempting to disconnect, they however are designed to do that and a locking tab helps to finalize removalm and installation.
Various lines leading from the tank to the fill fuel line will be removed. Mark these for easy re installation
A Heat sheild will require removal and you can get to the 4 bolts during this process.
The same jack used to lift the car can now be used as a lowering device for the fuel tank, a block of wood should be used to prevent damage to the underside of the tank as it is made of a plasticlike material, which has the the ability to be ruptured.
A hammer and punch are used to dislodge the lockring holding the pump inside the tank.
Care should be taken when removing the pump from the tank so as not to damage the float that registers the ammount of fuel in the tank. You don't have to be surgical about it, but be patient and gently rock the pump and the float, as they come out as a unit.
Instructions on installation are usually supplied in the box and are not as complicated as they might first appear. There is an issue of a little tab that attaches itself to the strainer. Simply use a very small socket, the smallest 1/4 incher you have to use as a punch to reattach it to the pump.
When returning the new O ring, use a high tach spray adhesive on the new O ring to ensure that it stays put along the outer edge of the pump housing, as this will not usually try to co-operate upon reinstallation, it will try to walk itself out of the groove.
If you can get away with not disconnecting the fuel lines, working around the situation, fine, it was necessary for me to disconnect mines because of the excess in fuel still in the tank that needed to be dumped.
Fuel should be done as stated by others by droping the tank, try to ensure that you have as little fuel left in the tank, as this will ease your having to fight getting the tank back on the vehicle with the added weight of the fuel.
You'll first be required to disconnect the exhaust pipes, and muffler assembly. The bolts will appear to spin in place when attempting to disconnect, they however are designed to do that and a locking tab helps to finalize removalm and installation.
Various lines leading from the tank to the fill fuel line will be removed. Mark these for easy re installation
A Heat sheild will require removal and you can get to the 4 bolts during this process.
The same jack used to lift the car can now be used as a lowering device for the fuel tank, a block of wood should be used to prevent damage to the underside of the tank as it is made of a plasticlike material, which has the the ability to be ruptured.
A hammer and punch are used to dislodge the lockring holding the pump inside the tank.
Care should be taken when removing the pump from the tank so as not to damage the float that registers the ammount of fuel in the tank. You don't have to be surgical about it, but be patient and gently rock the pump and the float, as they come out as a unit.
Instructions on installation are usually supplied in the box and are not as complicated as they might first appear. There is an issue of a little tab that attaches itself to the strainer. Simply use a very small socket, the smallest 1/4 incher you have to use as a punch to reattach it to the pump.
When returning the new O ring, use a high tach spray adhesive on the new O ring to ensure that it stays put along the outer edge of the pump housing, as this will not usually try to co-operate upon reinstallation, it will try to walk itself out of the groove.
If you can get away with not disconnecting the fuel lines, working around the situation, fine, it was necessary for me to disconnect mines because of the excess in fuel still in the tank that needed to be dumped.
M8SHOSCGUY
Registered
RE: fuel pump changing some one gimme some advice
As one who has done a fuel pumps (not my MK8 just yet however), draining the tank of a few gallons before you remove the tank isn't that bad. Pop off the fuel filter, install a rubber hose onto the fuel tank end. Place other end of the rubber hose into your standard gas can. Then work the ignition key on and off at like two second intervals. You can hear the pump try to pressurize the system. It will take like 15 minutes to get like 3 gallons out. For a few gallons, much safer than dropping a tank and chance sloshing it all over you. Would be nice if you could siphon it out, but that doesn't work through a stopped fuel pump. Worked for me.
mark
As one who has done a fuel pumps (not my MK8 just yet however), draining the tank of a few gallons before you remove the tank isn't that bad. Pop off the fuel filter, install a rubber hose onto the fuel tank end. Place other end of the rubber hose into your standard gas can. Then work the ignition key on and off at like two second intervals. You can hear the pump try to pressurize the system. It will take like 15 minutes to get like 3 gallons out. For a few gallons, much safer than dropping a tank and chance sloshing it all over you. Would be nice if you could siphon it out, but that doesn't work through a stopped fuel pump. Worked for me.
mark