How to pick a dial-in

driller

driller

El Presidente
Staff member
This question has bothered me for a long time.

I may be one step closer to cracking the code(at least for me and my '93).

Using my highly developed deductive reasoning powers, I have analyzed my performance numbers from scores of track runs fine tuning a representative sample of ETs versus density altitude numbers.

I have developed the following formula:

Dial-in = 13.727 + ((0.00006*DA)-FF)

Where...

DA = Density Altitude(feet)
FF = 'Fudge Factor'{highly technical term}

The following table represents the value of "FF" and the corresponding hypothetical percentage of 'covering the spread'.

0.01 ~ 60%
0.02 ~ 72%
0.03 ~ 80%
0.06 ~ 86%
0.07 ~ 88%
0.11 ~ 92%
0.13 ~ 96%
0.16 ~ 99%

As you can see, for a scant 0.030 seconds margin, I can be assured 80% of my runs will be covered by my dial-in.

For example, with track conditions dictating 1800 feet density altitude...

Dial-in = 13.727 + ((0.00006*DA)-FF)
Dial-in = 13.727 + ((0.00006*2200)-0.03)
Dial-in = 13.727 + (0.132-0.030)
Dial-in = 13.727 + 0.102
Dial-in = 13.829

Rounding to the nearest hundredth of a second would give a dial-in of 13.83 and I would only 'break out' 20% of the time while maintaining a margin of only 0.030 seconds.
 
RE: How to pick a dial-in

JP...in case you havent figured it out yet...90% of all racers dont win by dial-in accuracy...they win by being consistent on the tree.

if you can cut a .520 or better EVERY SINGLE TIME, you will win almost all of your races.

consider this...

you cut a .518 light to your opponent's .566 light
you now have a .048 advantage over your opponent right away.
Now factor in your difference in ET at the 1000 foot light...the reason we check at the 1000 foot mark, is because this is where most racers begin to judge their stripe...in otherwords, they begin to judge their arrival at the line compared to their opponent's. If you are 2 car lengths ahead of the other car at the 1000 foot light, and he is only .2 seconds faster than you in ET, he aint gonna be 'there' at the stripe, so you begin to dive...

here's a scenario for ya, based on R/T vs. ET.

you- dial 13.50
opponent dial 12.70

both staged....you cut a .516 light
and your opponent cuts a .558 light

you're already ahead of him anyway based on your head start...but with a .042 avantage on him off the line, the formula dictates that you ADD that difference to his ET to determine how close he'll be to your car at the stripe.

say you're on a 13.51 pass
say he's on a 12.74 pass

you're already + 0.01(slower) pass
he's already on a 0.04 slower pass

you have a 0.03 advantage on him from your ET.
Now add in the .042 advantage on him from the tree.
add that advantage up, and you're .072 ahead of him...

imagine if you could dial THAT far off, and still win? granted, you're going slower than your dial-in...but seriously...lets say you dialed a 13.50 and you ran a 13.57...wouldnt you consider that WAY OFF? I would...but guess what? since you did your job on the tree, it didnt matter...you would have been ahead of the guy in the traps, taking the stripe. think about this...since he was that late on the tree, he could have run right on his dial-in, with a 000 at the end, and still lost, because you would have taken the stripe, based on your starting line advantage.

before worrying about dial ins...get the tree down...it is the SINGLE MOST important factor to be competitive in drag racing. I see it every week...people running right on their dial-in, but losing because they were late, or red lit....

your fomula is awesome though...keep it with you at all times...but knowing what to dial is one thing...but being late means you will never have the chance to prove it right. a 13.7500 on a 13.75 dial in WONT win a single round if you get beat on the tree by .04 or more...

it's a gun fight JP...no matter how good your aim, if you pull the trigger too late, you're dead.
 
RE: How to pick a dial-in

Craig, you're underestimating me. :+

Go to my photo albums and watch the videos... someone remarked to me a lot of the vids showed me so far ahead the opponent wasn't in the picture until way down the track. It was because of the tree. Most of the vids are simple heads-up races at a test and tune. Faster or slower, it doesn't matter, cause like you say, it's all about the tree.

I don't feel uncomfortable at the tree, but I could be better for sure. I consider myself having a good day keeping my RT under .090, and really "in the game" with RTs of 0.040 or less.

But even at that, I can't afford to be throwing darts at the dial-in and leaving a tenth or more on the table. I felt the need to apply some science to it, and while it may prove a little rough, it will only be better refined with more practice.
 
RE: How to pick a dial-in

Just to be "fair"....

"I" have cut "crap lights" and ran "dead on" and won.

But I do tend to agree with Craig.
There are two races in each bracket pass.

First race is "at the tree", if you win that race.. you stand a GOOD CHANCE {READ CHANCE} of winning the race.

But that is not to say that "if you dont cut a good light" you cant win.

I've cut .300/.800 lights and had my opponent "go red" just because they have grown to "fear the mark 8's reputation".

Tiffs opponents turn on the redlight FREQUENTLY.
 
