RE: NEON TAIL LAMP 97/98
Hi Gang!
Sorry for the delay in providing the fix info, but my computer was giving me major problems and I finally got everything worked out.
NOTE: Before starting this project, read through below to see
what tools or supplies you'll need before beginning.
Following is the info for the Neon Tail Lamp fix:
1. Remove plastic push-in retainers on the underside of the
trunk lid that secure cosmetic cover (There is a tool
that removes them very effectively that is available from NAPA
parts for about $8.00)
2. Remove the cosmetic cover by sliding it down from the
latch and then up and out of the lower trunk lid supports.
This cover is a little fragile, so be careful and don't use
brute force when removing it.
3. Disconnect wiring harness to tail lamp and remove the ground
wire. The harness may also have a push-in retainer that
you may also have to remove.
4. Remove the two 7/16" nuts (black) and the push-in retainer
that hold the plastic strip on the left outside edge of the
trunk lid. Remove the strip by sliding it out of the trunk
lid. Do the same procedure on the right side of the trunk lid.
5. Remove the recessed (requires short socket extension) 7/16"
nuts that secure the tail-lamp to the trunk lip. Holes are
cut out in the trunk lid, and if you stick a finger in the
hole you will be able to feel where these nuts are. If
possible, use a magnetic socket or stick a small piece of
of masking tape in the socket to keep the nut from falling
down between the sheet metal layers of the trunk lid after it
is completely unscrewed.
6. Slowly and carefully remove the lamp assembly out of the
trunk lid and place it on a soft surface so as not to scratch
the lens.
7. Check all of the retaining screws for tightness where they
slide into the plastic retainers which are actually part of
the rear of the lamp housing.
8. Close the trunk lid. Take the lamp assembly and place it
partially into the trunk lip. "Eye-Ball" the holes where
the screws go through the trunk lip. Make note of what
adjustments need to be made to each screw; I.E>-up, down,
left or right for each screw to pass through the trunk lid
without binding. Also make sure that the lamp is centered
within the trunk lip for proper alignment.
9. Ream the holes in the trunk lip to allow each of the screws
to pass through without binding.
NOTE: The rectangular cut-out for the ballast unit in my
case was cut out properly at the factory. The holes for the
screws were not placed properly for the screws to line up.
Also, the foam gasket around the ballast unit should be
pliable enough to squeeze in when the lamp assembly is re-
installed and tightened at the end of this modification.
10. After ensuring everything is lined up properly, make up a
mixture of "J.B. Weld" (a half tube of hardener and glue
combined and mixed well). Apply with a tongue depresser or
other kind of tool to every screw where it mounts to the
rear housing of the tail lamp. Use a generous amount, but do
not let the mixture get higher than the base of the screw.
After this stuff sets (approx. 15 hours) it will be
tougher than the lamp assembly itself.
11. Dab a little bit of black silicone sealer at the base of
each screw and reassemble reversing procedures 1 though 6
above. "DO NOT" overtighten the 7/16" nuts! Just enough
to make them snug. Start from the center and work outward.
Observe the lamp assembly while tightening to check it's
relation to the trunk lid to ensure an even appearance.
This procedure worked out real good with my Mark and hope that it's a helper to other Mark owner's. ....Jack....
