New Battery?

S

steve

With "LOD" Since 1997
I have been telling myself for the past few months that I was going to proactively replace the battery in my mark because it is 5+ years on the replacement for the OEM one. However I procrastinated. So now on my 97 the battery light is lighting up on the gage. However the messages center says the voltage is ok and I did not check it with my meter yet. I am still on the original alternator with almost 130k. My guess is I need a new battery.

Any recommendations for a battery?
 
Optima red top. I never saw the need to spend the money on one of these in the past but after listening to how fast the starter turns over on my new car that has it and my friends 97 that has a red top I would definately go for it.
 
If your battery light came on, its NOT because your battery is dead/dying....it means your alt is going out. The message center shows the voltage of the system, NOT the voltage of the charging system. Make sure you get the alternator checked, or check it yourself with a volt meter.
 
J said:
If your battery light came on, its NOT because your battery is dead/dying....it means your alt is going out. The message center shows the voltage of the system, NOT the voltage of the charging system. Make sure you get the alternator checked, or check it yourself with a volt meter.
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Ditto on the alternator.

I don't know 'bout the Gen2s, but the Gen1 message center will not tell you anything 'bout the charging system until it is far too late.

I'll bet on a bad connection on the regulator at a minimum and up to and including a new alternator and battery at the worst.

Time to get that DVOM out. After the charging system is fixed, get the battery load tested.
 
I know when my battery light came on I didn't have more than a few minutes driving time before the car was dead. That was with no extra electrical draw also, no HVAC fan, no lights, wipers, radio, or window use. It sure can leave you stranded.
 
F the optimas... they are way overpriced. I would go with OEM Motorcraft... they last a very very long time, or you can go with China-Mart Batteries good deal.
 
95blklsc said:
I know when my battery light came on I didn't have more than a few minutes driving time before the car was dead. That was with no extra electrical draw also, no HVAC fan, no lights, wipers, radio, or window use. It sure can leave you stranded.
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Yea, I know, happened in another car I had. I drove at dusk with the lights off, went through a red light so I could make it home and avoid paying for a tow.

Good thing it is parked in my driveway and I am working from home 4 days a week. It will give me time to fix it.
 
driller said:
Ditto on the alternator.

I don't know 'bout the Gen2s, but the Gen1 message center will not tell you anything 'bout the charging system until it is far too late.

I'll bet on a bad connection on the regulator at a minimum and up to and including a new alternator and battery at the worst.

Time to get that DVOM out. After the charging system is fixed, get the battery load tested.
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Yea, I hope to get out at lunch time to test it, I was thinking the after 10 years and almost 130k the alternator is on its way out. Like I said this is my 2nd battery, I got the car new. However it was assembled in August of 96 (one of the first 2nd gens I guess) and I got it at the end of July 07. The first battery lasted 5 years, and this one is 5 years old.
So I may just replace it, and if it has been hooked up to a bad alternator it may be on its way out as well.
 
maxmk8 said:
F the optimas... they are way overpriced. I would go with OEM Motorcraft... they last a very very long time, or you can go with China-Mart Batteries good deal.
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I looked up in CR, the NAPA 84 Select 8465 battery got the highest overall rating and it is for our group. The wal-mart batter was right up there and was a good price. The Costco ones are a good price as well.
 
For the money, the Wal-Mart batteries are a good buy on a decent wet cell. I had one in my '93 before I got the Odyssey dry cell and ended up eventually putting it in the Mark VII.
 
Ok, went outside to get a quick measurement with the DMM.

Measured at the battery before I started the car, 12.XX V
Measured at the battery again after starting the car 14.XX V
Measured after putting on the head lights, flashers, Max AC and rear defoggers to put a load on, got 13.XX V.

It all looks ok, but the battery light is light still on gage cluster.

Should I give max at 5 star a call to get an alternator, or can I get god price on one locally at NAPA?
 
steve said:
It all looks ok, but the battery light is light still on gage cluster.
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The battery light is on because the current flow from the alternator is insufficient to maintain a charge. Continued driving will eventually deplete the battery.

Sounds like a diode in the alternator could be gone and/or a bad cell in the battery.

FLM(Max) or PA Performance are the best choices for our alternators.
 
maxmk8 said:
I would get a Ford Alternator... unless Napa carries Autolite (motorcraft)....
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I am wondering if it is the alternator or not yet. What other test can I try my self? I have to look further into the manual I guess later on.
 
driller said:
The battery light is on because the current flow from the alternator is insufficient to maintain a charge. Continued driving will eventually deplete the battery.

Sounds like a diode in the alternator could be gone and/or a bad cell in the battery.

FLM(Max) or PA Performance are the best choices for our alternators.
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It there a way i can test for either, or do i need to take them off and have them load tested at a shop/ parts store?
 
Most parts stores have stationary testers... others have free portable testers. Needless to say when my battery light went on in the Crown Vic... about 1 year ago I had it tested and they said everything was fine.

The light has been on since and I have not changed the alternator or drained the battery yet?!

Alternator puts out 14.XX volts so I am keeping it in for now.
 
maxmk8 said:
Most parts stores have stationary testers... others have free portable testers. Needless to say when my battery light went on in the Crown Vic... about 1 year ago I had it tested and they said everything was fine.

The light has been on since and I have not changed the alternator or drained the battery yet?!

Alternator puts out 14.XX volts so I am keeping it in for now.
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I think i will try the battery first since I knew it was coming due and was going to get a new one anyway. I will have the parts store test it.
 
Honestly a new battery is NOT going to turn that battery light off......

The voltage on the alternator tested fine, but the amps could be off too. Regardless of what is wrong with it, the tell tale sign is that the light is on because the alternator is malfunctioning. Also....check locally to see if you have an alternator/starter repair facility close by, they will rebuild it cheaper and better than buying another one, plus they will only fix whats wrong with it, instead of replacing everything. I've had starters and alternators fixed for 40 bucks or less at the place I use.
 
If a diode in the diode trio goes bad, what happens is the alternator 'leaks out' AC current and the 'push/pull' of the AC current along with the 14VDC output is what causes the alternator lamp to come on but still pass the DC voltage test.

But the alternator is not putting out 100% current capacity. In round numbers, if you had a 100 amp alternator, you now have a 67 amp alternator.

Load testing is the best way for both the alternator and battery.
 
driller said:
If a diode in the diode trio goes bad, what happens is the alternator 'leaks out' AC current and the 'push/pull' of the AC current along with the 14VDC output is what causes the alternator lamp to come on but still pass the DC voltage test.

But the alternator is not putting out 100% current capacity. In round numbers, if you had a 100 amp alternator, you now have a 67 amp alternator.

Load testing is the best way for both the alternator and battery.
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I skimmed in the manual real quick. It did say to load test the alternator to measure it with lights on, AC max, etc. What I did not do in increase the RPM to 2000 and check to see if the voltage goes up 0.5 V.

As soon as I am finished with work I am going to see if I can get a new battery. Regardless if it is the alternator, after 5 years and if it was being charged by a bad alternator I was going to replace the battery any way.
 
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