MP3 Factory Hook up.

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warthog5

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Don't know if anyone has seen this or not? I just ordered one, as I like my IPod.

I have a Pioner setup in my pickup that is cabled all together and can control the Ipod on the touch screen, but with the '98 MK VIII i want to keep the factory JBL sound system.

Here's what I found.

http://www.mp3yourcar.com/product_info.php?products_id=49

Note that with the factory CD changer in the trunk it calls for model # PXHFD1

If equipped with JBL, use PXHFD1 at Rear Control Unit in Trunk
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The IPod is now controlled by the JBL head unit in the dash.

PXDP.jpg
 
Which pioneer touch screen do you have? I'm going to be installing the 4000dvd soon, it's a double din unit. Any install tips for double in in the mark? I know it isn't a easy drop in.
 
I know this doesn't answer your question but I bought one of these on eBay, only 12 bucks and it works great. :)

FM Modulator......

IP-74.jpg
 
While a FM Modulator does work, they are not the best setup and subject to some different stuff. Like sound quality.

That is the route I thought I would have to go originally.

Then there is the cassette adapter that will have a bunch of wires sticking out of the dash.

The one I posed actually allows you to control the IPod remotely via the radio knobs/buttons.

Play the little Vid at this link for more info.
http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-10895_7-6262887-3.html

Remember the FM modulated unit doesn't charge the Ipod, so you must take it out at sometime to charge it.

The unit that I posted does charge the Ipod.
 
You're very right, but the sound quality that I've experienced(out of a stock radio) does just fine for me. :) I think it sounds better than the tape cassette adapter too. I just plug in the cig lighter through the FM modulator and it charges it.
 
To install a DD head unit in a gen 2 you have to trim the opening a little at the top. Its not hard at all, I just used a dremel and 2 minutes later the HU fit.
 
What powers the iPod? If it is a direct connection to your auto electrical system (cigar light adapter) beware. iPods were not designed with a power supply rugged enough to handle the adverse electrical environment in a car. You could end up with a burnt up iPod. I see this every day!

The best solution, while not the cheapest, is to use your Apple AC adapter and purchase a small DC to 120V AC inverter. The inverter will buffer and isolate the iPod from the electrical system.

I have NEVER seen an inverter using the Apple AC adapter combo damage an iPod in an automobile. Even if the inverter bits a big one, it can't get to the iPod, due to the AC adapter.
 
HOTLNC said:
What powers the iPod? If it is a direct connection to your auto electrical system (cigar light adapter) beware. iPods were not designed with a power supply rugged enough to handle the adverse electrical environment in a car. You could end up with a burnt up iPod. I see this every day!

The best solution, while not the cheapest, is to use your Apple AC adapter and purchase a small DC to 120V AC inverter. The inverter will buffer and isolate the iPod from the electrical system.

I have NEVER seen an inverter using the Apple AC adapter combo damage an iPod in an automobile. Even if the inverter bits a big one, it can't get to the iPod, due to the AC adapter.
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You're not connecting the iPod directly into the car's electrical system. I have the Peripheral unit -- if done properly, it splices into a constant positive and ground. The peripheral unit handles the charging; this includes preventing overcharging. I have an iPod kit in all 5 of my vehicles and 4 different iPods (2 nanos, 1 Touch and my wife has an iPhone) and I've never had any problems. In fact, Apple recommended the manufacturer of this kit, so they obviously think it's safe. :)

With that said, if done incorrectly with cheap equipment, you can overcharge and eventually kill the iPod -- I'd imagine this to be especially true with the $9 cigarette lighter chargers.
 
LLT said:
You're not connecting the iPod directly into the car's electrical system. I have the Peripheral unit -- if done properly, it splices into a constant positive and ground. The peripheral unit handles the charging; this includes preventing overcharging. I have an iPod kit in all 5 of my vehicles and 4 different iPods (2 nanos, 1 Touch and my wife has an iPhone) and I've never had any problems. In fact, Apple recommended the manufacturer of this kit, so they obviously think it's safe. :)

With that said, if done incorrectly with cheap equipment, you can overcharge and eventually kill the iPod -- I'd imagine this to be especially true with the $9 cigarette lighter chargers.
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Do you have Apple's recommendation is WRITING? If not, you could be disappointed to find out that the third party car charger kit voided the warranty when you walk up to them with a dead iPod in your hands and want warranty work.

The electrical problem I've seen with the charger kits is two fold:

1) The chargers can allow massive inrush current -- limited by the wire resistance. If you have a battery about to go end of life (over a year old), the resulting surge could fry the electronics used to charge the battery in the iPod. This is what kills cell phone a lot more than iPods!

2) The charger kits are not protected from voltage spikes. These spikes may exceed 50 volts during cranking/headlight operation. The spikes take out the FET (Field Effect Transistor -- used to regulate the voltage from12-16 volts down to 5 Volts) and they SHORT. Now you have lost regulation and you have the full car battery voltage applied to the iPod and puff -- no more iPod.