RE: How to pick a dial-in

At a recent test and tune I utilized the above to calculate a quasi-dial-in. The car was running well at 13.7s-13.8s at 99-100 mph. I discovered I needed to step up the fudge factor to 0.06 seconds for a more accurate dial-in. Doing so I would've only 'broken out' 3 times in 13 runs with a margin of 0.023 seconds.

With an average RT of 0.088 seconds, my overall margin was 0.137 seconds. I would like to see the overall margin below 0.1 seconds. That will require more practice at the tree and further refinement of the dial-in calculator. ;)

Applying the latest data, the latest version of the formula becomes

Dial-in = 13.716 + ((0.00005*DA)-0.06)

Utilizing the 'updated' formula with the 0.06 seconds fudge factor, the dial-in number ranged from 13.71 to 13.73. A lone run of 13.728 would've resulted in a break-out.
 
RE: How to pick a dial-in

Dang Driller... you THINK too much! :p

When choosing a dial-in, I look at what my car is running that night... and write that number on the car. If I "think" about my dial-in... chances are, I lose. lol

I can't tell you how many times I've "thought" myself right out of the race. :+

DON'T THINK ; JUST RACE! hahaha
 
RE: How to pick a dial-in

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Heads up racing is a lot more fun and exciting... that is all.
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I disagree... that is all.
 
RE: How to pick a dial-in

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DON'T THINK ; JUST RACE! hahaha
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I can't do that! I am a compulsive analyst. That's the whole reasoning behind all this. I need to apply some discipline to my thinking at the track.

All I know is the car will run what it runs and it will do it rather consistently given the same input from the driver. As long as I am not forced to be out of sync, the consistency is there. The rest is just a mathematical solution of probability based on the most prevalent factor - density altitude. There is a dominant factor for live local conditions that doesn't take much thought process, just diligent analysis via a formula developed from historical data. That combined with a margin of error determined at the track due to actual track conditions determines the answer to the question with minimal thinking.
 
RE: How to pick a dial-in

JP, I DEFINATELY dont underestimate you. I haven't met someone as dedicated as you, in a very long time.

Tiff summed it up well...I went off on a tangent...

I never carried a formula with me to the track...just s fist-full of time slips from the last event. I use my time runs to guage where the car is, I compare them to the last time out(which will also help me determine if the car might be falling off, WARNING me of a potential problem)...but the bottom line is this(for me)...whatever the car HAS run at previous events is just bleacher racing topics...what it's running THAT day...that's where I dial.

I've been to 2-day events where you get 4 time runs on Saturday, and then 1st round elims, then you retire for the night, and come back the next day to race...the next day, the car may run totally different, or it may run the same.

Bottom line is this...Tiff is dead-on...you DONT need a .520 or better light to win....but it sure helps.

7/100ths of a second advantage at the starting line is close to 2/10ths on the big end.

keep it up, but dont over-think it. You need your mind to be focused on one thing at the track...the tree. let the car do the rest. Sure, taking yourself out with an OFF-dial in...but what you fouled on the window, can often be redeemed at the tree. it's called sand-bagging.

I've dialed a 15/100ths margin (13.35 dial in on a car that can run 13.20's) with faith that I can drill the tree, and back in to the opponent at the big end.

Oh, and as for "props"....most of the best dang racers in the country on the 1/4 mile...are those that race 1/8 mile on a regular basis...they're used to doing in 9 seconds, what we do in 13....they dont have time to look around, if you know what I mean.

Man I'd love to drive ythe Blue Flame. (didn't I come up with that name for ya?)

JP...just keep having fun, and doing what you're doing.
Remember, the other part we havent discussed is the "fear factor"...the day you start hammering the opponents week in and week out(Like our Lone Star friends), your competition will begin to fear you, and they will often hand you the win by taking a shot at the tree, or choking.
 
RE: How to pick a dial-in

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Oh, and as for "props"....most of the best dang racers in the country on the 1/4 mile...are those that race 1/8 mile on a regular basis...they're used to doing in 9 seconds, what we do in 13....they dont have time to look around, if you know what I mean.

Man I'd love to drive the Blue Flame. (didn't I come up with that name for ya?)

JP...just keep having fun, and doing what you're doing.Remember, the other part we havent discussed is the "fear factor"...the day you start hammering the opponents week in and week out(Like our Lone Star friends), your competition will begin to fear you, and they will often hand you the win by taking a shot at the tree, or choking.
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I actually miss running at an 1/8 mile track.

Yes Craig, I believe you did come up with the moniker 'Blue Flame' and it has stuck. For that I promise should you and I ever cross paths, you may borrow the keys to the Blue Flame. ;)(BTW, ask Jeremi of his impression as we swapped keys for a bit at the Michigan meet.)

Fear factor?! LOL! The track crew at Mason Dixon are just now recognizing the Lincoln and the name 'Driller'. I think it may be awhile before the competition begin to succumb to any 'fear factor'. :7
 
RE: How to pick a dial-in

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I think it may be awhile before the competition begin to succumb to any 'fear factor'. :7
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Just keep doing what you are doing and it wont be "long".

Before long the your car and reputation will win as many races you do!

It's great hitting the tree and getting a win light before you cross the 60 foot mark, which happens quite often these days.
 
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