Ignition problems need help A.S.A.P !!!

M

maxmk8

Registered
I need need help asap, help me out guys since the Mark is not drivable as is. The cars ignition does not operate properly; my dad took out the car to go shopping and came back right away because it would not turn off. When I turned the key, it felt really light moving through all the positions, but the car would not turn off. I had to pull the Ignition fuse in order to turn the car off.

I dissembled some of the steering column; I took out all the plastic shrouds and took out the ignition lock cylinder. I checked all the positions and they work just fine, it turns just as easy as it does when it was in the car. So I think whatever the lock cylinder plugs into is broken. I believe ford calls it the steering column lock cylinder housing... Did anyone ever replace it?? How much labor does the dealer charge to do this. I need to have his done asap...

Thanks for any advise.

here is a pic of the cylinder the part that it plugs into is broken...

http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/1191.jpg
 
RE: Ignition problems need help A.S.A.P !!!

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I need need help asap, help me out guys since the Mark is not drivable as is. The cars ignition does not operate properly; my dad took out the car to go shopping and came back right away because it would not turn off. When I turned the key, it felt really light moving through all the positions, but the car would not turn off. I had to pull the Ignition fuse in order to turn the car off.I dissembled some of the steering column; I took out all the plastic shrouds and took out the ignition lock cylinder. I checked all the positions and they work just fine, it turns just as easy as it does when it was in the car. So I think whatever the lock cylinder plugs into is broken. I believe ford calls it the steering column lock cylinder housing... Did anyone ever replace it?? How much labor does the dealer charge to do this. I need to have his done asap... Thanks for any advise.here is a pic of the cylinder the part that it plugs into is broken...http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/1191.jpg
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Mine is also bad - it's so loose it causes the alarm to go off.

I'll guess that Ford charges more than you want to spend, though you may have to.

Or you could find one in a junk yard.
 
RE: Ignition problems need help A.S.A.P !!!

Frankie,
I am not sure if the ignition switch or the plastic actuator (switch linkage??) took a dump. From my understanding the ignition switch is really easy to replace whereas the actuator should be replaced with the entire column unless I want to spend hours finding out what broke. But how can you tell what part exactly broke on the car?

Thanks for the reply. I have read your other great post in the other thread. I have a quick question for ya. How difficult is it to swap steering columns on a Mark VIII. I have the option of just purchasing a used column (from a 94 Mk8) and swapping it in for mine. I have heard that the little plastic lever is a real pain to replace so I was thinking about saving myself some work.
 
RE: Ignition problems need help A.S.A.P !!!

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Frankie,I am not sure if the ignition switch or the plastic actuator (switch linkage??) took a dump. From my understanding the ignition switch is really easy to replace whereas the actuator should be replaced with the entire column unless I want to spend hours finding out what broke. But how can you tell what part exactly broke on the car?Thanks for the reply. I have read your other great post in the other thread. I have a quick question for ya. How difficult is it to swap steering columns on a Mark VIII. I have the option of just purchasing a used column (from a 94 Mk8) and swapping it in for mine. I have heard that the little plastic lever is a real pain to replace so I was thinking about saving myself some work.
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The ignition switch is only $20, and takes about ten minutes to change out. You might do that first just to eliminate it as a possibility. However, the new key will not open the doors or the trunk, so you would still need to keep it.
 
RE: Ignition problems need help A.S.A.P !!!

Wayne you're talking about the lock cylinder, the ignition switch is moved by a plastic actuator that in turn is moved by the lock cylinder (two different parts). The lock cylinder in my car is fine and yes it can get changed very quickly.
 
RE: Ignition problems need help A.S.A.P !!!

If it was my own car and the price was right, I'd just replace the entire column. Any 1st Gen will do, and who cares what colour the donor column is? Switch plastic shrouds and steering wheel, if needed.

I tell you from experience, stripping the column and replacing the broken linkage is fussy, fussy, time comsuming work. If you've never done it before, you'll have tilt springs, roll pins, and detent balls bouncing everywhere.

Replacing the whole thing shouldn't take more than an hour. If you look at the 5th post up from the bottom of the other thread, Driller very kindly provided complete, step-by-step instructions for column re-and-re.

Two IMPORTANT things to keep in mind when dealing with air bag equipped columns:

1. Disconnect the battery and let the capacitors in the Airbag Control Module discharge for at least 10 minutes before disconnecting anything. Don't hook it back up until the job is 100% done.