I also find it strange that iPod state on the back of their units that they are rated 5 to 30V DC. Ha! Why then are there so many iPods killed by a car's 12 ignition system, then? Apple refuses to discuss this with me, engineer to engineer.
 
I really think you're basing these rather passionate observations on the cheap Wal-Mart $<10 accessories. The one I've referenced is linked to from Apple's very own site ( http://www.apple.com/ipod/carintegration/ ) Further, I followed it up with an e-mail to Apple. They replied "Peripheral is an Apple approved accessory and will not void your warranty."

I'm not discounting your experience. I'm simply saying mine has been very positive. One of the nanos is connected 24/7/365 (unplugged long enough to sync) for 2 years now. The Peripheral unit regulates the charge quite well. When I do disconnect it, battery life is perfect and everything functions normally.

As with anything, I suppose YMMV. :)
 
LLT said:
I really think you're basing these rather passionate observations on the cheap Wal-Mart $<10 accessories. The one I've referenced is linked to from Apple's very own site ( http://www.apple.com/ipod/carintegration/ ) Further, I followed it up with an e-mail to Apple. They replied "Peripheral is an Apple approved accessory and will not void your warranty."

I'm not discounting your experience. I'm simply saying mine has been very positive. One of the nanos is connected 24/7/365 (unplugged long enough to sync) for 2 years now. The Peripheral unit regulates the charge quite well. When I do disconnect it, battery life is perfect and everything functions normally.

As with anything, I suppose YMMV. :)
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Actually, I'm basing this on 33 years of forensic experience with Electronic and linear AC adapters and past business with Apple.

But they obviously have a satisfied customer with you and that is great. I'm glad to see this.

Good luck, and I hope my prediction of doom and gloom does not come true for you.
 
All my friends have car kits of varying types for use with iPods and iPhones. Never an issue there also. I agree that the cig lighter adapters are not a great solution though. If electrical systems were THAT bad then why dont I blow out head-units?
 
unity said:
All my friends have car kits of varying types for use with iPods and iPhones. Never an issue there also. I agree that the cig lighter adapters are not a great solution though. If electrical systems were THAT bad then why dont I blow out head-units?
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Products that are designed for cars are hardened (operating voltage; storage temperature; high voltage spike protection, etc.)

Most portable DVD players are also assumed they will be used in an automobile and are hardened.

Products that are designed for car use are typically 12 volts units. Their operating voltages are from 10V to 16V. The exceptions appear to be some radar detectors (Cobra) and most GPS units. These products are typically 5 volt units. The GPS systems have hardened lighter adapters and mini USB power connectors. The GPS units are meant to be put in the windshield area while operating. They are not to be stored there (in the sun; car not running, where interior temperatures exceed 140 Degrees F.) That kind of temperature will do a number on a lithium battery!

The worst product to use in the car is the "well used" cell phone. That is a cell phone with 12 to 24 months of age on the battery. As these batteries age, they loose talk time, have increased charge time and try to "inhale" deeply when first plugged into an energy source for charging. This is called initial surge. A phone battery reaching its end of life may demand over 100 watts (about 20 amps) on initial surge. A typical OEM AC charger is limited to maybe 5 watts -- maybe an amp, if it's feeling strong. That battery can ask for 100 watts every charge night from that little OEM adapter and it will just laugh and shrug the high current request -- it can't supply that much.

Put that same battery on an auto adapter charger and watch out. The battery asks the charger for 100 watts and the car charger gives all it wants. Zap! that is one dead cell phone -- all because the battery was too old.

As a rule of thumb, if you want charge a well used cell phone battery with an auto charger, invest in a new cell phone battery before you plug it in.

This same kind of thing happens all the time when people take their cell phone on a trip. They have forgotten their OEM charger so they go to RadioShack and buy a universal battery charger and a special TIP that fits their phone power connector and sets the charge voltage. These chargers may be 10 to 100 times more powerful than their little OEM charger. And the first time they plug in their phone to charger -- Poof! One Dead phone and one pissed off RadioShack customer.
 
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If you look at the picture I posted, the little slot on the bottom is where the iPod cig adapter plugs in and charges it while I'm driving. I haven't had any problems, and if it broke I wouldn't care because its a Gen 1 and I got it for free. :)
 
unity said:
Ok... and here I though the new devices, including cell phone, used lithium ion batteries.
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Correct, most cell phones use Lithium ion batteries. And they wear out due to being charged every day/every other day. After 300 or 400 charge cycles, they show their age.
 
HOTLNC said:
Correct, most cell phones use Lithium ion batteries. And they wear out due to being charged every day/every other day. After 300 or 400 charge cycles, they show their age.
Click to expand...

Makes sense to me. Most batteries I use seem to be good for no more than about a year.
 
I depends on the number of charge cycles. If you charge it 10 times when it was at 90% each of those, then that is just one charge cycle. The more its plugged in, the longer the battery life. This was not true of older batteries.
 
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