J-mod question

7

7 sek mark

Registered
i have a 93 trans that i am puting in my car but while it is out im going to do the j-mod to it. I pulled the pan off and the 1-2 shift accumulator out and the first spring (purple one) i get to is broke in half. The bore is scared a little but the scars are not very deep, should i get a hone and try to clean the bore up or just leave it? The j-mod for the 300 hp level says to leave the bottom spring out. So do i still need to get the new style piston or can i stay with the old one with no spring? In the j-mod parts list it gives me part numbers for almost everything in the valve body are these stock P/N's or are they parts that need to be replaced? thanks guys for the help
 
RE: J-mod question

I would attempt to hone it out or use some emery cloth to polish the bore. Wipe clean when done. Definitely go with the upgraded piston. The bottom spring is optional. Some have it, some do not. Your 1-2 shifts will be more 'abrupt' without the spring. Even more abrupt than the broken spring. There is 1-2 accumulator info here on the tech pages which include part numbers.
 
RE: J-mod question

ya i have the print out from the tccoa tech page with all the part numbers and drill sizes. I want this thing to shift as hard as possable so the spring is gone i also took the 2-3 spring out. will the 400-500hp hole sizes make it shift harder then the 300 hp setting will?
 
RE: J-mod question

I haven't done a "J-mod", but I have a Baumann shift kit which is very, very similar and I remember bigger hole sizes equating to harsher shifts. Regardless I went with the max settings and have no regrets. I have found the harshness of the shifts directly proportional to the amount of throttle applied.
 
RE: J-mod question

ok cool i got the drills tonight for the 300-450 hp level. I will probley get the parts i need from ford next week i need the new 1-2 piston, new wireing harrness (dad rolled the trans over and broke the plug) and a pan gasket (the new trans did not have one on it).
 
RE: J-mod question

Make sure you get a Motorcraft gasket(reinforced rubber) rather than the generic cork gasket.
 
RE: J-mod question

yes i will deff get the rubber gasket. I did a trans service at school with a cork gasket and it was hard as a rock and a pain in the butt to get off. Hey driller what do you have done to your mark for it to run 13's?
 
RE: J-mod question

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
... Hey driller what do you have done to your mark for it to run 13's?
[/div]

Short version...

Pro-M 85mm MAF
Electric Water Pump
Transmission Cooler
1-2 & 2-3 Accumulator upgrades
Shift Kit
160 degree thermostat
Cold Air Intake
Cam Shim
4.10 gears w/ Traction Lock
DynoTech Engineering Metal Matrix Composite Aluminum Driveshaft
255LPH Fuel Pump
Cat-Back 2-1/2" Single-X Dual Exhaust
DynoMax UltraFlow Mufflers
26x9.50-16 Hoosier Quick Time Pro D.O.T. Drag Tires
3500 rpm stall converter
UnderDrive Crank Pulley
SCT Chip & DynoTune

Click the links in the sig.
 
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