Help!!!! Is this part of the upper radiator hose?

D

Dstl1

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So, long story short....my mother in law's 2001 LS throws a check engine code and she says it's idling rough. She took it to Autozone where they read the code. Misfire cylinder 3. Fine I go get some plugs and get in there (getting to 1,2 and 3 sucked). Plugs done. Get it all back together and fire it up. Still missing...HARD! Ok, must be the coil. Get the plenum back off and switch out the #3 ignition coil. In the process of getting it all back together I accidentally leaned my weight on a little hose and snapped the spout (for lack of a better word) off. The hose runs from a hard plastic section connected to the upper radiator hose and supplies coolant to the throttle body. I called every part store and they have the upper hose, but when I ask them about the plastic part with the air bleed valve they have no clue. I called the Lincoln dealer and they tell me that part does not come apart and I can get it and all connecting hoses for $200 bucks. If it does not come out, why the heck are the parts stores selling a molded rubber hose? How would you use it? And can someone please tell me what the name of this thing is? By the way, I fixed the miss but I couldn't leave it running long due to coolant spurting out of that plastic section. Please help! :mad:
 
That center section with the throttle body feed and air bleed port is moulded into the hose; what do the aftermarket guys think they'll sell you?

You want part # YW4Z-8B502-AA, and yes, it's ~ $200.oo.

You really don't have much choice, do you? ... unless you want to try Crazy Glue or JB Weld...
 
Thank you very much, sir. Unfortunately I have already attempted the JB plastic weld. For some reason the plastic once broken became extremely brittle. Each time I attempted to handle it a little piece would chip off, making it harder and harder to get a good connection to the main part. I guess this is what the parts stores where going to sell...http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1373891&parttype=2058&a=FRc1373891k236154. Oh, well. Off I go to the Lincoln dealership to make the parts guy's day. I work on Hyundais and I've never seen that before. Usually the coolant line for the throttle body runs up from the bottom. You can barely see it unless you're looking for it, much less lean on it. Thanks again.
 
one more ? How much coolant should i lose when I replace the hose. Should it all have pretty much drained back down? I just don't wanna get into having an air pocket and all that.
 
How much coolant will you lose? Who knows?

Talking about coolant, LSs use a Ford type with diagnostic ability that CANNOT be mixed with any other type; it even has a part #!

From the book:

"-If Premium Engine Coolant E2FZ-19549-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A has a clear, light green or blue color, this indicates higher water content than necessary.
-Dark brown indicates unauthorized stop leak may have been used.
-A light or reddish-brown color indicates rust in the cooling system. Flush the system and refill with the correct mixture of water and Premium Engine Coolant E2FZ-19549-AA (in Oregon F5FZ-19549-CC) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A.
-An iridescent sheen on top of the coolant indicates a trace of oil is entering the cooling system.
-A milky brown color may indicate that engine oil is entering the cooling system."

Mix it 50/50 with water when adding.

Getting all the air out of an LS is a nightmare. Here's a short version of the fill/bleed procedure:

-Open the air bleed port on the piece you're replacing.

-Look near the overflow bottle. You'll see a tube stcking out from under the wiper cowl. That's the heater core bleed. Open it.

-Fill the system until coolant comes out the bleed port on the rad hose. Close it.

-Start the car and turn the heater to maximum heat. When a steady stream of coolant comes out of the heat bleed tube, shut it.

-Let the engine idle ~ 5 minutes, shut it off, and top off the bottle.

-Restart it and let it idle. Re-open the heater bleed and let any further air out.

-Run the engine @ 1500 RPM for 5 more minutes. Is full heat coming out of the heater core? If not, open the heater bleed AGAIN!

- Shut the engine off and allow it to cool completely before topping off the bottle.

Good luck!!!
 
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lol...well somewhere along the line someone put in regular green stuff. She bought it used with 60k miles on it. I guess the previous owner took it to Jiffy Lube or something and not the dealer. I'll follow these steps to a tee...thanks again, man.
 
Get that out of there.

The E2FZ-19549-AA stuff is needed for compatability with the the engine's aluminum alloys (so I've always been taught - does anybody else know different?)
 
well after reading the description, maybe i'm wrong. It says if it is light green then that means too much water so I would think it should be some shade of green, right?
 
You might be OK.

Is it a bright flourescent yellowy/green? If you had a black light to shine on some, it will glow!

You're probably going to have to buy a jug to top off with anyway.
 
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yay. I get to buy a $20 jug of coolant after the mark-up. These manufacturers kill me with the coolants. I just had to buy of a jug of the pink Toyota coolant the other day.
 
so I just left the Ford dealership...Got the part. It listed at $203 + tax. The parts guy worked out a cash ticket and used my dealership (Hyundai). So I ended up paying $172 all together. Also, we checked the coolant book and they used regular green up until prod. date July 02. So looks like I'm ok there, too.
 
My mistake; I totally forgot about the split date on early production!

The fill/bleed procedure never changed,though.
 
Dstl1 said:
so I just left the Ford dealership...Got the part. It listed at $203 + tax. The parts guy worked out a cash ticket and used my dealership (Hyundai). So I ended up paying $172 all together. Also, we checked the coolant book and they used regular green up until prod. date July 02. So looks like I'm ok there, too.
Click to expand...

Ok, I'm assuming that the part I need is the same as what you just got. I took in my wife's 2000 LS into the shop assuming a radiator hose was busted. The guy called me in to show me this plastic piece that has like 3 or 4 connection (hoses) running to other parts of the car. He applied pressure and the plastic thing started to leak. Did you get a part # for this item or is it the YW4Z-8B502-AA that's previously mentioned? Any pix? I just don't want to chase the wrong part. What is this thing called anyways? Thanks in advance!!!
 
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Here are a few pictures of what I'm talking about. I circled the part that I need. Any help is greatly appreciated.

CIMG213702.jpg

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CIMG214002.jpg

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CIMG214302.jpg

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CIMG214602.jpg
 
Yes, it's the same part Dstl1 needed.

-YW4Z-8B502-AA It's just referred to as the upper hose assembly.

When you replace it, follow the fill and bleed procedure posted earlier in this thread.
 
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