mark rear end?

7

7 sek mark

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how much power can the stock mark rear end take before i have to start breaking parts? i want to put a set of sticky tires on my car but i dont want to break cv shafts. are yal blown guys still running stock mark shafts?
 
thats what i thought but i would hate be break a cv with me 60+ miles from home and only a geo to pull me back. or ever worse not be able to get to work untill i can get parts to fix it.
 
thats the thing i want to fix it before it breaks so it wont break. most of the time its cheaper to fix it before it breaks then it is after.
 
I am now replacing some bushings and bearings which have 82,000 miles on them with the last 4,000 with my new setup. It has not been to the track every week but it has had some healthy work outs with 535 RWHP.
 
I replaced my half shafts with brand new larger shaft diameter SC T-Bird units prior to installing the blower. I wanted to get them with the heavy duty knuckles, but they were discontinued or not available at the time from a company named RAXLES - located in Florida. I posted a link to their web site and a picture of the shafts below. They are very nice quality shafts, and have been great for me so far.

If they ever break, I will have Aric with Injected Engineering custom make me a set that will handle either 600 or 900 RWHP, similar to the ones he installs on the Cobra's. :) See the link below:

http://www.injectedengineering.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=302_234_130

http://www.raxles.com/


markmodsraxles002.jpg
 
thats nice to know that i wont have to worry about my axles any time soon. if i do break one raxles is about a 2 hr drive from me so maybe i could pay them a visit.
 
Mike; your shafts won't break nor will mine. The failure point is in the joints. That likely hood is remote with our automatic cars. The problem with larger joints is a physical limitations problem as I understand it. I also picked up a brand new pair of axles as a cheap insurance policy on the joints etc.
 
Charlie, I agree, that chances are remote that I will snap a half shaft, but... I am going to focus on my 60' times when the new motor goes in, and with that said, I have plan B already in place. :) I have heard the place where they snap is where the shaft, outer knuckle, and hub meet - due to the hub diameter limitations. It is more a "material used", not size, statement with these big power Cobra shafts that Aric sells.

Just as long as I stay away from going with a trans brake and continue to foot brake it off the line, and keep the wheel hop under control I should be good. Regardless, whatever slicks I go with, the shafts I have should handle the 550 - 600 rwhp I hope to put down with race gas and all the new stuff.
 
Serge,

If Roadboss with his setup and Eric with "Pullied" have had no issues with 400+ HP and at least as much torque to the wheels through stock halfshafts, then I'd say there's no need to worry. I can only see it would be an issue on a car that sees very heavy track time. If anything, look into the rear cover brace for the differential, and perhaps the rear pinion brace as well. Both can be had from supercoupeperformance.com and elsewhere.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
if it aint broke don't fix it
Click to expand...

This reminds me of how Bill of Supercoupeperformance.com refers to many people's attitude about their cars as "dumb-active" as opposed to pro-active.

Focusing one's attention on potential weak spots in a car's drivetrain prior to implementing power-adding modifications is a great example of being PROactive.

Ignoring them until something breaks is a great example of being DUMBactive.

:rolleyes:
 
thats the way i see it i will always build the car first then the motor then maybe the paint job. if you put a 1000 hp motor in a stock car and take it to the track and break it it makes you look like you dont know what your doing. like i always say its better to have it and not need it then to need it and not have it. or if its worth building its worth over building. i always build stuff for those just in case moments. it might be heavy and ugly but it will hold whatever you can put to it.
 
Wheel-hop is the biggest concern to driveline shock. The second biggest reason for snapped halfshafts is big shots of nitrous off the line.
 
100 shot,manual tranny swap and you'll need a help of a tow truck to get back home from a track :D.Manual trannys and torque are killers for our IRS suspension . My brother is pushing close to 500 rwhp and has around 150 passes at the track with his 98LSC on bone stock IRS ,no problems so far .If you want to see some axle breakage you need to got to Supercoupe Shootout.
 
Manual transmission supercoupes had two different sized halfshafts in the rear end. One side (I forget which side) is slightly thicker. If you can find two of those, that's the only somewhat-available upgrade to the stock halfshafts that I am aware of, if Raxles has discontinued theirs.

Honestly though, on an auto trans car, you're not likely to hit them hard enough to do any damage, even with a big converter. The hit from a big converter is nothing like the hit from a manual trans.

I've seen one halfshaft break... it was on my friends manual trans supercoupe, with slicks, dropping the clutch at something like 5000 RPM. And it broke the shaft off at the splines where it enters the diff. No way to make that significantly stronger without going to an entirely new differential, higher spline count, etc.
 
One more thing... the one "no brainer" upgrade to the IRS is to replace the stock diff bushings with something harder. Poly-whatever, solid steel, whatever, just something to keep it from moving around as much. When that thing starts to twist around is when you're going to have problems.

Oh, and don't really use steel.
 
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