New lighting toys....

[unity]

They are both lighting effects kits. One kit flashes the rear high brake light a few times. It features a function that "kills" the flash for 20 seconds after it does it once. This prevents constant flashing in bumper to bumper traffic. The other kit brings Gen II theatre lighting to my 96. This is something I have wanted for a long time. The kits come with all you need:

First the movies:

http://homepage.mac.com/unity/lightfx/MOV04423.MPG

http://homepage.mac.com/unity/lightfx/MOV04431.MPG


The brake light kit is VERY easy to install:

Locate the brake light connector:

Split just the green wire:

Red wire connects to the brake switch. White to the lamps. Black gets a quick-splice connection to the black:

Theatre lighting was a bit more challenging in the Mark. 96hotrodlincoln (on LvC) was nice enough to provide me with the schematics. I happen to hit the nail on the head in the first attempt:

Two harnesses need to be tapped for this one. One on the left and lower right:

The one on the left gets the "ignition on" tap first. This is so when you turn the key the lights dim right away. Book says W/P but mine was purple with orange stripe:

Next you need a 12 volt+ source. Orange harness wire to yellow kit wire:

Now you need a ground (black to black) and power to head to the interior lights which is black with light blue stripe to red on the kit:

Finished:

 

[warthog5]

You didn't? Then I see you did.

Wire nuts do not belong on ANYTHING that moves. A house doesn't move and they are fine there. But not in a car or boat.

Replace them with crimp/shrink style butt connectors. Not the automotive butt connectors. They allow moisture to get into connections. I don't even have any of the automotive style stuff in my shop.

Heat Shrink Butt Crimp Connectors
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* Made with adhesive-lined Heat Shrink material.
* When properly crimped and shrunk, provides a seal that is resistant to water, steam, salt and other contaminants.
* Also known as heat shrink butt splices.
* Provides improved pullout strength and strain relief.
* All Heat Shrink Butts are UL and CSA approved.

I like these wire taps better than the regular Scotchlocks too.

A male spade terminal goes on the other wire to plug in with.

 

[warthog5]

I would actually use these, but they are hard to find for most people.

Note the Blue stripe. The barrel on that end is designed for a 14ga ware and the other end is designed for a 10ga wire. 2- 14ga wires fit fine.

These are for smaller gage wires and do the same thing.

 

[unity]

Ya. I should replace them. I know that but did not think of it. The kit came with them and I blindly used them.

 

[warthog5]

The kit came with them and I blindly used them.

Manufactures do that all the time. Make a product and then send the cheapest a$$ crap to hook it up with. I just throw it in the trash and go to my drawers.

This is just part of it.

I also only use tinned copper ends for large cables. No plain copper. They corrode.

 

[unity]

Glad you mentioned this. Thanks!

 

[That One Guy]

I have a similar flashing kit for my motorcycles. Never thought about installing one on the Mark. Good idea.

 

[J]

I've had the brake light flasher on my mark for about 2 years now, very neat. I also bought the sequential lighting but never got around to installing new sockets to make it work.