K-member Pro's and Con's

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phreaknes

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I'm about 2 months off of doing a cobra motor swap in my 97 LSC and I was wondering if I should drop the k-member with motor and tranny or take just the motor from the top. I've got a floor lift much like stpro's http://hometown.aol.com/stpro/images/mvc-438x.jpg available to me.

I'm replacing the motor installing Kooks mid lengths and but keeping the autotrans and all the drive line stuff back (for now) I can get a engine hoist NP but I was just wondering what it entails removing the motor, trans, and exhaust. If my transmission guy come through for me (doubt it) I might do the tranny also. So what kinda pain am I looking at?
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

do it from the bottem because i have attempted it from the top and done it from the bottem. it is alot easer that way. there is a lot of stuff that is hard to get to from the top. basicly wether you are doing it on a lift or not the bottem is just the best way. remove the exhaust, gas tank, drive shaft and then remove the motor and trans in one shot. i have done it this way in both my gen1's and gen2's. although i think my brother pulled my motor on my silver car one week end when i was out of town from the top. he did ask me afterwards what was easier and told him.
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

My friends give me crap all the time because i tell them it's easier from the bottom and they refuse to try it on their thunderbirds. I tell them, after they have the blower, radiator, cowl, and exhaust manifolds off, that i could have had that motor out of there by now, but they just don't listen.
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

Hey man thanks for the heads up about the exhaust and gas tank. Is their maybe a cliff notes / detailed instructions on how to remove from the bottom? I've installed and removed motors from the top several times (grant it, they were a 69 chevelle and a 78 930) any special tools? I would think it would be harder to take it from the bottom because of all the brake lines, air bag suspension crap, etc. At least have any "you will strip this bolt / don't reuse this bolt" type stuff?
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

Remove the upper control arm from the spindle, remove the brake caliper and hang it up in the wheel well (no need to mess with the brake line), let the air out of the strut (pop out the solenoid almost all the way, then stick it back in carefully, don't cut the o ring), unbolt the strut either from the bottom (1 bolt but it can be a pain) or the top (3 bolts and you have to remove the solenoid and keep it from getting damaged), unhook the wires on the ABS sensors (don't try to get them off the spindle unless you want to buy new ones, the connector for the wire is behind the plastic cover in the wheel well), unhook the electrical connections (i believe it's just one plug for the whole engine harness, plus ground wires), unhook heater core and radiator hoses, unhook the fuel lines, remove the driveshaft (which requires lowering the gas tank slightly), unhook the air intake tube, the tranny cooler lines, and remove the 8 bolts holding the k-member up, and lower carefully. I probably forgot something but i think i touched on just about all of it.

edit: you also need to unhook the steering joint. When the steering joint is unhooked restrain the steering wheel from turning somehow, unless you want to buy a new clockspring assembly. And don't forget the exhaust, that has to come down too.
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

Any hints on keeping the K member aligned when taking in and out of the car. Its got to shift and move after being takin out. I'm putting in a slightly heavier motor are their any aftermarket k-members available for a 1997 LSC?

The exhaust can be disconnected after the cat or at the head?

Any special weird tools needed? Estimated time for removal? Can i just lock the steering wheel (cant he steering wheel lock now that I think of it?)

Thanks for all your help so. I think these instructions will also help someone else trying to do this. I'm also going to document the hell out of this swap.
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

I don't think the steering wheel locks. (unless i broke the lock on my '97 somehow when i had it apart).

The exhaust disconnects from the manifold. On one side the flange is after the cat, on the other side it's before the cat. Spray both sides liberally with pb blaster or wd40 and let them sit before attempting to disconnect them. I actually just used a sawzall on the passenger side, since i was putting headers in anyway.

The only special tools that i can think of, are the little plastic thingies you need to get the fuel lines off the fuel rail, and the special inverted-torx socket for the k-member bolts.

Any aftermarket k-member that you will find will most likely be weaker than the stock k-member. I wouldn't worry about putting a heavier motor on it. I had my k-member out for my headers this winter, i don't think the alignment changed when i put it back in. The car still goes straight and everthing. Although i do plan on getting an alignment this week.
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

Ok I just went out to my car to see if the wheel lock but I may be in the same place you are, where it may not lock after I took it apart last year. I'll remeber to do that (putting it on the notes for the erase board right now) my buddy who does colision repairs (who thinks it dumb to drop the cradle) will be helping me and he's always complaing about not getting a good aliginment because the k member is off. I think since I'm putting the same one back in Ill be ok. I'll just mark the hell out of it.

Anyone know where to get some stronger rear axels I've got the DS and New mustang hubs but I want to get new axles because I hope to make about 500HP at the rear wheels.

I've got the little plastic thing for the fuel rail when I got the regulator and pump.


BTW coming soon
http://webpages.charter.net/jrollen/03 motor.jpg
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

nice motor :). I've heard that raxles makes beefy axles for our cars.
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

You are correct sir. But after looking at it I think I can tap the fuel rail put a regulator in and dump it off into the return
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

i have done the swap of a 03 in a 98 all i did was use the old 98 rails shorting the rail mounting tabs and welding them on sideways. that will we a easy ways of doing it.
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

You've swaped an 03 cobra Into a gen 2. You and I my freind have ALOT to talk about. right now I'm doing alot of traveling with work and buying a new house. after the travel is done I'm going to take some time off and do the swap. I've got alot of the major parts ready or near ready (motor, trans, headers, fuel pumps etc.) but the only thing that worries me is the electrical. something tells me that its going to be the bigest monster i've ever faced (when it comes to cars) any insights on the wiring of the car? how long did it take you to do the swap. any and all advice will be taken.
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

After having my motor out several times while I was doing the headers I built that engine lift. It cut the removal time down under two hours and install is about an hour and a half longer due two the supercharger air ducting and aftercooler. When the MMX Drive shaft shows up I am removing the engine to add a few items I will photo the process step by step.
Keith
93 BLACK
93 MAROON
Only use the brakes to stop and get gas.
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

You will be my hero. all my 03 cobra (3), turbo (13) and vet(.5) friends are Very interested in this build I've just got to get my house in order then I'm runnin with the devil!
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

Beatiful... that is my plan if i keep my 98.

What are you going to do with the alternator?
That will not clear our K Member right?

Let me know, i presume we need the following

1. Different exhaust manifolds/headers?
2. Relocate Alternator
3. Larger fuel lines? I have single walbro 255 in tank pump but i doubt it will keep up with this monster?

Let me know about anything else if you dont mind so i can start planning.
 
RE: K-member Pro's and Con's

i went through the entire list the other day on the phone withe some one. i am not shure who it is but i can tell you this i have done some worst swaps before. in a 98 the swap should not be that hard at all. also i sell raxle shafts but i also have a line on ones made from 300m with 28 or 31 spline in board joints.
 
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