motor oil

46callaway

46callaway

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Which motor oil are you using in your Mark VIII? Right now in the 98 LSC I have Mobil 1 Racing 0w-30 which is no longer available. It's just like the regular Mobil 1 0w-30 but super doped up on additives for racing and extended use intervals. This oil is not recommended for those cars which burn oil because it's bad for the cats due to the super high dose of anti wear additives but the engine loves it. It's the same oil the Corvette Racing team uses in their C6-R's and the CTS-V-R's. In the 96 Mark VIII I have regular Mobil 1 5w-30.
 
M1 5w-30 Ran Amsoil 0-30 for awhile till I got smart and paid less for the M-1. Ran the M-1 before the Aimsoil too.
 
I would not waste my money on anything but mobil 1... I ran 5w30 for a long time in the 96 and the 98. I ran it for nearly 90k miles in the Crown Vic now... No engine problems. I would not go with 0w oil... it is a bit thin. Just change the M1 and filter every 5k or change the filter every 5k and the M1 every 10. Engine will probably outlast you. Lets face it, the engines are very reliable in these cars, if you don't abuse them they will outlast the rest of the car.

FYI Crovette recomends 5w30, so does the Mark. Oh and every single one of my Ford engines (2 DOHCs and 2 SOHCs that I have owned) ALWAYS burn oil. About 1 quart every 5k miles.
 
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360,000 miles on 10w30 Mobil 1 when we took the engine out it still has the crosshatch marks in the cylinder walls, engine was removed due to a secondary timing chain tensioner issue. The tensioner had chunked it's nylon chain guide.
 
Max, I thought I explained to you before that the 0w is only for when the car sits for a long time and is started, it's thinner than 5w to get flowing quicker at cold start temp. At normal engine operating temp. it's the same thickness as any other 30 weight oil.
 
Serge there is a reason for factory spec... I wouldn't put 0w in an older engine.. the seals are older, tolerances are less tight etc. I am sure you had decent luck with it. But I just don't see the point, just use 5w30.
 
If the car doesn't pump the 0W oil through it (ie: leak), it's probably better for the engine, esp. if you are in a colder climate. Down south, prob doesn't hake much difference. The 0 weight will only be that for starting. After warm up, it's going to start acting like 30 wt. That's why they starting making multi-visosity oils.
 
I have used M1 5-30 and the M1 filter ever since I purchased the Mark with 50k miles on it. With the Vortech SC installed, I will be running M1 5-20.

I still need to figure what to do when the ambient temps reach 25 degrees or lower during a cold start up. Vortech recommends a block heater or engine blanket. They say failure to comply may result in immediate SC failure.
 
Or you could go the cheap route and install a fuel pump switch and just "prime" the engine with a few rotations to build oil pressure.
 
J said:
Or you could go the cheap route and install a fuel pump switch and just "prime" the engine with a few rotations to build oil pressure.
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Or you could push the gas pedal down to the floor and try to srart (it will not start).
 
Max if you were using 5w-30 that's not the factory spec for Mark VIII's... Ford/Lincoln changed the factory spec in a TSB to 5w-20 a few years ago. I would also use Mobil 1 0w-40 in your C5, the LS1 likes thicker oils since it's a pushrod.
 
There has been some debate on the 20 versus 30. Keep in mind that climate can be a big impact. Even though our engines all reach the same temp eventually, I advise 30 in the hot states and 20 up north. The TSB appears to be more of a push to gain a mile or two for corporate fleet averages, although a thiner oil may lubricate better in these very tight spec'd engines.

On a side note: My 73 Mark IV had a chart and based on where you lived or temperatures expected one used the chart to select oil. There was even notes on oil to use for winter or summer and to change it for the season. Of course back then one changed it every 3k for sure so it was easier to switch oils around during the seasons.
 
I try not to join in on these "debates" because it a matter of personal opinion. Changing weights on your engine oil is probably the most menial thing you can do when worrying about something to fail. If you want to save your engines life, don't abuse it, don't rev it to 7k all the time, and stop putting regular gas in it and doing WOT blasts while the pinging is being drowned out by the loud exhaust.

I've ALWAYS ran the manufactures oil recommendations, but used quality oil and if something fails, its NOT because of the oil you use(BIG side note...unless that oil is PenzOil...I've seen some BAD things that PenzOil has done). The only engine failures I've had were from a bad connecting rod, old age, and overheating. I bet if you took the extra money you're spending on the high dollar oil and put it in a savings account, by the time the engine needs a rebuild, you'd have WAY more than enough to rebuild the engine.

For the most part....oil is oil. (yep, I said it!)
 
J said:
I bet if you took the extra money you're spending on the high dollar oil and put it in a savings account, by the time the engine needs a rebuild, you'd have WAY more than enough to rebuild the engine.
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In essence I agree - more due to the better maintenance program most people who use "high dollar oil" would utilize though than the math.

Given that it may cost $20 more than a generic oil change - in a 200,000 mile engine you would have 67 oil changes(based on 3000 mile intervals). That only equates to $1340 and it would be one helluva savings plan to have "WAY more than enough to rebuild the engine".
 
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