Full brake job

M

M Darrah

Registered
Screw it. I've searched for an hour, and can only find bits and pieces of what I want to know.

Is there any place out there that has a step by step procedure (WITH PICTURES) for doing the front and rear brakes? The service manual is broken up into a half-dozen different procedures, and some of it's just plain vague. The last set of brakes I replaced was on my first car, a 1970 Maverick, and my dad did most of the work.

Just an FYI, I intend to bleed the fluid at the same time.

Besides that, I have a few specific questions:

1. What the heck is this tool for the rear brakes I keep hearing about used for? I've seen dozens of pictures of the tool, but I've never seen a picture of what you use it on. Also, I heard one side needs to be ground off for clearance. Which side? There's a Harbor Freight outlet store close to me. I assume they'll have it there.

2. Besides rotors and pads, what else do I need? Should I buy caliper rebuild kits just to be safe?

3. What else in the way of tools do I need?

4. Anybody in the Chicago area want to give me a hand? It looks pretty straightforward, but some of you know me... Enough said. ::nono::

Thanks.
 
RE: Full brake job

I just did all the rotors and pads and one caliper on mine.I have the tool's. The one for the fronts and the backs.I'm in Plainfield let me know when your doing this I can most def give you a hand.
 
RE: Full brake job

You need rotors and pads. If your calipers are sticking, you need to either rebuild them or replace them. If one side is worn worse than the other side or if the car pulls when you hit the brakes that could be an indication of a sticking caliper.

Instructions for front:

raise and support vehicle

remove wheel

remove two bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket, and hang the caliper out of the way. the pads will fall off or pull right off now.

Remove the two larger bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the spindle. This should allow the rotor to slide off the hub. A hammer or other implement may be needed if it's stuck. There may be two threaded holes in the center (hat) section of the rotor which would allow you to thread some size bolt in there to push against the hub and force the rotor off if necessary, i've never done that though.

make sure the hub (wheel bearings) rotates freely now that everthing is off of it. Listen for bad noises and check for looseness.

Use a large C clamp to compress the caliper piston. I use the old brake pad as a cushion to prevent damaging the caliper. You may need to remove the cap to the brake fluid reservoir for this step. If you have to replace the calipers, you will be able to skip this step, just hook the brake line up to the new caliper and bleed the brakes before putting the wheel back on.

Remove the pins from the caliper bracket. Just pull them out, but be careful with the boots. The pins are what the caliper bolts to and they allow the caliper to float so that equal pressure is applied to both sides of the rotor. They should slide in and out easily. Apply some grease to them and reinsert them, making sure the boots are put on the bracket right to keep dust out.

Reinstall everything the same way it came off. Spray the rotor liberally with brake cleaner.

It's pretty simple overall. Make sure you hit the brakes a couple of times before driving off to seat the calipers on the pads and rotors.

For the rear:

It's much the same. Once you do the fronts you should be able to figure it all out. Pull off the caliper, i'm not sure if there's a caliper bracket, slide off the rotor, compress the caliper, put it all back together. The one major difference is that the piston on the caliper has to be rotated as it's compressed. This is where the special tool comes in. There are two indentations in the caliper piston where the tool engages. The cheapo autozone tool just hooks to a ratchet and requires you to push by hand while rotating, and it's a PITA. There are nicer sets out there that have a plate that pushes against the caliper and compresses the piston as it rotates. Myself, any time i've had to do rear brakes i've had to replace my calipers anyway, so i've pretty much avoided having to rotate them back in.

Tools:

Large c-clamp

set of wrenches (gear wrenches preferred) (metric)

impact or 4 way to remove wheel

that stupid little tool to rotate the rear caliper piston

parts/supplies:

pads (ceramic enhanced preferred)

rotors (buy the good ones from NAPA, always for a gen 2 even if you drive a gen 1, skip the autozone cheapies)

calipers or caliper rebuild kits as required

brake cleaner

brake fluid if replacing or rebuilding calipers

small amount of grease
 
RE: Full brake job



You might want to consider using threadlocker (blue) when you're putting the bolts back on. Just a thought.
 
RE: Full brake job

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
You might want to consider using threadlocker (blue) when you're putting the bolts back on. Just a thought.
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I wouldn't. I've never had one back out, but i've had them stick. Just make sure they're good and tight and you'll be fine.
 
RE: Full brake job

Harbour Freight has the rear piston tool set for $40, somtimes on sale for $20.It has adapters for several car brands.
 
RE: Full brake job


AutoZone will lend you that tool set for free, with a refundable deposit. The tool that NAPA sells for use on the Mark VIII seems to work the best. It's a metal disk that is used with a 3/8 inch drive, LTIL it was under $20. The nubs on the tool are a little longer than on the tool set, and thus easier to use.

Brake jobs aren't hard. Great way to save money.
 
