New Battery?
- Thread starter steve
- Start date
JP I think you got it. I started the car, and then took the ground off the battery. Car was running ok, as soon as a started adding a load to it the engine started to bog down, when I added a lot of load it staled.
The battery has a green eye and it is bright, so i think it has some life in it yet. The car was probably drawing from the battery under load and eventually would have worn it down I would have got stuck.
I called 5 star and they are only showing the 120A reman, no new ones. I thought the 2nd gens had 130A?
So any source on where I can get a new one?
Ok, found this one on line
http://www.pa-performance.com/display.asp?sku=14
But it is pricy then i have shipping to and then the core back. Should i be asking for a cobra one when i call 5 star? They wanted about $157 for the 120A reman, then shipping and then shipping back the core.
I wonder if that is the same one napa has listed for $239? I mean how manufactures are there out there?
http://www.pa-performance.com/display.asp?sku=14
But it is pricy then i have shipping to and then the core back. Should i be asking for a cobra one when i call 5 star? They wanted about $157 for the 120A reman, then shipping and then shipping back the core.
I wonder if that is the same one napa has listed for $239? I mean how manufactures are there out there?
Alternator - New
Click on image to see enlarged view
Back Right Side
Item#: NNE1N3116H
Price: $239.00
tax and shipping not included
Disclaimer: The stated price may vary from the in store price and may change at anytime.
Attributes:
Features & Benefitsremium Alternator With 100% New Component Parts; Electronics - Heavy Duty Rectifiers With 50 Amp Rated Diodes For Longest Service Life; Bearings - High Temperature Grease & Seals; Computer Tested Und
Amp Rating:130 Amps
Clock Position:1:00
Type of Pulley:6 Grooves
Type of Regulator:INT
Here's a quip from the EVTM descibing the charging indicator light circuit...
Charge Indicator
With the Ignition Switch in RUN, battery voltage is present at the Charge Indicator through Fuse 15.
If the Alternator is not generating power, the IC Regulator inside the Alternator grounds the Charge Indicator through circuit 904 (LG/R).
Current flows through Fuse 15, the Charge Indicator, and the IC Regulator to ground; the Charge Indicator illuminates.
When the Alternator is generating power, the IC Regulator inside the Alternator applies battery voltage to the Charge Indicator through circuit 904 (LG/R). With battery voltage present at both ends of the Charge Indicator, there is no current flow and the Charge Indicator does not illuminate.
With the Ignition Switch in RUN, battery voltage is present at the Charge Indicator through Fuse 15.
If the Alternator is not generating power, the IC Regulator inside the Alternator grounds the Charge Indicator through circuit 904 (LG/R).
Current flows through Fuse 15, the Charge Indicator, and the IC Regulator to ground; the Charge Indicator illuminates.
When the Alternator is generating power, the IC Regulator inside the Alternator applies battery voltage to the Charge Indicator through circuit 904 (LG/R). With battery voltage present at both ends of the Charge Indicator, there is no current flow and the Charge Indicator does not illuminate.
I have seen many batteries with a 'green eye' fail a load test but yours may still be OK. Make SURE the battery is fully charged when diagnosing the charging system. The best way is to trickle charge overnight and then load test it the following morning.
I would not get a remanufactured alternator. Been there, done that.
Now you could see if you could get the OEM alternator rebuilt at a reputable shop, but I have heard some OEM alternators cannot be rebuilt due to the diodes being integral with the case somehow but I do not personally know that to be true.
I don't think you need to return the core to PA Performance, I didn't. The alternator listed(Part # 1988) is the same I got but when I got mine it was rated 160A. I also got the upgraded power wire/fuse kit with the alternator.
I've heard the rumor PA Performance is not the manufacturer but a distributor for a nearby firm that manufactures them. Regardless, I've complete confidence in their alternators. As far as NAPA is concerned, if it is a NEW(not remanufactured) unit, it may very well be the same.
As far as new Ford OEM units go, in the past the pricing between the Mark VIII and the Cobra alternators have flipped back and forth, sometimes the Mark VIII is cheaper, sometimes the Cobra is cheaper. I recall them both being rated 130A.
With NAPA, Ford and most parts stores you will need to return the core, but again, that wasn't the case with mine from PA Performance.
With the price of the PA Performance is probely why you dont't have a core returen. So NAPA has 2 new and 3 remfd to pick fron on their web site. Only the remfd have core charge. The other new one is $314 comapred to the fist new one saw for $239. The remfd go from $166 to $234
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=11&SubCatId=2
I think i will just go get the NAPA new one for $239, it only 5 miles from my house. I am only looking to get 3 more years out of the Lincoln before i get a new car i think. But I may just run it into the gorund, who knows.
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=11&SubCatId=2
I think i will just go get the NAPA new one for $239, it only 5 miles from my house. I am only looking to get 3 more years out of the Lincoln before i get a new car i think. But I may just run it into the gorund, who knows.
I asked a gear head friend of mine if he knew of any shops around to referb it. Back in the day there were, but he don't know of any, any more. Plus i don't know the down time.
Things are expensive around here, doubt if I would get any pick-up or delivery for that price as well. I bet I would have to drop it off, pick it up and it would be more like $100 if I found a place.
You may be right....we have a lot of shops here in Cali, but it would be worth the call. Even at $100 and 1-2 days down time, in my eyes saving $150 is worth it. Like you said....you're working from home, so who cares about the down time. It will be a simple fix anyways...
Go here and look it up.....or tell us what city you live in. http://yp.yahoo.com/
Go here and look it up.....or tell us what city you live in. http://yp.yahoo.com/
I put a PA performance alt on my 95, I had so many issues with reman units and having mine rebuilt it was a joke. It puts out more amperage too because I no longer have low voltage problems at idle with the under drive crank pulley. They also look great in silver powder coat!
I am going to get a new one. My thinking is if I go to the trouble and have it repaired it is not much different then a reman. They will replace defective parts, but at my mileage what else will go on it down the road. I think I will go with the new NAPA one. IT is 130A, not like the ford reman 120A that they only stock now. It is close to my home or if I break down on the road and it is under warranty I can just bring it back to a NAPA store and not worry about shipping time back and forth.
I don't need the bling factor of powder coat, and on the 2nd gen i have the cover anyway.
The car still starts and runs, i just need to be carfull not to run it under a hevey load for a long time. With the warmer weather and the AC going it would be under laod with the fan going high speed.
:wave022: