Jmod, HP levels and separator plate ?

D

D Day

Registered
I want to do the jmod on my 98 and was wondering if I could use a separator plate from a first gen instead of drilling the 98 plate?? If not, can I use one off another ford ie crown vic or 97 tbird?? If so, what years?

I want to have firm shifts not jerking shifts. What is the best way to get there? Reading the tech article BlackIce istalled the lower 1-2 spring because the shift was too hard without it (I don't think it stated what level he went for). I plan on doing more n/a mods and was thinking of doing the 300-450 level with all springs. What do you guys think? or <300 with all springs?

Currently my only drivetrain mod is 4.10's, but I will do more.
Thanks guys
 
Both my 96ers I drilled the stock plate out and put the spring in for the 450 range. Later the Silver car got upgraded and the tranny did as well to get the better mechanicals as well. At that time the line presures were upped via the computer. My Black M has another 60,000 on it and is running fine, I'd advise going for the plate drill out and use the springs.
 
So you think think the 300-450 range + all the springs will achieve what I desire? Anyone know if the separator plate is interchangable with other Fords (year).
 
For the plates... I know the early models '93-95? are different from the later models ?'96-'98. I think the changeover was '95/'96 but I may be wrong, it could be later.

Regardless, go for the max setting with the lower 1-2 spring and the shifts should be quick but firmness of the shifts should increase proportionately with application of the throttle.

Anything less - you're wasting your time and money and you should just buy a chip with increased shift pressure and hope they get it right.
 
You have a 98 so you don't "need" to do the JMod....get a chip, they WILL get it right, plus when they change the "lock-up" schedule it will be a completely different car. You'll love it!
 
I have a J-Mod and a chip. I have never been happier. The BIGGEST plus was the shift schedule change -as J noted. Just that alone made the chip worth it.
 
D Day said:
JP, are u saying I should ditch the jmod and go only with a chip? Or are u saying do the chip and jmod?
Click to expand...

The chip and J-mod would be the best IF the J-mod was maxed out AND you used the lower 1-2 spring and 2-3 spring.

If you don't go max HP on the J-mod, IMHO it is not worth doing. Same with the Baumann shift kit.

As pointed out, the chip can change shift schedules and lockup settings complementing the J-mod or shift kit. This is a bonus on top of the increased line pressure. Be warned, just increasing the line pressure via a chip can be bad if it is across the board and excessive.
 
Screw the shift schedule change with a chip, the VERY BEST part of my chip was the modification of the factory lock-up schedule. If my M8 was completely stock, and I know what I know now, I'd have got the chip as my VERY first mod, regardless of how many times I had to re-tune it with each upgrade.

You have a 98...the valve body is already updated. A JMod is going to improve the shifts just as any other shift kit will, personally I think you should get a SCT(1 or 4 bank) Chip and than do the JMod if you're not happy.

Like he said guys....he doesn't want a slamming shift....just firm/faster. JMod is probably going to be too extreme and/or a waste of time(without factoring the extended trans life).
 
I've got the J mod and no chip on my red Mark. It has all the springs and it's at the max HP setting.

I love it . The shifts are firm in normal driving and just get better with more throttle as JP mentioned.
 
The increased line pressure with a chip definitely helps, feels like a completely different transmission with that and changed lock up schedule.
 
D Day said:
I want to have firm shifts not jerking shifts. What is the best way to get there?


Currently my only drivetrain mod is 4.10's, but I will do more.
Thanks guys
Click to expand...

Firm shifts...but NOT jerky.

Since you already have the gears....a chip is all you'll need, doing the JMod will be too much with the 410's. Don't waste the time doing the JMod until AFTER you've tested the chip out.
 
Its the frequency AND the amount of "power" being put to the ground because of the gear change. I guess you I can best explain it as "the ease of getting the car going because of the gears, in turn making the shifts firmer"? I don't know....maybe I'm over thinking it. The gears changed the way my car feels when it shifts, and the Chip also changed that feeling.

You're right though....its not that it will have anything to do with the transmission or the shifts, it will have to do with how the shifts "feels" to him.
 
I emailed Lonnie to see what he thinks. I found a 98 crown vic so I took the separator plate from it just in case it could be used on the mark. Hopefully Lonnie will get to me by tomorrow. I'll let you guys know what he tells me about the jmod and chip. Thanks for all the input! You guys are great!
 
I talked to Lonnie and he said I should do both. He said the chip is the computer side of the jmod and the drilling is the mechanical part. He also confirmed that I could use the 98 plate from a crown vic. So, I am going to do both and if the plate is too much I put the stock one back in like J said. Thanks for all your help guys!
 
No problem, let us know how it goes! We always like to see an ending to these threads, for future use.
 
All done!

All done!

I finished the Jmod tonight and I love it! Everything went smooth except for the mess I made and cleaning afterwards :(

I followed all the procedures for filling the transmission so I hope it doesn't get damaged. I'm sure it’s fine, I’m just nervous because of my first experience changing the transmission oil and filter on my first Gen. Long story short, it was my first time doing it and I only put 6 quarts of Mercon V in. I had no Idea that the torque converter needed to be drained (I had 6 quarts left over but don’t remember what I did with them). I assume it had Mercon III and I read somewhere that the mixing III and V cause transmission failure? Don't know if that’s true, do you know? Of course, I find this out after my transmission dies on me. So, I'm just a little nervous considering this is my second transmission oil and filter change.

I drained everything this time and man, was that oil dirty! Even though Lonnie said I could use the 98 Crown Vic separator plate, I ended up using the stock Mark VIII one. When I held the two plates up together one would have a hole where the other didn’t. I didn’t seem like a big deal but I figured it’ is better the drill mine than to redo this again. So, I set the Crown Vic one aside and put mine in. When I put the filter in, it was barely in there. The filter would start to sag and I thought that it might fall of since I have a deeper pan now. After further examination I found that the original ring that keeps the filter snug came off the filter and was stuck in the hole. I took it out and the filter went in just fine afterwards. J told me to use a 94-99 f-150 4X4 filter because that filter design had an extension. I ordered one off of a 99 f-150 4x4 but it had that same part # as the sock one. I ended up buying the regular one, besides I don't think I'll be drifting like J  Thanks for you help on that one J. The one I got was a puralator now that I think about it, was I supposed to get a MotorCraft one? Anyways I put every thing back and took it for a drive.

I started off slow and wasn't impressed at all. I could hardly feel a difference while I was driving. I used to get a jerk as the transmission downshifted from 2-1, but that is now gone so I was glad about that, but I expected more seat of the pants power. I decided to really test it on the way home and that’s when I felt it. I didn't even expect it. I floored it and as that car shifts into second it hear that rear tires spin for traction (no chirping noise though). As soon as it shifted into second I see a yellow light come onto my dash. I think to myself oh plz no CE light!!! When I look, it's the traction control light telling me that TC was engaged. Yeah :) !!! That means that that the TC kicked in since my rears tires broke loose. I turned the TC off and was playing with that 1-2 shift all the way home.

This is EXACTLY what I wanted guys! A nice normal shift in the SoCal traffic and crisp solid shifts at WOT. I can only imagine what it feels like with the spring out. I am completely satisfied with this mod. My 2nd Gen FINALLY feels stronger than my 1st Gen Mark (ported intake and UD crank pulley). Now I just have to wait a few weeks and I will be ordering that chip from Lonnie at BOC.

Once again thanks to everyone who gave me input! By posting your set up you all really helped me in deciding what exactly I wanted to achieve from this mod.
I wanted to take photos during the install but once I get in the zone I'm an animal! Ah, who am I kidding, I was floppin’ around in that oily mess like a fish. I didn't want to get my dads camera dirty.
BMDeepPan012.jpg

BMDeepPan007.jpg

BMDeepPan025.jpg

BMDeepPan020.jpg

Threw in a pic of my trans cooler. I think its the biggest B&M makes. U like the location JP. I was a PITA to get it in there since it is so thick.
BMDeepPan015.jpg
 
Nice work. :)

I'm concerned about the filter though. This is the part number for the filter I used in my deep dish pan...

F6AZ-7A098-A

I don't have pics but it was definitely different from the stock filter.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top