K Member removal

B

beerdog

Registered
Loosk like I will be removing the K member on my 98 to fix a few things. I done this before on a 2000 Mustang but not a Mark. I would like some tips from some of you who have done it before. How high do I need to get the car? What comes off with it?

I did a search but could not find anything.
 
Of the top of my head, this is what I can remember doing.
Get an engine support.
Remove the alternator. Use the alternator bolts, and some chain to support the engine.
Remove the dipstick (if you are taking the oil pan off).
Disconnect the air intake hose.
Unbolt the calipers and hang them.
Seperate the UCAs from the spindles.
Remove then lower strut bolts.
Disconnect the rack joint.
Remove the motor mount to k member bolts.
Remove the 8 bolts for the k member and lower in on a jack (carefully). You'll need a "E18" socket.
I didn't disconnect my p/s hoses, just the clamps that holdthem to the car, to give some slack, I think I recall you saying you were replacing your's.
I think I maye have had to disconnect ABS and ride height sensors, but I really don't remember.
I think I have a few pics, but I can't access photobucket here at work.
Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
I would also inspect the oil pan for any really rusty spots, then clean and paint it. If needed replace it while the subframe is out! Might want to change the oil filter adapter gasket while you are under there too. I also rebuilt my starter when the subframe was out.
 
I am planning on changing the oil pan gasket, oil filter adaptor gasket, any sensors that are easier to get to. Possibly power steering pump. Was going to change the rack but I think it is OK. upper 02 sensors. Possibly install some cobra exhast manifolds. I was thinking the starter also. I rememebr changing sharon's starter and it sucked. possibly a new sway bar while i am down there. motor mounts too.


At this pint I might as well just take the engine out......and who would remove it without rebuilding it. That would be foolish!
 
Last edited:
I don't think the Cobra Manifolds are going to work around everything. I am not positive on that maybe we can get another to chime in. If the rack is bad you can get rebuilt ones from either NAPA or Advance for $175 exchange includes the inner tie rod, or just the boot kits for $18.00. The ones at Advance are fro Cardone and I know that they have good quality.

You may want to get one in and if yours is bad you will have it on hand for when you drop the sub frame, same for the hoses. You can always take them back (keep the box in new condition. Just a thought.
 
frankjc said:
Of the top of my head, this is what I can remember doing.
Get an engine support.
Remove the alternator. Use the alternator bolts, and some chain to support the engine.
Remove the dipstick (if you are taking the oil pan off).
Disconnect the air intake hose.
Unbolt the calipers and hang them.
Seperate the UCAs from the spindles.
Remove then lower strut bolts.
Disconnect the rack joint.
Remove the motor mount to k member bolts.
Remove the 8 bolts for the k member and lower in on a jack (carefully). You'll need a "E18" socket.
I didn't disconnect my p/s hoses, just the clamps that holdthem to the car, to give some slack, I think I recall you saying you were replacing your's.
I think I maye have had to disconnect ABS and ride height sensors, but I really don't remember.
I think I have a few pics, but I can't access photobucket here at work.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

I used the bolts sticking out of each head to support the engine. Didn't touch the alternator.

Didn't touch the intake.

Instead of removing the lower shock bolt (which is a real PITA), I removed the shock covers in the engine compartment and removed the three nuts that hold each shock to the body.
 
The '03-'04 Cobra exhaust manifolds fit fine on my '96 with Jeremi's help on the steering shaft mod using a Flaming River joint. The cats were deleted as was the EGR.

Mind you, I didn't personally install them, but I was told it wasn't as bad as it was originally feared. Of course they had to weld new downpipes to the existing dual exhaust.
 
Last edited:
DLF said:
I used the bolts sticking out of each head to support the engine. Didn't touch the alternator.

Didn't touch the intake.

Instead of removing the lower shock bolt (which is a real PITA), I removed the shock covers in the engine compartment and removed the three nuts that hold each shock to the body.
Click to expand...
That would work too. My front struts are pretty new, the bolts come out easy. If your's are old, you might have better luck with DLF's method.
enginesupport002.jpg

enginesupport003.jpg
 
Circled in red is one of the bolts I used to support the engine. There's another just like it on the other head. No coil pack in the way on my '98.
 

Attachments

  • enginesupport003.jpg
    enginesupport003.jpg
    76.5 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
beerdog said:
I used the alternator methodon the stang. What about those brackets mentioned in the ford manual?
Click to expand...

I've replaced my mounts by merely supporting the engine on a 2nd jack...didn't need to lift from the top. I'm not sure why more people don't do it this way...
 
logres said:
True...but my point was that the engine can be supported from the top OR the bottom.
Click to expand...

It can be done either way, depending what you are working on. I'd feel safer with the engine support, plus you would have more room to roll around on a creeper.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top