Module VIII pics?
- Thread starter Fro99
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BlackIceLSC
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RE: Module VIII pics?
JP, isnt it funny how everyone totes the "load levelling" feature of the air ride at me(a coil convertee), yet no one ever mentions anything about "torque levelling"?
However, with the differential SOLID mounted to the chassis, and the IRS back there, I would be curious to see how many lbs of force each corner puts down independently at launch.
i have yet to see a Mark VIII lift one rear corner at launch. They all seem to just squat and go. The ultimate benefit would be if anyone builds a set of drag shock-lined front sealed units. I know one member who is working on Koni inserts for the front, but with non-replaceable front springs because they are bladders, adjusting the front spring rate for weight transfer is impossible with the stock air ride.
Oh yea, I keep forgetting. The Mark VIII was NOT built for drag racing!!!
JP, isnt it funny how everyone totes the "load levelling" feature of the air ride at me(a coil convertee), yet no one ever mentions anything about "torque levelling"?
However, with the differential SOLID mounted to the chassis, and the IRS back there, I would be curious to see how many lbs of force each corner puts down independently at launch.
i have yet to see a Mark VIII lift one rear corner at launch. They all seem to just squat and go. The ultimate benefit would be if anyone builds a set of drag shock-lined front sealed units. I know one member who is working on Koni inserts for the front, but with non-replaceable front springs because they are bladders, adjusting the front spring rate for weight transfer is impossible with the stock air ride.
Oh yea, I keep forgetting. The Mark VIII was NOT built for drag racing!!!
RE: Module VIII pics?
The Kale mod would be best for side to side adjustments.
As for precision, you could use a tape measure as you adjust them. I think you'd have to bounce the car a bit to get it to "equalize".
For real precision, you could put string pots at each wheel that could measure the heights as you drive. Probably too expensive considering the signal conditioners and readout device.
Maybe someone makes a cheap optical device that could be used to measure the wheel heights also?.
The Kale mod would be best for side to side adjustments.
As for precision, you could use a tape measure as you adjust them. I think you'd have to bounce the car a bit to get it to "equalize".
For real precision, you could put string pots at each wheel that could measure the heights as you drive. Probably too expensive considering the signal conditioners and readout device.
Maybe someone makes a cheap optical device that could be used to measure the wheel heights also?.