Idle problem
- Thread starter fastford
- Start date
RE: Idle problem
Gen I's are from '93-'96 Gen II's are '97 and '98.
Bud Pytko
'97 LSC Silver Frost
'05 F250 SD CC PSD 4 X 4 AZ Beige
'92 F250 Banks TurboDiesel Bimini Blue (FOR SALE)
'94 Prowler 5th Wheel
http://myfilelocker.comcast.net/charlespytko/Lincoln/BudPytko97LSC.JPG
Gen I's are from '93-'96 Gen II's are '97 and '98.
Bud Pytko
'97 LSC Silver Frost
'05 F250 SD CC PSD 4 X 4 AZ Beige
'92 F250 Banks TurboDiesel Bimini Blue (FOR SALE)
'94 Prowler 5th Wheel
http://myfilelocker.comcast.net/charlespytko/Lincoln/BudPytko97LSC.JPG
RE: Idle problem
I did the installation of a new IACV on my 93 Mark. You need to replace the IACV and gasket at the same time
Start by disconnecting the battery ground cable. Disconnect the IAC valve electrical connector from the engine control sensor wiring. I used 12 inches on extensions to reach the two bolts that hold it on to the engine. A standard 8mm socket for the bolt by the firewall and an extended 8mm socket for the other one are used. These sockets and extensions need to be 1/4" drive. You run the extension along the firewall, standing on the passenger's side of the engine compartment, and have at it. The IAC valve, as well as a valve gasket should come off.
Ford notes that the IAC valve cannot be cleaned, and must be replaced. Do not use carburetor tune-up cleaner or any other type solvent or internal damage to the valve may result.
I tried to reinstall the two bolts without the IAC being attached. This should is easy, since you have a clear shot at both holes. Trying to screw these bolts in by hand turnout to be impossible. Trying to ratchet these bolts with the sockets was very difficult. So I decided to soak the bolts in "Liquid Wrench" and it helped. Also, I used a 8mm reversible ratcheting wrench to work the bolts back into the holes. It has a one hand reversing lever, 5 deg. arc to turn a fastener. 72 gear teeth for quick engagement, 12 deg. knuckle clearance. Sears sells them for around $15. I would tighten the bolts a couple of turns, back them off a little and then continue to tighten until they would go far enough in to match their depth locations when the IAC is connected. I really didn't want to strip the holes or break the bolts, so I only used hand pressure.
The process of trying to loosen the resistance took some time, but sure made is a lot easier when actually attaching the IAC.
To install, clean the IAC valve mating surfaces and use a new IAC valve gasket. Install the bolts, which I did by hand tightening them as far as I could, using the extensions. I used very small strips of duct tape to hold the bolts to the sockets as I fished for the holes in the IAC. I engineered it so the tape would slip off once the bolt was engaged in the hole and the socket pulled off. You can work the firewall side much easier than the other (since you can feel it), so I did firewall first and tighten that bolt to keep the IAC in place and square. Then I did the other bolt to tight, which is around 100 inch lb. Then an extra quarter turn. I then backed off the firewall bolt to judge whether the other bolt was really tight enough and then retighten the firewall one to spec.
An alternative method for installing the IACV is to put the bolts in the throttle body. Cut slots under the holes in the IACV. And then slip the IACV down unto the attach bolts and then tighten the bolts down to spec. I haven't tried this approach, but it should work. You'd need a Dremel tool or something similar with a cutoff wheel to cut the slots.
Reattach the electrical connector and reconnect the battery ground and crank it up.
Take your time, you can do it.
I did the installation of a new IACV on my 93 Mark. You need to replace the IACV and gasket at the same time
Start by disconnecting the battery ground cable. Disconnect the IAC valve electrical connector from the engine control sensor wiring. I used 12 inches on extensions to reach the two bolts that hold it on to the engine. A standard 8mm socket for the bolt by the firewall and an extended 8mm socket for the other one are used. These sockets and extensions need to be 1/4" drive. You run the extension along the firewall, standing on the passenger's side of the engine compartment, and have at it. The IAC valve, as well as a valve gasket should come off.
Ford notes that the IAC valve cannot be cleaned, and must be replaced. Do not use carburetor tune-up cleaner or any other type solvent or internal damage to the valve may result.
I tried to reinstall the two bolts without the IAC being attached. This should is easy, since you have a clear shot at both holes. Trying to screw these bolts in by hand turnout to be impossible. Trying to ratchet these bolts with the sockets was very difficult. So I decided to soak the bolts in "Liquid Wrench" and it helped. Also, I used a 8mm reversible ratcheting wrench to work the bolts back into the holes. It has a one hand reversing lever, 5 deg. arc to turn a fastener. 72 gear teeth for quick engagement, 12 deg. knuckle clearance. Sears sells them for around $15. I would tighten the bolts a couple of turns, back them off a little and then continue to tighten until they would go far enough in to match their depth locations when the IAC is connected. I really didn't want to strip the holes or break the bolts, so I only used hand pressure.
The process of trying to loosen the resistance took some time, but sure made is a lot easier when actually attaching the IAC.
To install, clean the IAC valve mating surfaces and use a new IAC valve gasket. Install the bolts, which I did by hand tightening them as far as I could, using the extensions. I used very small strips of duct tape to hold the bolts to the sockets as I fished for the holes in the IAC. I engineered it so the tape would slip off once the bolt was engaged in the hole and the socket pulled off. You can work the firewall side much easier than the other (since you can feel it), so I did firewall first and tighten that bolt to keep the IAC in place and square. Then I did the other bolt to tight, which is around 100 inch lb. Then an extra quarter turn. I then backed off the firewall bolt to judge whether the other bolt was really tight enough and then retighten the firewall one to spec.
An alternative method for installing the IACV is to put the bolts in the throttle body. Cut slots under the holes in the IACV. And then slip the IACV down unto the attach bolts and then tighten the bolts down to spec. I haven't tried this approach, but it should work. You'd need a Dremel tool or something similar with a cutoff wheel to cut the slots.
Reattach the electrical connector and reconnect the battery ground and crank it up.
Take your time, you can do it.
