High Load % continued-

I didn't check the voltage on the new tps, but it was just replaced with a motorcraft part along with the iac. Cleaned the maf in the housing, maybe i have to take it out to clean it. Also need to do oxygen sensors, but everything else looks good to me imo.
 
Dang...replacing everything to try and track this down. I wonder if anyone else can post there engine load %'s for comparison?
 
Very very quick now. I'm driving the car to minnesota on sept 7th. from southern florida lol. On the downside, theres a slight vibration now i cant pinpoint, my mechanic thinks it has a bad bearing im gonna get it on a lift sometime this week. As far as the vacuum leak theory, i'm going to talk to someone first thing in the morning about a smoke detection machine since i've believed i've had a hidden leak somewhere a long time. My mechanic also wants me to flush my tranny before i leave, and i'd like to switch from mercon 3 to 5. Had a tranny shudder for 3 or 4 days shifting from 3rd to 4th that went away on its own after we did the oil filter adapter and also changed the coolant. I literally am stumped on the high load % and advanced ignition timing. On the highway i can see it go from 29-33. I thought the max it should go is 30. I'd like to say i feel a small surge while cruising on the highway, like its in the ignition system, but it is still there after doing plugs and wires. I wish someone lived near me on here, i'd try to bring my car down south to Dan R but i know hes always swamped with work, i might have to try to ask his opinion before i get more work done on this car.

PS I have also thought the car seemed louder on the highway now, but i dont have anyone to confirm it that drives with me lol.
 
Also, the load is down with the work i've done. Without a/c tonight, idling at a light, it was 40% and with a/c it was 47-48% at idle. Was much higher originally, i'm not happy my work is slowly bringing it down lmao.
 
Instead of just flushing the tranny I would have him drop the pan and replace the filter as well as draining the torque convertor, and then refilling with Mercon V. Drive it for a day or so so that all the discs and spool valves get activated with the new fluid, and you may have found some of your hesitation problem are gone.
 
If you've ever had the transmission replaced, you really don't have a need for Mercon V. Ford recommends it for original (OEM) transmissions. Once it's rebuilt or replaced, there's no need.
 
It's the original tranny and TC. Since i was in the area, i have it being smoketested first thing in the morning. From there, i will most likely drain tranny and torque converter in a shop, have them flush it and refill with mercon v. Or find someone who will drain my torque converter at their garage.
 
Gonna have a tranny flush soon. I still have load percentages at idle from 40% with no a/c to 50% with a/c on. Spark going as high as 38. I kinda gave up trying to track it down because i dont know where else to look. After the smoke test, only leak is coming from where the throttle body tube connects to the throttle, and i dont know how to get rid of it. I have 2 of those gaskets, both in decent shape, i dont understand why it would still have a bad leak.
 
Idle load should be in the 25-32ish percent range (this will vary from car to car)
Commanded spark at 40% load is 20-24 degree's PLUS several different "spark adders" and "multipliers" that get added into the equation.

your load is high, which likely means the car is idling too low/lugging, and the PCM is chunking a BUTTLOAD of spark at the engine in an attempt to raise the idle.

Something is WRONG, but it's not "spark".
 
Sorry, since i came back i've been pretty sick, so i'm a little slow. Only check engine light is unrelated, its for secondary air pump. I appreciate it. So it is much closer to normal now than before, i am taking calculations from an actron scanner. When i was cruising on the highway, the spark showed to jump from 29-33 while cruise controls on at 75. Now i've given up on finding it, but i keep coming back just incase anyone has had anything similar. Car just got back from a 3500 mile trip with no issues whatsoever on the upside.
 
Also, i fixed a small airleak where i removed the top air silencer and tried to cap it but it was not clampable, and i was told there is a leak in the throttle tube where it goes to the throttle body. I have 2 of those gaskets, both in good condition, so i dont understand why it would be leaking from there. I might have to get a 1/4" ratchet and tighten it as maybe just finger tight is not enough.
 
As far as the intake tube rubber gasket, I cement it to the intake tube and use a ratchet to snug it down tight.
 
If you dont have a CE light, i would leave it alone. Wait untill it gets worse enough to set off a CEL, then do some diag. It will save u some pain and agony!
 
Any code COULD be an issue whether you think it's unrelated. So as of now, you have a small intake vacuum leak AND a bad secondary air pump. You NEED to fix those issues before you "give up". Two problems may appear unrelated but you never know the how it all corresponds when the computer is expecting to see certain perimeters but cant because you have bad parts. (hence the codes!)
 
One of the hoses going to the secondary air pump are capped off, and i've honestly never looked at it much. Thats the only code i have, my plan is to inspect a junkyard 96 when they get one, and pull its air pump to swap.
 
J said:
Any code COULD be an issue whether you think it's unrelated.
Click to expand...

This guy is far to quick to dismiss actual good information and replace it with misconceptions or simply bad information.

I give up.

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