2. At the points in this job when you'll have the ignition in any position other than lock and the bottom of the column disconnected from the steering shaft, DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT allow the steering wheel to spin freely. There's a rotating contact unit, often called a "clockspring", that connects the rotating steering wheel and its electrics to the stationary column. That will be DESTROYED if the wheel turns more than ~ 2 1/2 revolutions in one direction.

It's nothing that can't be fixed; it'll just add another ~ $150 to the cost of the repair.

If you've got another column, go for it!
 
RE: Ignition problems need help A.S.A.P !!!

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[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong][/div]The ignition switch is only $20, and takes about ten minutes to change out. You might do that first just to eliminate it as a possibility. However, the new key will not open the doors or the trunk, so you would still need to keep it.
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That's not entirely true.

Yes, the ignition cylinder comes out in minutes and is cheap. But you won't need two keys.

Lincolns (as a matter of fact, most modern Ford products) use 10 cut keys. The first 5 are for the ignition, and the 5 closest to the body are for locks. If you buy an ignition cylinder from a dealer, only half the key will be cut. The parts man should be able to shadow cut the back half from your existing keys.

...which leads me to another suggestion for Max:

Do you intend to use the cylinder and key that's in the donor column? If so, you'll need to have that key plus your existing key for the doors. It'll be a P.I.T.A!

Why not invest a few bucks in a new ignition cylinder and key and have them cut to your present key? You won't regret it.
 
RE: Ignition problems need help A.S.A.P !!!

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong][div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong][/div]The ignition switch is only $20, and takes about ten minutes to change out. You might do that first just to eliminate it as a possibility. However, the new key will not open the doors or the trunk, so you would still need to keep it.[/div]That's not entirely true.Yes, the ignition cylinder comes out in minutes and is cheap. But you won't need two keys. Lincolns (as a matter of fact, most modern Ford products) use 10 cut keys. The first 5 are for the ignition, and the 5 closest to the body are for locks. If you buy an ignition cylinder from a dealer, only half the key will be cut. The parts man should be able to shadow cut the back half from your existing keys....which leads me to another suggestion for Max:Do you intend to use the cylinder and key that's in the donor column? If so, you'll need to have that key plus your existing key for the doors. It'll be a P.I.T.A!Why not invest a few bucks in a new ignition cylinder and key and have them cut to your present key? You won't regret it.
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Frankie, can't I reuse my old cylinder in my new(donor) steering column, because that was my original plan.

Eric- Looks like I already have a column picked out, i will shoot you a PM if my deal falls through.
 
RE: Ignition problems need help A.S.A.P !!!

Max, if you're convinced the cylinder is fine, and I don't see why it wouldn't be, there's no reason not to use yours in the donor column.

Remember, though... the steel lock pin can ONLY be pushed up into the housing with the key in the Run position.

High mile 1st Gen cylinders have a bad habit of dropping tumblers and becoming difficult to turn or jamming completely. If that happens, the only way to get them out is by drilling their guts out with hardened bits. That's a nightmare.

I'm just thinking worst case scenario...if you're happy, I'm happy.

On the other hand, if you have any doubts at all, it's better safe than sorry.
 
RE: Ignition problems need help A.S.A.P !!!

Thanks for all the great help. I think I am now ready to tackle this problem. I ordered a steering column from a low milage 94, it should be here sometime next week. I will post some pics then, and perhaps a write-up since this seems to be a fairly common problem.
 
Just wanted to check and see if anyone knows if I do order this lock and cylinder from 5star it will only be half cut? Also if I want to match the key to the doors I will need to get the other half of the key out of the ignition :p any tips on that ? before or after removal ?
 
Misanthropy said:
Just wanted to check and see if anyone knows if I do order this lock and cylinder from 5star it will only be half cut? Also if I want to match the key to the doors I will need to get the other half of the key out of the ignition :p any tips on that ? before or after removal ?
Click to expand...

When I replaced one, the new key was 'half-cut' and a trip to the local dealer had the new key recut with the other half of the old key as a pattern.

Before or after doesn't matter.

As a matter of trivia, they do not use a grinding wheel to cut the keys like the old days. The new key was cut with a 'nibbler' type hand tool.
 
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