RE: Full brake job

Sorry for not responding to the replies earlier, but I'm just now getting around to tackling this, hopefully this weekend.

I ordered a set of Wagner ThermoQuiet pads on the recommendation of Frankie X. They should be here Friday. I'll probably just go get a set of rotors from NAPA.

My question is this: What exactly constitutes the need for new calipers or a rebuild kit? The car's got 49K on it right now. Should I be okay? Seems like a double-edged sword. If I buy calipers or a rebuild kit and the old ones turn out to be fine, then I've wasted my money. And if I find out mine are bad after I tear into it, then I've got the hassle of having to find a set at the last minute.

And what's the advantage of buying new calipers rather than using a rebuild kit, besides the trouble? Obviously the disadvantage is cost.

Oh, and thanks for the instructions Dave. I've got them printed out. I'm hoping to get some help, but it may be just me (and Sharon watching from the sidelines). :7

Ehh, another question: What's it cost to have a professional bleed and replace the fluid? I know you can't get to the fluid in the ABS pump and was wondering if it's worth the money to have a "proper" job done on it.
 
RE: Full brake job

if you don't run the reservoir out of air, there is no need to run the abs pump to bleed the brakes. really, if you want to be lazy, just crack the bleeder, make sure the reservoir is full and the cap is off, and have a beer. it will pretty much bleed itself. of course, it's better to have someone pump the brakes then hold the brake while you crack the bleeder and retighten it, then repeat a few times. i've done it both ways.

i've never rebuilt a caliper, i'm sure it's not rocket science, but most places will just sell you a rebuilt one anyway. the shop my friend works at does calipers with every brake job because they have a warranty. but if you're not getting abnormal wear or any wierd brake pulling, your calipers are probably fine. if one wheel is wearing faster than the other, replace the caliper, or calipers. if you have a low pedal and notice a leak from one caliper, replace the calipers. i do one axle at a time, usually. if you just do one you may be doing the other too soon.

the calipers will usually be in stock somewhere, so as long as you have another ride you can wait and see if you need them.

brakes are one thing where it's not worth it to pay someone. brake jobs easily run into the 300-400 range, and it really only costs 200 max to replace everything yourself, and on our cars it's pretty easy.
 
RE: Full brake job

Sorry maybe i'm jumping this thread to late, but you stated that your car has 49k on it??!! You're saying that you need a complete brake job, why is that? The front brakes should last 80k easy, the rears should last 100k. Why would you even consider buying stock calipers??? Upgrade to the Cobra 2 piston calipers and 13 inch front rotors, for the same or less money you will spend doing what you're planning to do.
 
RE: Full brake job

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Sorry maybe i'm jumping this thread to late, but you stated that your car has 49k on it??!! You're saying that you need a complete brake job, why is that? The front brakes should last 80k easy, the rears should last 100k. Why would you even consider buying stock calipers??? Upgrade to the Cobra 2 piston calipers and 13 inch front rotors, for the same or less money you will spend doing what you're planning to do.
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Well, the left front is squeaking to high heaven just driving down the road, and the brake light comes on every time I make a right turn. I felt the front rotors and there's a good sized (1/16"+) ridge on the outer edge. So I figure it needs to be done. I know I could just fill up the reservoir to get rid of the light, but that doesn't address the root cause.

I think it's kind of luck of the draw with brakes. I got about 80,000 out of the brakes on my '95 'Bird (which then got totalled two weeks after I had a complete brake job done).

In any case, I could probably get by with just the fronts, but I might as well do them all.

I saw your post about your Cobra calipers. VERY nice! I'd absolutely LOVE to go with those, but you forgot to add the cost of a set of 17" wheels (and tires) in your calulations. :7
 
RE: Full brake job

::roll:: Sometimes I forget that other marks have the stock wheels. ::roll:: . If my dad didn't throw out ::nono:: my old front calipers you could have had them for free. Hmm well then I still wouldn't touch the calipers unless you see them leaking. And i would buy a set used on ebay or a local junkyard. The retail is WAYY high on those.
 
RE: Full brake job

Stupid question #14: I held off on buying rear rotors. Will it be okay to install the rear pads with the old rotors or should I hold off until I replace the rotors too? The rears LOOK fine (no gouges), but I haven't measured them or anything and probably won't unless the Lester household has a micrometer. I'm not exactly anxious to do the rears, but I still intend to bleed the entire system, so while I've got the wheels off...

Looks like it's just gonna be me and Sharon tomorrow. Should be fun. Honestly though, it doesn't sound too bad. Still gotta buy a torque wrench, then I should be set.
 
RE: Full brake job

take a look at the pads on the rear. if they look good, don't bother. if not, swap 'em. you don't need to do the rotors when you do the pads.
 
RE: Full brake job

I think Mark comes here just so he can get a chance to drive my car. :+

Yet again, his car causes problems, and a run needs to be made to the parts store. At least it's consistent. :7
 
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